Whimsical and graceful in the typical Hermès style, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune and Arceau Le Temps Voyageur are both unusual takes on familiar complications; the two were incidentally conceived with the aid of Chronode, a complications specialist.

Hermès has reworked the palette for both models, most notably with a two-tone case for the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune. This returns as a set of three watches, each featuring a dial made of a specific type of meteorite, namely Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech. All three are housed in a 43 mm case with contrast-colour lugs.

The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, on the other hand, is offered separately in two guises: 41 mm in white gold, or 38 mm in rose gold with diamonds.

The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune three-piece set

Initial thoughts

Among Hermès’ whimsical complications, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune stands out as an unconventional and interesting reinterpretation of the simple date-and-moon-phase watch. Unlike traditional moon-phase displays, this employs mobile counters that orbit the dial over a 59-day cycle to reveal the current lunar phase. It’s a large watch and a little thick, but still elegant thanks to the design.

The new variants look more modern than their predecessors thanks to the two-tone cases and meteorite dials that sport subtle colour accents that are typically Hermes. The main downside is the fact that the three are delivered as a set, which not only means the cost is high – the set retails for €251,000 – but also owning three of the same watch.

A subtle winged horse motif is found the upper moon, modelled on the Pegasus scarf by Hermes designer Dimitri Rybaltchenko

The Le Temps Voyageur is arguably more practical as a watch with its dual time display, but it still keeps things interesting with the orbital register that shows local time. The new variants are less striking than the L’Heure de la Lune trio, but the larger men’s model stands out with its white-and-blue palette.

Double moon phase

The L’Heure de la Lune is housed in the brand’s signature Arceau case that’s defined by asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs. It features a dual moon-phase display that simultaneously indicates the moon in the Northern and Southern hemispheres, with the age of the moon displayed by the positions of the two rotating sub-dials indicating the time and date. Mounted on a central carousel, the two sub-dials make a full rotation over the course of nearly two months.

The set is made up of three watches — Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech — each named for the type of meteorite used for the dial. Blue Grey Moon is distinguished by a genuine fragment of lunar rock, Vesta incorporates a piece from one of the solar system’s largest asteroids, while Erg Chech features an authentic segment of the eponymous meteorite that landed in the Algerian desert region of the same name.

The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune is powered by the H1837, a Vaucher automatic calibre fitted with the “L’heure de la lune” module developed by Chronode, the Le Locle specialist founded by Jean-François Mojon. The movement offers 40 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).

Travel time

The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is available in two variants, each available separately. The larger men’s model has a 41 mm white gold case, while the smaller ladies’ model is 38 mm and rose gold. While different in style and size, both versions of the model feature the “Planisphère d’un Monde Équestre” motif on the dial, an Hermes scarf design that shows a map with continents named after equestrian terms.

The model is equipped with a sophisticated travel time complication that displays home time on a 24-hour scale indicated in the aperture at noon and local time on a mobile counter. The watch also incorporates a world time function with a cities ring representing the 24 time zones. A tiny red pointer on the periphery of the mobile counter points to the current time zone on the cities ring.

This is also driven by the same H1837 made by Vaucher, but equipped with another module of Chronode. The dual time function is controlled by the pusher at nine o’clock.

Key facts and price

Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune
Ref. Blue Grey Moon
Ref. Vesta
Ref. Erg Chech

Case diameter: 43 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k white gold; 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: H1837
Functions: Hours, minutes, date and double moon phase
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 12 sets 
Availability: At Hermes boutiques and retailers
Price: €251,000 excluding taxes (sold in a set of three)

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
Ref. Or blanc
Ref. Or rose et diamants

Case diameter: 41 mm or 38 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k white gold; 18k rose gold set with diamonds
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: H1837
Functions: Hours, minutes, and second time zone with city indication
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Hermes boutiques and retailers
Price: €37,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Hermes.com.