As is tradition for F.P. Journe, the unique creation made for the most recent Only Watch has now evolved into a regular production watch, the Chronomètre Furtif, that has the same dimensions and movement, but an entirely different material and style.

The Chronomètre Furtif is striking, all-black sports watch that is almost entirely in tungsten carbide, a hard and strong material typical used for tooling. The furtif, or “stealthy”, aspect is enhanced by the tone-on-tone fired enamel dial in dark grey with laser engraved markings that are primarily visible to the wearer.

Initial thoughts

The Chronomètre Furtif is expected because of the Only Watch edition that came before it – and because Francois-Paul Journe has talked about it – but it is novel amongst F.P. Journe watches for the all-black look. That said, it is still recognisable as an F.P. Journe as it inherits many elements from the lineSport.

In the hand, the Chronomètre Furtif is almost entirely black at many angles, though the mirror-like dial is highly reflective. And it is impressively heavy at some 250 g, though it sits well because the case is wide and flat.

But most of all, the low-key look is arguably all the more appropriate given the fame of the maker and the desirability of his watches. At this moment in time I would absolute love a furtif F.P. Journe rather than a highly recognisable model like the Elegante or Chronomètre Bleu.

The cal. 1522 inside

Stealth and l0w-key

The Chronometre Furtif retains the proportions of the Only Watch piece, with a large 42 mm that is a thin 9.5 mm in typical F.P. Journe style.

The case and bracelet are almost entirely tungsten carbide, a material that’s a combination of tungsten and carbon that is employed mostly for industrial applications due to its toughness and hardness. The tungsten carbide of the case and bracelet is coated with a hard coating for better scratch resistance, which also gives it a matte black finish.

But in an echo of the Only Watch edition that was all tantalum, this has the case back, case bumper, bezel ring, and crown in tantalum.

The dial is fired enamel that’s dark grey, almost black. It’s enamelled over a white gold base and then laser engraved to create matte markings that contrast against the mirror enamel surface. As a result, the dial markings are only visible at arm’s length to the wearer.

The cal. 1522 inside is unchanged from the movement found in the Only Watch version. It’s a manual-wind calibre descended from the movement of the Chronometre Souverain, but equipped with twin functions on the back. One is the power reserve located at 12 o’clock, while a moon phase sits at six o’clock.

Like all mechanical F.P. Journe movements, the cal. 1522 has its bridges and base plate in 18k red gold. Unlike other F.P. Journe movements, the cal. 1522 has a centre seconds, a first for the brand, thanks to a linearly arranged gear train that’s visible on the back, which allows for a directly-driven central seconds.

Key facts and price

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif
Ref. CF

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: Tungsten carbide with case back, bumper, bezel, and crown in tantalum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Unavailable

Movement: Cal. 1522
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve and moon phase
Winding: Manual
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 56 hours

Strap: Tungsten carbide flat-link bracelet with tantalum clasp cap

Limited edition: No
Availability: At F.P. Journe boutiques and retailers
Estimate: CHF85,000 before taxes

For more information, visit Fpjourne.com.