Urwerk refines its entry-level offering with the UR-100V Magic T Hunter Green that showcases a metallic ash green dial matched with a sandblasted case and bracelet. Entirely in titanium, the new UR-100V is sleek, matte, and lightweight. The new model remains mechanically identical to the standard UR-100V, and retains the distinctive satellite disc hour display, where the hour indicator advances along a curved 120-degree track graduated for 60 minutes.
Initial thoughts
Building on the ongoing expansion of the UR-100V series, the Magic T “Hunter Green” adopts the same sanded, shot-blasted titanium case as the original Magic T — but now rendered in metallic ash green. Though the new model has more contrast, it still retains the muted, low-key aesthetic found on the all-grey original.
While the model itself has appeal, Urwerk has arguably introduced too many iterations of the UR-100, each distinguished by only subtle variations, since the model’s debut in 2019. This has made the model line confusing, and leaving each individual edition less distinctive.
As with other UR-100 models, the “Hunter Green” is an entry-level model in the Urwerk catalogue and priced CHF58,000, or a third of the recent flagship UR-230 Polaris. This and other UR-100 models provide enthusiasts with the chance to experience Urwerk’s signature complication and advanced case making at a relatively accessible price.
While it is a value proposition in terms of exotic, Swiss-made independent watchmaking – but there are low-cost lookalikes emerging from online-only startup brands that are reduce the novelty of the Urwerk design and mechanics.
Restrained green
Apart from the green finish, the “Hunter Green” remains identical to the original Magic T in dimensions, thickness, and movement. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and not too long, the UR-100V is compact and one of the most wearable Urwerk models, even on a bracelet. Though the bracelet adds to the overall mass, it remains lightweight as the bracelet is titanium and made up of fairly slim links.
The principal complication is Urwerk’s signature satellite-disc hours that’s a modern take on the historical wandering hours complication. This is driven by Urwerk’s proprietary display module that is mounted on a Zenith Elite automatic as the base movement. Like the other variants of the UR-100, the base movement is also upgraded with a “turbine” winding mechanism to regulate the pace of automatic winding.
Key Facts and Price
Urwerk UR-100V Magic T Hunter Green
Diameter: 41 mm Height: 14 mm Material: Titanium Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: UR 12.02 Features: Satellite hours and minutes; Earth’s rotational and orbital distance on the periphery Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 48 hours
Launched in late 2023, the Tourbillon Cardan marked Greubel Forsey’s pivot to more classical watchmaking, away from the sports watches that defined it for several years.
Staying true to its speciality, the Tourbillon Cardan is a fancy tourbillon: it’s equipped with an inclined, high-speed tourbillon making one revolution every 16 seconds, with the tourbillon suspended in a pair of cardan, also as a universal joint or gimbal, similar to the suspension used in marine chronometers. The set-up swivels the tourbillon back and forth as the carriage makes it 16-second rotation, which theoretically optimises the position of the balance wheel while the watch is on the wrist.
Initial thoughts
The Tourbillon Cardan is classic Greubel Forsey in many ways, bringing to mind the various exotic tourbillons the brand has released over the years. The watch is big, huge in fact, but stands out with engaging visuals thanks to the multiple motions of the gimballed tourbillon. There’s a lot to see on the open dial, which is not only complex and dynamic but also offers an appealing depth.
The depth is a consequence of the thickness of the watch, which is substantial – over 18 mm high with the crystal, necessary to accommodate the tourbillon. Despite the size, the watch is lightweight as the case is titanium, but it still feels chunky but that’s almost expected for a Greubel Forsey. The compact Nano Foudroyante EWT, on the other hand, is atypical of the brand.
Though the colours are monochromatic, the watch is striking on the wrist due to the mechanical complexity on show. The tourbillon moves on multiple axes and fairly quickly, so it offers a lot of dynamism even at a glance.
The reason this watch exists is for the tourbillon, but does the gimballed regulator offer any timekeeping advantages? And does it perform better than any of Greubel Forsey’s past tourbillons?
There are no concrete answers but I think there is some merit in the idea. Greubel Forsey hasn’t publicly revealed any data for the chronometric performance of the Tourbillon Cardan, but the brand does have an accomplished record in terms of chronometry. Moreover, I know that Stephen Forsey takes such things seriously, so I believe the claim that the gimballed construction does help chronometry, although I don’t know if it is advantageous to a degree that goes beyond past tourbillon movements.
Overall, the cardan concept seems a little less natural than Greubel Forsey’s prior innovations; it feels a little like the brand was trying to complete an invention to signify its pivot away from sports watches. In fact, I wonder if this might have been originally conceived as a sports watch before being launched in a classic case.
That said, the Tourbillon Cardan is an impeccably executed watch in all tangible terms, as is expected of Greubel Forsey, and the enormous case has a surprisingly pleasing presence on the wrist in spite of the size.
Swivelling joints
Might the Tourbillon Cardan have been a sports watch? It is 46 mm wide and 18.15 mm tall including the highly domed crystal (minus the crystal it’s 13.81 mm), dimensions that are similar to those of Greubel Forsey’s sports watches. Even the case is titanium, the default material for its sports line.
But it is not a sports watch, and instead presented in a classical case with a simple but fine finish that’s brushed on the flanks and polished on the top and bezel. The case style is reminiscent of the Hand Made 2, except much bigger (and not hand made, but presumably hand finished).
The size of the case is not merely vanity; it needs to accommodate the large movement. The height of the movement comes from the tourbillon and its multiple axes, as well as the mainspring, which is likely thick as it needs to power the tourbillon, gimbals, and still maintain an 80-hour power reserve.
The tourbillon construction is an interesting one. At its heart is an inclined tourbillon, raised 30° from the horizontal that makes a high-speed revolution of once every 16 seconds. This constantly changes the position of the balance wheel, theoretically eliminating most, maybe all, of the timing errors caused by gravity.
The inclined tourbillon is in turn contained in a pair of gimbals, each set at right angles to the other. Each gimbal swivels backward and forwards every 48 seconds, moving by 60° degrees each time, in a soothing motion.
A key feature of the gimbals is that they are under power. Traditional gimbals in a marine chronometer are freely-pivoted and conceived to keep the chronometer level regardless of a ship’s motion. Zenith attempted a gimballed tourbillon in the past, but it was essentially a miniature replica of a marine chronometer configuration and freely-pivoted.
In contrast, the Tourbillon Cardan has the tourbillon regulator driving the gimbals, which means energy from the mainspring flows to the tourbillon, and then onto the gimbals in order to drive the swivelling motion.
This is surely energy intensive, and explains the large mainspring. And it is also less efficient since the additional gears and pivots generate more friction in the movement. These disadvantages, however, are presumably overcome by the gimballed oscillator. Leaving aside technical nitpicking, the action of the gimballed tourbillon is visually impressive – which is perhaps the most important characteristic of a watch like this – and I believe also chronometrically sound.
A sketch of the gimballed tourbillon. Image – Greubel Forsey
The height of the case is a necessity because of the tourbillon, but it has the upside of creating tremendous vertical volume on the dial. This accentuates the architecture aesthetic that is synonymous with Greubel Forsey.
The hour and minute hands are elevated high above the plane of the dial, slightly higher than the tourbillon in fact, which requires an extended gear train that might less efficient but looks much more compelling. Additionally, the hands are anchored by an arched, polished bridge that shows off the requisite finishing while emphasising the height of the time display.
Even though the colours on the front are muted, the depth and intricacy of the dial mean it is far from plain. The finishing and resulting textures are familiar, being essentially identical to that on other Greubel Forsey watches, but more expansive due to the space on the dial.
The main plate is frosted as is convention, while most of the steel parts are mirror polished. The steel components of the tourbillon, namely the gimbals, carriage, and outer frame, are especially impressive.
The view from the back is trademark Greubel Forsey. A large, three-quarter plate finished with frosted covers most of the back, with a large opening to accommodate the lower bridge of the tourbillon.
The engraving around the lower tourbillon bridge refers to the “8th Invention” as the gimballed tourbillon is the eighth of Greubel Forsey’s “Fundamental Inventions”
The lower bridge takes the form of a stylised “X”, but more impressive than its shape is the finishing, which is black polishing and anglage all around. The space visible through the “X” bridge also reveals how much volume the tourbillon occupies, even within the large case.
While the movement is largely modern in style and form, it incorporates traditional details as is Greubel Forsey’s habit. One of the most obvious are the gold chatons for the jewels that are varied in size, making them a little more interesting visually. The largest jewel and chaton is for the barrel, while the jewels for the going train are several sizes smaller.
Key facts and price
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan Ref. P00753
Diameter: 46 mm Height: 13.81 mm (18.15 mm including crystal) Material: Titanium Crystal: Sapphire Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Tourbillon Cardan Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve Winding: Manual wind Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) Power reserve: 80 hours
Strap: Vegan leather with titanium folding clasp
Limited edition: 55 pieces with production is limited to 11 per year Availability: At Greubel Forsey retailers and direct from the brand Price: US$550,000
