Urwerk is best known for its all-black, sci-fi watches, so the UR-230 Polaris departs from the norm. Cased in white ceramic composite, the UR-230 Polaris incorporates several advancement in terms of materials: the white case is milled from a proprietary fibreglass-reinforced ceramic that is more resistant to impact than conventional ceramic. Notably, the material was developed in-house according to Urwerk.

Initial thoughts

Although Urwerk has introduced many iterations of the UR-210/220/230, the Polaris is arguably the most interesting to date because of the material. It retains the familiar design of the series, but represents an achievement for Urwerk with the proprietary ceramic-fibreglass composite. The fact that Urwerk is going beyond complications and case design is laudable.

The composite addresses one of the weakness of pure ceramic, which is vaunted for its durability and immunity to scratches – that very hardness makes it fragile. Dropped onto a hard surface, for instance, ceramic may crack or break. Moreover, such damage is impossible to repair, making case replacement necessary (and inevitably expensive).

The UR-230 Polaris is more expensive than the other models in the series that sport conventions case materials. The higher price is arguably justified considering the new material, although if this new material makes its way into more affordable Urwerk models, then the material would lose some of its novelty.

Satellite complication

Fibreglass-reinforced ceramic is closer to carbon fibre composites than ceramic. It is actually made up of sheets of ceramic interwoven with fibreglass that are placed within a polymer solution, then baked to set the material. The result is a solid block that can be machined into the case.

The case is 44.81 mm by 53.55 mm in diameter and 18.38 mm in thickness, making it similar in size to the rest of the UR-2XX series. Because of the layered nature of the case material, it has a nuanced surface that goes from matte to slightly shiny.

According to Urwerk, the black-and-white livery was inspired by the aesthetic sensibilities of Stanley Kubrick’s landmark sci-fi film, 2001: A Space Odyssey, as well as the Apollo 11 lander that was clad in white heat-resistant ceramic tiles.

The white case, paired with a white strap, contrasts with a nearly all-black Urwerk UR-7.30. The movement features the brand’s signature revolving satellite complication, paired with a retrograde minutes indicated by an open-worked hand in aluminium with a white-painted tip.

In addition, the UR-7.30 also features a newly developed shock absorption system that takes the form of a “turbine” that protects the movement from impacts.

The calibre also incorporates a second set of turbines, here as an “air brake” mechanism that regulates the speed of the automatic winding according to the wearer’s activity level. Found in several past Urwerk movements, the turbine winding is controlled by a small circular knob on the case back.

Opposite this is another symmetrically positioned knob that fully disengages the rotor, transforming the movement into a manual wind calibre. Two indicators on the dial, symmetrically positioned at one and 11 o’clock, display the current settings of both functions.

Key facts and price

Urwerk UR-230 Polaris

Case dimensions: 44.81 mm by 53.55 mm
Case height: 18.38 mm
Material: Fibreglass-reinforced ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UR-7.30
Features: Hours and minutes; air brake system for winding regulations; automatic winding on/off indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Vulcanised rubber strap with Velcro fastening

Limited edition: 35 pieces
Availability: Now at Urwerk retailers
Price: CHF150,000 before taxes

For more, visit Urwerk.com