Highlights: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Phillips Hong Kong
Historical, futuristic, and everything in between.
Having covered independent watchmaking and metiers d’art highlights at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now look at timepieces that aren’t wristwatches.
The Hong Kong sale is a two-part affair: a theme sale focused on timepieces of Japanese origin christened Toki, and the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Both include a notable number of pocket watches and clocks across the spectrum of style and periods, from an iconic Cartier Model A mystery clock in rock crystal to the Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch.
The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX.
TOKI lot 60 – Breguet digital jumping hours pocket watch
This uncommon Breguet pocket watch with a two-tone case was sold in 1926 to a certain Mitoui T.K. for the sum on 16,000 French francs. This was a period when Breguet was making few timepieces, making watches from this era, especially complicated ones, relatively uncommon.
With elegantly angled cutouts for the hour and minutes, the jumping hour display makes this watch a rarity. Similarly displays were found on wrist- and pocket watches of the time, including the Cartier Tank à Guichet.
This particular piece does not bear the classic Breguet style, like the coin-edged case band or engine-turned dial. The style, however, is typical of the 1920s, though the two-tone case makes it unusual.
This watch was made in France, since this was produced well before the brand’s move to the Swiss Vallée de Joux in the 1970s.
The white-and-pink-gold 45 mm case was crafted by Verger Frères, a renowned Parisian jeweller of the Art Deco era, while the classically styled movement was almost certainly a Swiss ebauche, like practically all Breguet pocket watches of the period.
The estimate for this two tone pocket watch is HK$150,000-320,000 (US$19,200-41,000).
TOKI lot 62 – Patek Philippe ref. 834 split-seconds chronograph
The ref. 834 is rare, this yellow-gold example is only the second specimen of the reference ever offered at auction. Sold in 1966, the model is relatively recent, compared to the majority of complicated Patek Philippe pocket watches.
The year of casing and sale explains the three-part stepped case, the rectangular pushers, and angular pendant – a “modern” look found on Patek Philippe pocket watches in the second half of the 20th century.
The cream dial is especially appealing and like many vintage chronographs features colour-coded hands: gold for time telling and blued steel for the chronograph. The baton indices and oversize minute numerals further enhance the dial design.
The movement inside was made in 1908, over 50 years prior to the casing and sale of the watch. Unsurprisingly, it has a classical architecture and fine decoration that was hand applied.
The slim springs, polished chronograph works, fully jewelled horizontal clutch, and steel-capped column wheels (one for the chronograph and a second one for the split seconds mechanism) are all signature elements found in classic Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph calibres.
This particular ref. 834 was previously part of the Watch Museum VOGA Antique Collection, a timepiece museum established Toshio Masui, a respected Japanese dealer in vintage watches who passed away not too long ago.
The piece was well-cared for, which accounts for the great condition. The estimate for the Ref. 834 is HK$120,000-240,000 (US$15,400-30,800).
TOKI lot 59 – A. Lange & Söhne minute repeating perpetual calendar
One of the most intriguing pieces offered in this auction, this Lange masterpiece dates to 1911 and is one of only seven such watches known. This large, 46 mm hunter-style pocket watch combines a perpetual calendar and minute repeater, making it among the most complicated German watches of the era.
The densely laid out dial in white enamel has a German calendar and employs both black and red print for clarity. The Breguet numerals and Louis XV-style hands make for a refined, old-school appearance. The ornate dial style and the hunter case is suggestive of the period’s top-of-the-line German watchmaking. This was clearly an expensive, luxurious watch when it was produced.
Compared to the high-grade Swiss timepieces of the period, the movement looks relatively plain, with restrained gilt bridges and blued screws instead of polished steelwork and Geneva waves. But make no mistake, the “1A” class movement inside was of the highest quality offered by Lange at the time and is a classic example of high-end German watchmaking. In typical German style, the going train and strikework are covered by a three-quarter plate.
The balance wheel has a diamond endstone, a hallmark of Lange’s best movements, while the balance cock is engraved in the typical German style. Note that the escapement is crafted from gold and the anchor is of the Glashütte type with no ruby palettes. This particular watch was adjusted by Hugo Müller, a German watchmaker which was preoccupied with improving the Glashütte escapement.
This unique pocket watch was consigned by a Japanese collector and like many watches from the country, it is in excellent condition, and includes a 2016 certificate from the German Watch Museum. This important piece of German horology has an estimate of HK$630,000-1.30 million (US$80,800-167,000).
HKWA lot 1023 – Robert Cart Chronoscope Jumping Hour
Although not a household name, Swiss watchmaker Robert Cart patented several movement inventions in the early 1900s, including a jumping hours display. Dating to the 1930s, this piece which features Cart’s jumping hours in an Art Deco-style case and dial.
The pocket watch is representative of the era, when watches were as much fashion accessories as full-timekeepers. The small format and Art Deco styling indicate this was perhaps a dress watch for formal occasions.
The square case is small at 36 mm by 36 mm but finely made in white and yellow gold. The open worked dial employs an arrow-shaped ruby to indicate the minutes with a cutout for the jumping hours at 12 o’clock. The printed Breguet numerals complement radial geometric pattern on the dial.
The Chronoscope is powered by a Vacheron Constantin ébauche with Cart’s jump hour module on top.
The estimate for the Chronoscope is HK$64,000-128,000 (US$8,200-16,400).
HKWA lot 1021 – Cartier La Pendule Écran Art Deco Table Clock
Cartier is one of the most storied jewellers of all time. It has produced goods ranging from watches and clocks to lighters and ashtrays.
Modelled on the form of a Chinese folding screen, this clock is typical of Cartier’s prowess in blending different styles and cultures in a lavishly executed desk clock, illustrating the jeweller’s style of the Art Deco period. The table clock combines Art Deco and Chinese influences, reflecting the chinoiserie fad of the time.
The clock liberally employs varied precious materials, from jade and yellow gold to mother-of-pearl and kingfisher feather mosaic. The latter is a traditional Chinese decoration technique, echoing the chinoiserie theme.
The piece is powered by a Longines eighth-day movement, wound and set by a key cleverly concealed in the clock’s base. The base is also signed “Cartier, Paris, Londres, New York” — the three original outposts of the brand, each led by one of the three Cartier brothers.
The table clock is estimated at HK$640,000-1.28 million (US$82,100-164,000).
HKWA lot 987 – Patek Philippe ref. 725/2 “American” perpetual calendar
Dating from 1951, this Patek Philippe ref. 725/2 is modernist through and through, from the clean dial to the case shape with an arched “bell” pendant. In 18k yellow gold, the case has a 46 mm diameter and a slim profile.
The pocket watch bears many of the elements that are associated with mid-century Patek Philippe dress watches. Many elements continue on its modern-day timepieces, namely the cream dial, small seconds and the fine lines of the case.
This is noteworthy for its linear perpetual calendar, also known as an “American” due to the format of the calendar display that reflects American norms. In-line perpetual calendars are rare even today, being considered more complex than conventional perpetuals with multiple sub-dials.
The movement inside is Victorin Piguet ébauche, completed, decorated, and signed by Patek Philippe.
Accompanied by an archive extract, the estimate for this ref. 725/2 is HK$220,000-440,000 (US$28,200-56,400).
HKWA lot 978 – Richard Mille RM020 AI RG
Very different compared to the other pocket watches in this story, the RM020 is rare and uncommon even by Richard Mille standards, due to in part to the niche appeal of pocket watches, particularly amongst collectors of modern timepieces. Sold relatively recently in 2020, this example is one of a limited series of five.
Describing this as a pocket watch is an understatement, since the RM020 is clearly a statement watch that is both heavy and large. The case retains the proprietary bezel screws on the bezel, but in an oblong rose gold case instead of the tonneau shape typical of the brand.
The watch is remarkable as a reinterpretation of the traditional pocket watch and takes full advantage of its large form factor. The case measures a generous 52 mm in width by 62 mm in length.
The movement inside runs for 10 days on two barrels and features a tourbillon regulator. Its main plate is machined from a carbon nanofiber composite, reflecting of RM’s employment of advanced materials for both the case and movement. The movement also has a small power reserve indicator on the dial at nine, but the tiny pointer looks out of proportion compared the very large hands for the time.
The RM020 is accompanied by both a titanium chain and a titanium stand to hold the watch in a vertical, slightly tilted position, turning it into a table clock. The estimate for this iconoclastic modern pocket watch is HK$600,000-1.20 million (US$76,900-154,000).
HKWA lot 910 – Cartier Modèle A mystery clock
One of Cartier’s most famous historical timepieces are its mystery clocks that feature “floating” hands that seeming turn by themselves, with no apparent connection to a movement. Cartier built a series of ultra-luxurious table clocks with mystery indicators in the first half of the 20th century, which are today amongst the most valuable Cartier timekeepers.
Mystery clocks rely on hands mounted on transparent glass disks with concealed toothed rims that are driven by a conventional movement hidden in the clock’s base. This 1929 example is a Model A, perhaps the best known mystery clock design that is compact but hefty.
Like all mystery clocks of the period, this was executed in precious materials from top to bottom. The upper portion is transparent tock crystal, while the base is onyx. The numerals and hands are set with diamonds, while the chapter ring and frame are inlaid in mother-of-pearl.
The onyx base contains an eight-day movement signed “European Watch & Clock Co. Inc.” that was made by LeCoultre and modified by Cartier to accommodate the mysterious display, which speaks to Cartier’s watch- and clockmaking mastery at the time.
Notably, original workshop drawings of this particular Model A are documented in the reference book The Cartier Collection: Timepieces by Franco Colongi and François Chaille. The clock is accompanied by a fitted presentation box and the original numbered winding and setting key.
HKWA lot 871 – Patek Philippe minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and split-seconds chronograph ref. 850
Another highly complicated pocket watch by Patek Philippe, the ref. 850 is a fine minute-repeating split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar. This is a classic example of a complicated Patek Philippe pocket watch, which blends refined aesthetics with watchmaking prowess.
This was originally produced in 1911 but remained unsold and was eventually upgraded with a perpetual calendar and moon phase in 1963, then sold in 1967.
The modern, angular shape of the 56 mm case is suggestive of Patek Philippe’s design of the period. The dial has an unusual layout, with the 30-minute counter and date indicator co-axial in the 12 o’clock register.
The complexity of the original movement and its subsequent modification make this ref. 850 a noteworthy watch from an engineering perspective. The movement inside is finished in classical Patek Philippe fashion to the highest spec of the era: a large free-sprung bi-metallic balance with a Breguet hairspring, a fully jewelled horizontal clutch, and a proprietary split-seconds mechanism.
This watch has been in a private collection for over 30 years, having been last sold in 1991 at Sotheby’s. The estimate for this appealing grand complication pocket watch is HK$800,000-1.60 million (US$103,000-205,000).
Preview and auction
The sale and preview exhibition will take place at Phillips Hong Kong in the West Kowloon Cultural District.
Preview
Open daily November 16-24, 2024 from 11:00 am-7:00 pm
Auction
November 22 – 2:00 pm (TOKI lots 1-115)
November 23 – 2:00 pm (HKWA: XIX lots 801-920)
November 24 – 2:00 pm (HKWA: XIX lots 921-1031)
(All times are local to Hong Kong, GMT+8.)
G/F WKCDA Tower
Cultural District
8 Austin Road West
Kowloon, Hong Kong
The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX.
This was brought to you in partnership with Phillips.
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