Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong
From Kikuno to Habring2.
Independent watchmaking has been important in the auction space for some time now, both in terms of repute and value. The recent Geneva auctions, for example, saw a new record set for the most expensive timepiece made by an independent – over US$8.32 million with fees for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité prototype “15/93”.
Now as the auction season moves to Hong Kong, we bring you some of the interesting examples of independent pieces watching up going on the block at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction on November 22-24. It’s a two-part event: first Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional sale of varied offerings.
The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX.
TOKI Lot 111 – Masahiro Kikuno Tourbillon 2012
Part of the TOKI sale are timepieces crafted by Japanese independent watchmakers. One such piece remarkable is this unique wristwatch with a tourbillon regulator from Masahiro Kikuno, a low profile but talented craftsman.
An up-and-coming independent watchmaker, Masahiro Kikuno is one of the youngest members of the AHCI. The auction debut for Mr Kikuno, the present wristwatch was firstly presented at Baselworld 2011, along with a similar one encased in silver.
The watch is unmistakably hand made and original in many respects, ranging from the fluid 18k gold case to the patterned dial to the movement architecture. Although executed in the traditional way, the movement has an unusual construction, both on the front and back.
A large three-quarter-style plate covers much of the movement, including the barrel, while the bridge supporting the tourbillon has an elegant outline evocative of Swiss timepieces made in the Jura valley. The herringbone striping on the bridges departs from the classic Geneva waves and gives the calibre an interesting twist.
The off-centred dial overlaps the tourbillon slightly. Interestingly, the tourbillon itself is not very visible, with the large, sculpted steel bridge hiding most of the cage. This approach makes it feel like the tourbillon regulator was intended to only be glimpsed, rather than admired in detail.
The proceeds from this unique wristwatch will go to Mr Kikuno to help fund his future creations. The watch has an estimate of HK$200,000-400,000 (or US$25,600-51,300).
TOKI Lot 21 – Habring² Felix “Shellman 50th Anniversary”
Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² needs little introduction. The husband-and-wife-led brand produces great value-focused timepieces.
The brand builds almost all its offerings on the A11, a proprietary movement developed by Habring² that borrows from the architecture of the robust Valjoux 7750. The A11 is entirely engineered and produced independently by Habring² and its suppliers, making it a notable offering in the affordable-indie segment, where outsourced movements are the norm.
The Felix is the entry-level model in the Habring² catalogue. This is a special Felix, however, numbered “1” out of 20 made for the Japanese watch retailer Shellman’s 50th anniversary.
The simple 38.5 mm watch has a silvered sector dial with a champagne tint, a railroad minute track and baton indices. Because of the A11 movement inside, the small seconds is placed at nine o’clock, giving the watch some vintage charm. The A11B is straightforward but dressed up and neatly finished with circular brushing and blued screws.
Habring² has gained quite a following in Japan, thanks in part to Shellman, its longtime retail partner. The limited edition series (which also included a chronograph) was a fitting homage to the relationship. This special edition Felix has an estimate of HK$40,000-80,000 (US$5,100-10,300).
TOKI Lot 20 – Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor
Laurent Ferrier is arguably most respected for its first two calibres, which were elaborately constructed and finely finished. This particular example is one such early watch with the second movement launched by the brand. It was produced in 2016 to commemorate the 110th anniversary of Japanese retailer Kamine, and is one of just three made.
The watch features all the traits that defined the brand’s original style Ferrier watches. The 40 mm stainless steel piece is the classic galet design with fluid lines, while the dial is a bright white grand feu enamel with applied Breguet numerals.
Inside is the FBN229.01, which the most appealing micro-rotor movement on the market for some time. The caliber is extensively finished across a classic architecture that incorporates modern elements.
A particular trait of the movement is the double-wheel direct impulse escapement in silicon that’s inspired by the Breguet natural escapement. Along with the free-sprung balance and Breguet overcoil hairspring, it makes for a movement that’s arguably a high performance chronometer.
This marries traditional watchmaking with modern technology, presented in an appealing design. The estimate for this special Galet Micro-Rotor is HK$160,000-200,000 (US$20,500-25,600).
HKWA Lot 993 – F.P. Journe Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante LineSport
Arguably the most storied living independent, François-Paul Journe has built both a brand and diverse collection over time. One of the more unique collections in F.P. Journe’s repertoire is the LineSport range of sports watches, but sports watches conceived by a watchmaker trained in classical horology. As such, LineSport models are unlike most sporty timepieces and incorporate the brand’s signature design elements, while boasting interesting movements.
The most interesting LineSport watch is undoubtedly the split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph with big date, which also happens to be one of the better value buys in high-end rattrapante watches.
The 44 mm watch is entirely in titanium, with an almost-tonneau case matched with rather narrow integrated bracelet. This is a second-generation model that does away with the rubber inserts on the bracelet and case.
Apart from the dark hue and red “S” emblem of LineSport, the dial is classical Journe, with its signature typeface and hands, along with sub-dials with screwed frames.
The cal. 1518 inside is a manually wound movement that can trace back its lineage to the mono-pusher chronograph designed by Mr Journe during his days at THA.
For the titanium LineSport model, the movement plates and bridges are crafted from aluminium, in order to reduce the weight of the timepiece. The use of aluminium in movements is highly unusual, but suggestive of Mr Journe’s unique vision and approach.
The piece is offered with its box and guarantee. The estimate is HK$550,000-900,000 (US$70,500-115,000).
HKWA Lot 858 – Voutlainen 28SC-SB “Art Deco”
While the signature Voutilainen look is familiar, this “28” is quite different from the rest of the brand’s offerings. The typically subtle Voutlainen style is replaced by strong Art Deco lines that define both the case and the dial.
The engine-turned dial features two distinct, deeply-cut patterns that create a richly coloured sector layout in gold and brown. The dial is devoid of any markings, save for the “Hand Made” inscription at six o’clock. Voutlainen’s bi-metal “observatory” hands match well with the colourful dial.
The Art Deco style is even more prominent on the 38.5 mm case with its prominent flared lugs with a seashell-like fluting. These contrast heavily with the discrete teardrop lugs most commonly found on Voutlainen watches. Notably, the case is crafted from “sustainable” stainless steel that is made from recycled alloy.
Inside is a variant of Voutlainen’s Vingt-8 caliber modified to accommodate an indirect central seconds. This sports decoration done in the customary exquisite quality of Voutilainen, which comprises frosted gilt bridges with beveled edges and internal angles, as well as black polished steel parts.
The calibre retains the chronometer-oriented features like the oversized balance and Voutlainen’s own take on the Breguet natural escapement. The large free-sprung balance is paired with a hand-formed Philipps overcoil hairspring containing a Grossman inner curve that is rare and particularly difficult to form.
This exceptional piece is estimated at HK$550,000-1,00 million (US$70,500-128,000).
HKWA Lot 898 – Konstantin Chaykin Panda piece unique
Konstantin Chaykin’s success with the original Joker of 2015 propelled him into the ranks of well-known independent watchmakers. The Russian watchmaker has since launched many and varied models featuring the “rolling eye” time-telling display.
One variant is the Wristmon Panda, a tongue-in-cheek reference to the Rolex Daytona Paul Newman “Panda” ref. 6239 that is playful combination of old and new, East and West. It features a panda face on the dial that was adopted from the World Wildlife Fund logo designed in 1961 by the English ecologist and artist Peter Scott.
The panda theme extends beyond the dial, with the upper lugs crafted from carbon fibre to form panda ears. Five letters engraved on the bezel spell “panda”, adding to its self-indulgent playfulness.
Inside is a Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G200 base movement updated with Chaykin’s in-house Joker module, with the crown at six o’clock between the lugs.
This is estimated at over HK$90,000 (or US$11,000). Part of the proceeds from the sale of this watch will be donated to the Albert Hausammann Foundation, a charity that funds watchmakers’ education in Asia.
HKWA Lot 939 – Daniel Roth Retrograde ref. C127/2127
One of the early independent watchmakers, Daniel Roth produced a number of notable and unique designs over the course of his career. Along with his tourbillon and perpetual calendar, the Retrograde was a staple of his early pieces, most of which were inspired by Breguet.
Clearly inspired by Breguet and perhaps George Daniels’ retrograde tourbillon pocket watch, the Retrograde features a classical styling,. The intersecting hour, minute, and seconds scales are brushed with engine-turned borders while the dial is finished with vertically linear guilloche, a pattern that became a signature of the brand.
The trademark Daniel Roth double-ellipse case is in platinum and measures 35 mm by 38 mm. Inside is a Lemania cal. 27 LN with an added proprietary module for the retrograde indication. The system is not the one employed by Daniels’ but rather resembles mechanisms found in high-grade 18th century clocks.
According to Phillips, the serial number 22 places this early in the brand’s production, probably around 1991. This appealing Retrograde is estimated at HK$80,000-160,000 (US$10,300-20,500).
HKWA Lot 973 – Pascal Coyon Chronomètre Series 1
Pascal Coyon is not as well known as most independent watchmakers, although his work is high quality.
The stainless steel example of his signature model is numbered “9” of 20 pieces. Pascal Coyon made 60 Chronomètre Series 1 movements: 20 each in yellow gold gilt, pink gold gilt, and rhodium, like the present example.
The white lacquered dial has an attractive railway chronometer design, with printed Breguet numerals and a small seconds at six o’clock.The watch was produced in France, as indicated by the “Fab. En France” below the seconds.
The manual wound movement behind the dial is the cal. 1900B. Although based on the Unitas 6498, the movement has been modified to resemble vintage pocket watch calibers, with curved shapes, slim bevels, and finger bridges.
A notable element is the snail micrometer regulator, which was partly inspired by old Zenith precision calibres. The watchmaker’s attention to detail and finish is apparent in the perlage applied to the barrel bridge under the winding click.
The watch is accompanied by a chronometer certificate from the Besançon Observatory dated 2017. The chronometer certification is also indicated on the movement with the famous’s “viper head” hallmark on the base plate.
Preview and auction
The sale and preview exhibition will take place at Phillips Hong Kong in the West Kowloon Cultural District.
Preview
Open daily November 16-24, 2024 from 11:00 am-7:00 pm
Auction
November 22 – 2:00 pm (TOKI lots 1-115)
November 23 – 2:00 pm (HKWA: XIX lots 801-920)
November 24 – 2:00 pm (HKWA: XIX lots 921-1031)
(All times are local to Hong Kong, GMT+8.)
G/F WKCDA Tower
Cultural District
8 Austin Road West
Kowloon, Hong Kong
The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX.
This was brought to you in partnership with Phillips.
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