Having been acquired by Breitling’s private-equity owners last year, Universal Genève is scheduled to officially come back to life in 2026. But ahead of its revival in two years, the brand has unveiled a trio of one-off vintage remakes, the Polerouter SAS Tribute.

Commemorating the 70th anniversary of the inaugural Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight across the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, the three watches are modelled on the Polerouter, a watch created especially for the pilots of SAS. Notably, the Polerouter was designed by the late Gérald Genta when he was just 23 years old.

The SAS Tribute is made up of three unique watches, one each in stainless steel, 18k white gold, and 18k red gold, with the white gold example slated to be sold at Phillips in May 2025 with proceeds going to a Geneva arts school. The remaining pair will be retained by Universal Genève as part of its archive and will not be offered for sale.

Initial thoughts

The Polerouter trio are essentially faithful remakes, right down to the new-old-stock cal. 1-69  micro-rotor movement inside, but with dials in modern colours and finishes. While drawing inspiration from the vintage design, they look modern.

The trio isn’t particularly imaginative, though it will appeal to fans of the brand’s vintage watches. Such remakes aren’t enough to revive a Universal Genève, though the brand’s attention to its historical models will be appreciated by enthusiasts. Whether or not Universal Genève Universal Genève can successfully translate an eye for vintage design into commercially viable products will be apparent in 2026.

A faithful tribute

Available in either stainless steel, 18k white gold or 18k red gold, the Polerouter sized like the vintage original at 35 mm in diameter and 9.95 mm in thickness, though its modern construction means a water resistance of 50 m. Notably, only the white gold model is paired with a matching, bracelet made by Laurent Jolliet, a Swiss jewellery bracelet maker.

Each example is fitted with a dial modelled on the vintage original. The dial centre varies according to the watch: black for rose gold, white for stainless steel, and blue for white gold. All three dials have chapter rings decorated with milled guilloché and plated to match the case metal. Interestingly, the dials all feature the modern Universal Genève logo but the historical SAS logo.

All three watches are powered by the self-winding, micro-rotor cal. 1-69, hidden under a solid back. The thinnest movement in the world at time of its launch, the cal. 1-69 beats at 18,000 beats per hour, and offers 57 hours of power reserve.

Key facts and price

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute
Ref. JU6910 (18k white gold)
Ref. RU6910 (18k red gold)
Ref. AU6910 (stainless steel)

Diameter: 35 mm
Height: 9.95 mm
Material: 18k white gold; 18k red gold; stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 1-69
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 57 hours

Strap: 18k white gold bracelet; black calf-skin leather strap

Limited edition: Each a piece unique
Availability: Only white gold example will be sold at Phillips in May 2025

For more, visit universalgeneve.com.

The Middle East’s largest luxury watch retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, has just announced the debut of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) in Dubai, starting with a dedicated CPO salon and followed by offerings online. Kicking off with several million dollars of inventory, Rolex CPO cements family-run Seddiqi’s status as one of the world’s leading Rolex retailers.

While Rolex CPO in most countries is associated with recent models, Seddiqi’s CPO programme aims to go beyond that and also offer watches of interest to enthusiasts. The CPO line-up, including rare gem-set as well as vintage models, has been curated by members of the Seddiqi family, including chief executive Mohammed Seddiqi.

“[CPO] not only enhances our overall offering but also creates an exciting new platform for watch enthusiasts to pursue their passion for exceptional timepieces,” says Mr Seddiqi, “[And] providing them with a certified pathway to acquire elusive and rare timepieces.”

As is the norm for Rolex CPO, each watch at the CPO salon has been serviced and certified by Rolex. As a result, all watches will be accompanied by a CPO guarantee card and two-year warranty.

The CPO salon will open November 29, 2024 inside the Rolex boutique in Wafi Mall, followed by CPO offerings on Seddiqi’s online store in early 2025.

The fabled Breguet no. 160 “Marie Antoinette” (pictured above, image credit Baruch Coutts) was made for the last queen of France, but was so complicated that it took decades to complete, by which time the queen was long dead. Stolen in 1983 and then recovered in 2007, the legendary watch started by Abraham-Louis Breguet will be on display for the first time outside of the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art In Jerusalem since its recovery.

From December 12, the Breguet Marie Antoinette will be on show at the Science Museum in London (which is also home to important George Daniels creations, including the unfinished watch and the Space Traveller II). The Breguet Marie Antoinette is  part of Versailles: Science and Splendour, an exhibition dedicated to the scientific and technology discoveries related to the French royal court in the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibition explores a 120-year span of scientific progress at Versailles, illustrating the scientific endeavours accomplished during the reigns of Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI.

The mythical watch

While the exhibition will include over 100 exhibits, watch enthusiasts will know the highlight is Breguet no. 160, the grand complication commissioned in 1783, reputedly by Marie Antoinette’s lover. A no-expense-spared commission, watch no. 160 was only completed in 1827, having been delayed by A.-L. Breguet’s exile during the French Revolution. By the time of its completion, Marie Antoinette had been executed in 1793 during the revolution, while A.-L. Breguet himself had died in 1823.

With a movement made up of over 820 components, the Marie Antoinette watch boasts a dozen compilations, including perpétuelle automatic winding, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, equation of time, independent seconds, power reserve indicator, and thermometer. The Marie Antoinette was so complex it cost multiples of the next most-complicated Breguet ever made, watch no. 92 made for the Duc de Praslin. The Marie Antoinette remained the most-complicated-watch-ever for decades, until the 20th century.

The dial of the Marie Antoinette. Image – Breguet

Starting December 12, 2024, the exhibition runs until April 21, 2025. Tickets are priced at £12, while children aged 11 and under can enter for free.

Versailles: Science and Splendour
Open daily to the public
10:00 am-6:00 pm
December 12, 2024-April 21, 2025

Science Museum
Exhibition Rd, South Kensington,
London SW7 2DD, United Kingdom

For more information, visit Sciencemuseum.org.uk.