In a departure from its usual modern designs, Carl F. Bucherer’s latest is the Heritage Worldtimer. Modelled on a typical 1950s world time wristwatch, the Heritage Worldtimer sports two crowns — on at three to set the time, another at nine to adjust the cities disc.

The A2020 movement inside, however, is a modern creation. The automatic calibre features a peripheral rotor, an invention that dates to the 1950s but was only perfected in the 21st century. However, the calibre comes with a caveat: it’s not a true world time complication, and instead relies on just a rotating cities disc.

Initial thoughts

Tried-and-tested vintage-inspired reissues are often easy wins so they are common. While the Heritage Worldtimer might seem like one of those on its face, it stands out on several counts, including the simple fact that vintage-inspired world-time watches are uncommon.

The design is also vintage inspired, rather than a remake of a specific watch, so it has a generic 1950s feel rather than looking like a scaled-up version of a vintage watch. And the novel, modern movement is a useful complement to the historical design.

Though the watch is looks like a world time, it is not actually a world time complication. In other words, the hour hand does not move in tandem with the cities disc as on an actual world time. Rather it is a time-only watch with a rotating cities disc that does the job of indicating time zones, but it is not sophisticated in terms of mechanics.

Starting at about US$8,000 in steel, the Heritage Worldtimer is acceptably priced considering the base movement, but would have been much better value at a higher price, perhaps US$10,000-12,000, but with a genuine world time complication.

24 time zones

The Worldtimer has suitably compact proportions for the vintage styling. The slightly tonneau-shaped case is 39 mm in diameter and 10.25 mm high. It’s mirror-polished on top and satin-brushed on its flanks. Like famous historical world time watches, it sports two crowns, one to set the time and the other to rotate the cities disc.

The stainless steel model is available with a sun ray-brushed dial in silver or black, while the rose gold variant gets only a silver dial – all featuring a 24-hour ring and cities disc in the same colour.

The various dial styles share the same design and details, including engraved baton markers that are plated to contrast with the dial finish, along with retro-style typography.

Although the dial design is vintage style, it incorporates several modern touches. The cities representing the 24 time zones have been updated, “Beijing” replaces “Peking” for instance, and the brand logo has been replaced with the current emblem.

Inside is the CFB A2020, which is essentially the A2000 movement with a world-time module on top. The A2000 was introduced 15 years ago as the first mass-produced movement with a peripheral rotor.

Though slightly less efficient than a full rotor, the peripheral rotor offers unobstructed view since the rotor takes the form of a narrow ring sitting around the edge of the movement.

Decorated with Côtes de Genève on its bridges, the movement is COSC-certified and equipped with a free-sprung balance wheel. It offers 55 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).

Key facts and price

Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer
Ref. 00.10805.03.13.01 (rose gold with silver dial on a textile strap)
Ref. 00.10805.08.33.21 (steel with black dial on a steel bracelet)
Ref. 00.10805.08.33.01 (steel with black dial on a textile strap)
Ref. 00.10805.08.13.21 (steel with silver dial on a steel bracelet)
Ref. 00.10805.08.13.01 (steel with silver dial on a textile strap)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.25 mm
Material: Rose gold or stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: CFB A2020
Functions: Hours, minutes, and worldtimer
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Black textile strap or stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: 88 pieces for the rose gold model, steel version is regular production
Availability: Now at Carl F. Bucherer boutiques and retailers
Price: US$7,900 for stainless steel on a strap; US$8,400 for stainless steel on bracelet; US$14,900 for rose gold on strap

For more, visit carl-f-bucherer.com.

Correction October 27, 2024: The world time function is only a rotating cities disc, and not a “true” world time complication.

For the Singapore retailer’s 70th anniversary, Zenith debuts the Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.

In a first for the model line, the limited edition combines a big date and flyback chronograph, while the case and integrated bracelet are in sandblasted titanium for a clean, monochromatic aesthetic.

Initial thoughts

Best known for the landmark El Primero high-frequency chronograph movement, Zenith also jumped on the fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches with the Defy Skyline. The angular case and polygonal bezel bring to mind other designs, but like other Zenith offerings, the Defy Skyline is appealing because it’s well priced and equipped with a solid movement.

The Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is no exception. In fact, it’s one of the best looking iterations of the model with its all-grey look. Even though the colours are muted, this iteration of the Defy Skyline stands out.

Priced at 22,200 Singapore dollars (about US$17,000), the Sincere edition is priced competitively for what you get, which includes an El Primero calibre with extra complications.

El Primero

The Sincere edition has the signature Defy Skyline design of a dodecagonal bezel, angular case with oversized pushers, and an integrated bracelet. The case and bracelet are sandblasted to a smooth matte finish, resulting in a striking, deep grey tone.

The titanium case is 42 mm in diameter and 47.4 mm lug-to-lug. Despite the seemingly large case, the Defy Skyline is wearable due to the short lug-to-lug distance, while the titanium construction makes it lightweight.

The sunburst, satin-finished dial is metallic grey and stamped with a star pattern inspired by the Zenith emblem. The edge of the dial plate is dodecagonal, echoing the shape of the bezel. It has two counters, along with a two-disc big date display at six o’clock that jumps at midnight in under 0.03 seconds.

Beneath the see-through sapphire case back lies the self-winding cal. 3652, a second-generation El Primero movement. It offers 60 hours of power reserve and beats at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz).

Unique to this edition is the Sincere logo printed on the underside of the case back, just above the bi-directional, star-shaped rotor.

Key facts and price

Zenith Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
Ref. 97.9500.3652/01.I001

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: El Primero 3652
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, big date and fly-back chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Matching titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 70 pieces
Availability: Now at Zenith boutiques and retailers
Price: 22,200 Singapore dollars

For more, visit zenith-watches.com.