Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet.

Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery.

Initial thoughts

Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand.

The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750.

But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action.

The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound movement. The result is a case that is just 12 mm in height, including the sapphire crystal.

At launch, I criticised the Maxigraph’s case back for its unnecessary engravings, which detracted from the vintage theme. So it was nice to see a simpler case back with subtle engravings that look far more period-correct.

Priced at just CHF3,950 before taxes, the Type 10 is around 15% cheaper than its predecessor, which was already an interesting value. While the Maxigraph’s regatta timer was more interesting, the Type 10 nonetheless offers an atypical layout for the chronograph registers, giving it a differentiated aesthetic among its peers.

Imaginary past, real future

While it’s difficult to establish a trend from just two data points, a product strategy for Albishorn appears to be emerging. The brand’s website currently lists the Maxigraph under the heading “Water Collection” and it seems safe to assume that the Type 10 is the start of an “Air Collection.” I’ll leave it with the reader to guess what form a third collection might take.

Setting aside what the future might hold, the Type 10 is available now in two liveries – classic black and Sihlwald, a green named after a forest in the canton of Zürich. The Sihlwald variant is further distinguished by red chronograph hands and a bronze crown.

Both dials feature a heavily textured finish that reminds me of asphalt. This is probably my least favourite element of the watch, since it detracts from the instrument-like aesthetic of the rest of the watch. The hands and dial markers are coated in Super-LumiNova in a shade that mimics patinated radium.

Inside the Type 10 is the ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph with a monopusher conveniently located at the 9:30 position on the case. While a flyback function would have more closely related the watch to the Type 20, the red monopusher is nonetheless visually distinctive and ergonomic.

Another interesting element of the movement is the chronograph operating indicator at 12 o’clock that is inspired by similar functional indicators on aircraft clocks. The Maxigraph offered a similar indicator, so we might see this on other Albishorn watches in the future.

Key facts and price

Albishorn Type 10

Diameter: 41.7 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: ALB02 M
Features: Hours, minutes, chronograph, and chronograph operating indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available directly from Albishorn beginning October 21 at 9:00 am EDT
Price: CHF3,950 before taxes

For more, visit Albishorn-watches.ch.

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module.

Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish.

Initial thoughts

Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection.

The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre.

Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000).

Vintage styling

The Endeavour Chronograph is an unusual deviation from the Moser’s usual design philosophy, due in part to the fact that it was conceived together with William Massena of Massena Lab, the maker of collaborative editions.

It’s modelled on vintage Moser pocket watches, and also mid-20th century chronographs in general. The symmetrical “Compax” dial has twin registers with small seconds at three and a 45-minute counter at nine.

On the dial’s periphery is a tachymetric scale, while the 19th century Moser logo sits under 12 o’clock. To match the vintage aesthetic, the Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands is in a faux-vintage cream hue.

Though the design is not the usual Moser, the dial has the brand’s familiar fume finish. The “funky blue” dial is a deep metallic blue in the centre, but darkens to black on the edges.

The case is also standard Endeavour with flowing, recessed flanks. It measures 41 mm in diameter and 13.3 mm in thickness. Due to the chronograph module, the case is thicker than the average Moser, which is apparent on the wrist, though the case has been constructed to minimise the height.

The Endeavour Chronograph is powered by the HMC 220, which is the in-house HMC 200 automatic calibre plus a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module under the dial.

The movement beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers three days of power reserve. Finished with Moser stripes of alternating width, the movement features the a Straumann hairspring that’s made by Moser’s sister company.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie x Massena LAB Endeavour Chronograph Compax
Ref. 1220-1200

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 220
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: Brown kudu strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. retailers and online boutique
Price: CHF25,000

For more, visit h-moser.com.