MB&F is well known for its ability to consistently produce timepieces that are as much sculpture as technical marvels. In its latest collaboration, MB&F leans heavily on the artisanal side of watchmaking, with a dose of literary influence.

Executed by the namesake master engraver, the MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” is a limited series of eight unique pieces, each depicting a scene from famous novels, ranging from The Three Musketeers to Moby Dick.

Initial thoughts

Making such an ornate watch usually requires some compromising in terms of time telling, often the makers favouring a wide painted or engraved dial over visible handsets. The LM Split Escapement ‘Teddy Jaquet’ series somehow manages to keep all the sub dials, which feature a date and power reserve indicators, along with MB&F’s trademark exposed and elevated regulating organ. These elements are kept without taking away from the main show piece, which is the dial plate. 

Beyond the timekeeping qualities of the pieces, each model can be seen as a true and multifaceted work of art that just happens to be wearable. It all comes at a price, however – CHF158,000 – almost double the cost of a standard LM Split Escapement.

A quiet master engraver

While not a widely recognised name, Eddy Jaquet was actually one of the original “friends” of MB&F since the brand’s early days. Back in 2011, he hand-engraved the names of Kari Voutlainen and Jean-François Mojon on the first Legacy Machine calibres. 

The Neuchâtel-based engraver’s talent however extends well beyond elementary name engraving. In 2020, MB&F unveiled the first series of eight unique pieces engraved by Mr Jaquet, with each watch bearing a scene from Jules Verne’s novels.

A reader’s perspective

Now the collaboration continues with eight literary-inspired creations. This time the pieces don’t follow one sole author, but rather the larger theme of young fiction.

The following novels served as inspiration: Robinson Crusoe by Daniel Defoe, The Three Musketeers by Alexandre Dumas, The Last of the Mohicans by James Fenimore Cooper, The Jungle Book by Rudyard Kipling, The Call of the Wild by Jack London, Moby Dick by Herman Melville, Treasure Island by Robert Louis Stevenson and Robin Hood (anonymous).

This timeless classics were for many perhaps the first serious literary experiences — making their transposition into unique timepieces all the more endearing. The titles were selected by Mr Jaquet from a list of 15 suggested by MB&F. The choices reflect the artisan’s favourite childhood reads which, as it usually happens, remained strong in his memory. 

The engravings themselves are done on a white gold plate and are a mesmerising sight. Each piece pictures a scene from the iconic novels without drawing from existing art. Each drawing was imagined by Mr Jaquet after rediscovering the books, making them all the more unique.

Most MB&F watches are very expressive and open worked to an extent, which doesn’t leave much space for an engraver to properly exploit. That’s why the LM Split Escapement (SE) was chosen as a base, since its relatively uncluttered face with small sub-dials makes for a great canvas. 

The standard LM SE was tweaked such that the engraving would be most visible. The dial plate itself was made wider than usual, which prompted changes in the case dimensions, namely a slider bezel and a flatter crystal. At the same time, the date and power reserve sub dials were made into rings rather than full circles.

Moreover, each sub-dial is lacquered black rather than white, leading the eye towards the engraved dial plate below. Black sub-dials are unusual for the Legacy Machine series, only having been employed once in the LM1 “Longhorn” prototype.

Legacy Machine 1 “Longhorn” with black sub dials

Plenty of detail

Mr Jaquet’s mastery and skill is apparent in many ways. Each engraving conveys the gist and atmosphere of its associated novel in an oddly convincing way. Kipling’s lively and faceted jungle is expertly represented, as are Dumas’ musketeers and Dafoe’s shipwrecked hero. The three-dimensional nature of the engravings makes the scenes tangible — much like any reader sees a word beyond the flat pages of a book. 

The engravings are done to such an amazing detail that each piece is delivered with a loupe, so the owner can properly appreciate the art work. Jaquet’s fine skill is apparent in the subtle nuances engraved in the metal, such as the animals’ fur or the texturing in the musketeers’ moustaches and beards. 

Each dial plate is fully covered by thick engraving, save for a small place reserved for the Master engraver’s unobtrusive signature. Because the plates are actually part of a watch, there were some constraints in their thickness and build. The back part of the plate is not even, having grooves and cutouts which accommodate the various dial-side components of the LM SE movement. 

Some plate portions have a 1.15 mm thickness while others measure only 0.35 mm, which meant Mr Jaquet had to work with increased caution and exceedingly light touch. The trick was to not compromise the aesthetic composition while also keeping an eye on the plates’ integrity. 

The LM SE “Eddy Jaquet” is mostly identical to the standard model, save for minor tweaks to accommodate the reworked bezel and engraved dials. The large stainless steel case measures 44.5 mm by 18.2 mm, with a flatter sapphire crystal that is less domed than the standard LM SE, since the crystal had to be adapted to the slimmer bezel.

It is powered by the LM Split Escapement “engine” movement designed by Stephen McDonnell, which, when viewed from the display back, bears striking resemblance to the McDonnell-designed LM Perpetual calendar (which we covered extensively). 

The movement runs for 72 hours on two barrels unwinding in parallel. Elevated above the dial, the free-sprung balance features a Breguet hairspring and beats at a leisurely 2.5 Hz. The rhodium-coated movement features the high finish expected from MB&F, such as Geneva waves, bevels, internal angles, and gold jewel settings.

Key Facts and Price

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet”

Diameter: 44.5 mm
Height: 18.2 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Split Escapement movement developed by Stephen McDonnell
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, power reserve indicator
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator leather strap with white gold folding buckle

Limited edition: Eight pieces
Availability: At MB&F retailers and MAD Galleries
Price: CHF 158,000 excluding VAT

For more, visit MBandF.com.