H. Moser & Cie. has often injected humour into its watchmaking and does so with its latest collaboration, a pair of watches conceived with micro-brand Studio Underd0g. Presented a box set of two watches, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavor Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are designed around the same theme, namely passionfruit.

Each watch, however, reflects the respective brand’s signature characteristics and price point. The Moser is a perpetual calendar with an in-house movement and fired enamel dial, while the Studio Underd0g is a Sellita-powered chronograph.

Initial thoughts

The collaborations in horology are sometimes uninspiring and dull. While MoonSwatch may be a commercial hit, or was a hit, it is precisely what one would expect from Swatch and Omega. However, the fruity duo from Moser and Studio Underd0g manage to be different, while retaining the brands’ respective identities.

This is also one of the instances where a box set isn’t made up of repetitive or redundant watches. Though similar in colour, the two watches are substantially different, particularly in tactile feel. The owner can choose to wear either for different occasions or even gift one (probably the chronograph).

Priced at CHF59,000 for the pair, the passionfruit editions are good value considering what would sell for individually. The Studio Underd0g would probably cost about CHF3,000, with the Moser accounting for the rest of the price, which is comparable to the regular production Moser perpetual calendar.

Fruit-flavoured

Retaining its signature minimalistic style, Moser’s creation is encased in a mirror-polished steel case that measures 42 mm in diameter.

As is often the case with Moser’s special editions, the highlight is the dial. The two-layer dial is made up of a purple-lacquered, sunburst-brushed base that is topped by a “maracuja yellow” grand feu enamel disc. The enamelled disc is sold 18k yellow gold and finished with a hammered texture that is visible through the translucent enamel.

Though this is a perpetual calendar, the display is in Moser’s trademark minimalist style. A tiny green hand in the centre indicates the months of the year, the big date sits at three o’clock, while the leaf-shaped hand at nine o’clock is the power reserve indicator.

The rest of the calendar indications are on the back, with the leap year display positioned on the barrel bridge of the manual-wind HMC 800. Offering seven days of power reserve, the movement features hacking seconds, double barrels, and Moser’s own Straumann hairspring contained within its proprietary interchangeable Moser escapement.

The in-house HMC 800

Dressed in identical colours but less elaborately executed, the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit has a steel case that’s 38.5 mm. Water resistant to 50 m, the case has only a single pusher at two, making it a mono-pusher chronograph.

The dial has a “Coarse Dégradé Amber” centre with a “Royal Purple” chapter ring and minute register. Like the Moser, the dial is devoid of logos. According to the brand, the two chronograph hands are tipped in are green to “symbolise the seed of passion” that grows in a watch collector.

Inside the open case back lies a manual-wind Sellita SW510 M. The movement features hacking seconds and cam-operated chronograph. It has a power reserve of 63 hours and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).

Key facts and price

Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit
Ref. 03PFB

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Sellita SW510 M
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and monopusher chronograph
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 63 hours

Strap: Black epsom calfskin leather strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces as part of the box set
Availability: Now at Moser boutiques and retailers

For more, visit underd0g.com.

H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit
Ref. 1800-1200

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 800
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve indicator, leap year indicator and perpetual calendar
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 7 days

Strap: Black alligator leather strap

Limited edition: 100 pieces as part of box set
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF59,000 for the box set including the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit

For more, visit h-moser.com.