Originally launched in 2019 as a fundraising exercise for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the Gaïa wristwatch is returning for the museum’s 50th anniversary this year. The MIH is marking the occasion with a pair of watches, the Gaïa Series III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary, both limited editions that will help fund restoration work and promotional activities at the museum.

The two watches share the unique design of earlier Gaïa editions, but now the dials are engraved. Notably, the Gaïa 50th Anniversary (pictured above) has a guilloche dial that’s hand made by Georges Brodbeck, a veteran guillocheur whose workshop was acquired by Voutilainen two years ago.

The Gaïa Series III with a laser engraved dial

Initial thoughts

As with the earlier Gaïa watches, the new pair are a great way to support one of Switzerland’s leading watch and clock museums. But the Gaïa is not just a charity project, it is an appealing and well-priced watch.

The price has risen slightly, from CHF2,900 for the original to CHF3,400 for the Gaïa III, but the increase is modest relative to the watch industry as a whole, and the watch remains a value buy.

The Gaïa anniversary is twice the price at over CHF5,000, but still value considering the hand-made guilloche dial. It’s one of the handful of watches in this price range with a traditional engine-turned dial, plus it has an unusual time display and case. The closest comparison is the Louis Erard Excellence that is less expensive but makes do with a stock case, movement, and dial.

Georges Brodbeck

Geometric styling

The new Gaïa models are nearly identical to the earlier versions that were first in blue and then black. All of the watch is made in the region surrounding MIH, with each component made by a local specialist, ranging from Singer for the dials to Stila for the cases. The design is the work of Atelier XJC, which tweaked the design slightly for the latest pair.

Compact at 39 mm wide and under 10 mm high, the steel case features distinctive angular lugs reminiscent of vintage “wire” lugs. The details of the case are more elaborate than on most watches in this price range.

The original Gaïa watch, which shares the same case as the new pair

Inside is a Sellita SW400-1, a no-frills but reliable movement. The movement is conventional, but instead of hands, time is indicated by discs, giving the Gaïa an unusual face. Hours shown in a window across the top of the dial and minutes in the centre.

The case back is solid save for a window that echoes the hour display on the front, through which the rotor can be seen as it oscillates

The clean design of the watch is inspired by the MIH building, a Brutalist structure inaugurated in 1974 that also inspired the dial motifs on the new Gaïa watches.

Finished in a dark blue similar to that found on the first Gaïa, the dial of the Series III is laser engraved with a linear pattern inspired by the formwork marks on its concrete structure.

On the other hand, the circular pattern on the 50th Anniversary is more abstract. It is inspired by ensō, a hand-painted circle that represents clarity of mind and enlightenment in Zen Buddhism. Engine turned on a clean, silver dial, the pattern is meant to evoke the structure of the MIH premises.

The motifs on the Gaïa III (left) and 50th Anniversary

More intriguing is the 50th Anniversary edition, which shares the same case and movement, but boasts a solid-silver dial with traditional guilloche.

The concentric lines are engine turned by Mr Brodbeck, who does the guilloche freehand and without a template, meaning each engraved line starts and ends at a different level. As a result, each of the guilloche dials across the 50-piece edition are different.

Mr Brodbeck at work

Key facts and price

MIH Gaïa Series III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 9.74 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Dial: Brass coated blue and laser engraved for Gaïa III; solid silver with guilloche for 50th anniversary

Movement: Sellita SW400-1
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Appel vegan leather with steel pin buckle

Limited edition: 100 pieces for Gaïa III, and 50 pieces for 50th anniversary
Availability: Direct from MIH online or at museum shop
Price: CHF3,400 for Gaïa III; CHF5,050 for the 50th anniversary (prices exclude tax)

For more, visit Montremih.ch.