For the milestone anniversary of its famed chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne hasn’t held back on commemorative editions. Starting with the Datograph Up/Down in blue and then the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”, the German brand now concludes the anniversary with the third and final celebratory edition, the Datograph Handwerkskunst. 

A finely executed watch that will instinctively appeal to Lange fans, the yellow gold Datograph Handwerkskunst is unsurprising given the occasion. And like past Handwerkskunst editions – this is the eighth watch in the Handwerkskunst series – it is relatively inaccessible: the watch is limited to just 25 pieces and substantially pricier than the regular production Datograph.

The L951.8 in the Datograph Handwerkskunst

Initial thoughts

The original Datograph set the benchmark for a high-end, classical chronograph movement when it was launched in 1999. Exceptional both aesthetically and technically, then and now, the Datograph remains equally impressive 25 years later.

The Datograph Handwerkskunst has all the familiar traits that defined the model for the past 25 years. On top of that, it has an artisanally decorated dial finished with tremblage. And more significantly, the movement gets a substantial extra dose of black polishing on all the chronograph levers, enhancing an already impressive chronograph calibre.

Notably, the Datograph Handwerkskunst returns to the Datograph design of 1999. The tremblage dial has the neo-classical dial with Roman numerals found on the original, a design that suits the elaborate decoration well. This gives the watch a certain grandeur, and a baroque aesthetic that is less clinical than the conventional Lange style.

The dial decor also complements the yellow gold case as well; the alloy is also notable for being used only once before in the Datograph line.

Though the price of the new Datograph is on request, going by the recent pricing norms for the brand’s limited editions, this should be in the region of US$200,000, as compared to the regular production model that costs about half that. The price feels a little exaggerated for a Datograph with a decorated dial and frosted movement, but the extremely limited nature justifies the price.

Just like the two anniversary pieces launched earlier this year, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a combination of familiar Lange elements. It isn’t imaginative but this does not make the watch any less impressive in terms of finishing and execution.

Craftsmanship

German for “craftsmanship”, handwerkskunst in the Lange catalogue has always been about watches with dials and movements decorated elaborately with artisanal techniques that are not applied to standard models. The Datograph Handwerkskunst follows a template established with prior Handwerkskunst editions, with the highlight clearly being the dial.

Made of solid 18k gold and plated in black rhodium, the dial showcases tremblage, an engraving technique that creates countless, microscopic divots on the dial with a special burin. The challenge is to achieve an even finish across finely-grained surface.

The dial is exquisitely crafted, with the darker tremblage surface pairing well with the yellow gold indices and markings that are in raised relief.

The Lange typeface and overall styling of the dial matches the tremblage, giving the watch a sense of fancy yet restrained German refinement that is found on other Handwerkskunst watches. And the relief indices on the grained surface are reminiscent of wrought-iron embellishments on the facades of neoclassical buildings.

A familiar chronograph

The classic case profile of the Datograph Up/Down is retained, and the yellow gold case has a diameter of 41 mm, with a thickness of 13.1 mm. This is only the second Datogaph in yellow gold after the limited production first-generation model.

The case finishing is excellent, with a styling instantly recognisable as Lange. The large chronograph pushers and crown are balanced by the trademark rapid date corrector placed at 10 o’clock. 

Beneath the dial sits the L951.8, an evolution of the original Datograph movement from 1999. The L951.8 runs for 60 hours, beats at a leisurely 2.5Hz and features a large, free-sprung balance. The Breguet overcoil hairspring is produced in-house by Lange, a laudable feat.

Though technically identical to the movement in the Datograph Up/Down, the L951.8 has a finishing unique to the Handwerkskunst edition.

Instead of the customary striped bridges, the L951.8 sports a frosted finish that was also employed in a handful of past limited editions. Another unique element is the balance cock relief engraved with a vine motif, which replaces the conventional intaglio engraving.

But the most notable decorative extra is the mirrored black polishing applied to all of the steel chronograph levers. This is a more time consuming and difficult technique than the straight graining found on the regular production version of the movement.

The movement features the iconic Datograph layout, which lays the chronograph works, levers and hammers almost bare, along with the horizontal clutch and instant minute counter works. Over the course of the years, the Datograph calibre has undergone. a number of tweaks and modifications, some of which added new complications, while others were incremental improvements of the base movement.

The calibre still remains the standard in terms of classical chronograph architecture, although objectively it is not as technically advanced as other movements, like the Patek Philippe CH 29-535 PS for instance.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst
Ref. 405.048F

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.1 mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Material: 750 (18K) yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L951.8
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph, and oversized date
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator with deployant clasp in 18k yellow gold

Limited edition: 25 numbered watches
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques
Price: On request

For more, visit Alange-soehne.com.