Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The B19 in Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat formats.Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable.
The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar.
Initial thoughts
One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar.
Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01.
Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better.
All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double complication in a gold case, but it’s well above Breitling’s sweet spot for pricing, putting the watches in competition with less complicated but finer offerings from higher end brands. As a result, the anniversary edition has a niche appeal, but the regular production version – that is unannounced but inevitable – will certainly be a better value proposition.
B01 upgraded
The B19 is arguably the most refined take on the concept for Breitling, since it combines the in-house calendar mechanism with the in-house B01. In the anniversary editions, the B19 is upgraded with a solid gold rotor depicting Breitling’s historic Montbrillant manufacture.
Kitted out with a vertical clutch and column wheel in a well-thought-out construction, the B01 is Breitling’s flagship in-house movement. It’s also used by Tudor, which acquired the rights to the movement via its movement subsidiary Kenissi. The Tudor version of the movement has upgraded features originally absent on the B01, though the B19 now sports some of the upgrades.
The B19 also has an in-house perpetual calendar module that has been part of Breitling’s offerings on and off for some decades. The more common version of the calendar module was a simpler annual calendar version that was combined with an ETA Valjoux 7750 in the Navitimer 1461 and similar models that were in Breitling’s catalogue for many years.
All three anniversary editions share the same B19 movement as well as an 18k red gold case, but are otherwise quite different.
The Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary is a 42 mm by 15.6 mm watch with a black dial and matching black registers, making it the most compact of the trio.
The Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is slightly larger at 43 mm wide and 15.62 mm high, but more striking with its pink-on-pink livery. The 18k red gold case is matched with a solid, 18k red gold dial and a black slide-rule bezel.
Finally, the Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is 44 mm in diameter and 15.35 mm high. The red gold case sports a red gold bezel with a black ceramic insert. The more modern styling is matched with a partially open worked dial that reveals some of the calendar mechanism below.
Key facts and price
Breitling Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary
Ref. RB19401A1B1P1
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 15.6 mm
Material: 18k red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: Cal. B19
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and perpetual calendar
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 96 hours
Strap: Black alligator strap with 18k red gold folding buckle
Limited edition: 140 pieces
Availability: Now at Breitling boutiques and retailers
Price: US$59,000
Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
Ref. RB19101A1H1P1
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 15.62 mm
Material: 18k red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. B19
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and perpetual calendar
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 96 hours
Strap: Black alligator strap with 18k red gold folding buckle
Limited edition: 140 pieces
Availability: Now at Breitling boutiques and retailers
Price: US$59,000
Breitling Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
Ref. RB19301A1G1S1
Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 15.35 mm
Material: 18k red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: Cal. B19
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and perpetual calendar
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 96 hours
Strap: Rouleaux-inspired rubber strap with an 18 k red gold folding clasp
Limited edition: 140 pieces
Availability: Now at Breitling boutiques and retailers
Price: US$59,000
For more, visit breitling.com
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