Urwerk Marks 10 Years of the EMC with the SR-71

Incorporating a tiny bit of the spy plane.

Urwerk’s highly technical and unique approach to watchmaking is captured in the EMC SR-71, a limited edition of 10 pieces to mark the 10th anniversary of a model that has a built-in user-regulation device. This edition boasts a special and tangible link to military aviation with a crank handle from alloy retrieved from the fuselage of an SR-71 “Blackbird”, the famous Cold War-era, supersonic spy plane.

Initial thoughts

Although sci-fi and even extravagant in terms of mechanics, materials, and shapes, Urwerk timepiece have a certain hyper-functional, instrument-like quality to them. Trademark features like the “oil change” indicator make its watches feel like actual pieces of machinery.

The original EMC was launched in 2014 as an endeavour in blending traditional watchmaking with contemporary electronics and micro computing technology. Though advanced, the EMC complication is esoteric and never really gained traction.

However, for a specific niche of watch geeks and nerds, the EMC is an intriguing and original idea. The bit of an SR-71 “Blackbird” in the watch adds to the geeky appeal without being too gimmicky. The EMC is not the only watch with a piece of the SR-71 in it – in fact other such watches are mostly far less expensive – but it is certainly the most advanced and innovative.

The Blackbird connection

Fundamentally identical in terms of function and mechanics, the EMC SR-71 is special because it features components made from an alloy recast from the fuselage of a decommissioned SR-71 “Blackbird”.

Conceived by Lockheed for the CIA in the 1960s, the SR-71 is no longer in service but remains one of the most iconic stealth aircraft ever produced, thanks in part to its distinctive silhouette. Its unique shape and success as a spy plane continues to capture the minds of aviation enthusiasts even though it last flew a mission in 1999.

Pieces of a Blackbird’s fuselage were provided to Urwerk by Jason Saroyan and Dr Roman Sperl, a pair of aviation enthusiasts who founded Dreamland, a lifestyle brand focused on space travel-inspired clothing and accessories. Made from a titanium alloy with an undisclosed composition, the fuselage pieces were melted down, cast, and milled by Urwerk into crank handles for the EMC SR-71.

Mechanics and electronics

The fundamental concept remains the same in the EMC SR-71: the in-house manual-wind movement is paired with a digital control unit, which tests and displays the movement’s accuracy in real time, so the owner can make timing adjustments on their own, without a watchmaker in other words. The proprietary electronics are also powered by the wearer, with the crank powering up a micro-generator and capacitor. Everything is contained within the watch.

Leaving aside the Blackbird connection, the watch itself is impressive on its own. A large and imposing piece, the EMC SR-71’s rectangular case measures 47.5 mm by 49.5 mm and comes in at 17.5 mm in thickness. The watch face is divided into four separate dials which overlap and blend into each other, resembling a cockpit instrument cluster.

The exaggerated seconds sub dial is slightly larger than the hours and minutes sub-dial, reflecting the EMC’s focus on chronometry. There is also a small power reserve sector indication at eight o’clock and above that, the proprietary performance indicator.

The performance indicator is scaled from “-20” to “+20” seconds to indicate the current rate deviation as measured by the control unit off the balance wheel. The wearer just needs to press a button to start the measurement process.

When activated, the electronic module in the unit optically records the 4 Hz balance’s rate for three seconds and then compares the balance’s oscillations against a 16 million Hz electronic oscillator that is dead-on. The difference is the rate deviation of the movement’s timekeeping. At the 12 o’clock position on the case back is a tiny screw marked “Fine Tuning”, which works with a rack and allows the user to directly adjust the running rate of the movement with a tool.

The monitoring unit is powered by a micro-generator with its own capacitor that’s charged by the crank handle, so it functions without an external power source.

The manually-wound UR-EMC movement was developed in-house by Urwerk and has a distinctive architecture. The square movement runs on two barrels linked co-axially in series which provide the watch with a comfortable 80 hour power reserve. The going train mostly is hidden, making the connection between the barrels and oscillator invisible.

The dual stacked barrels are linked in series

The balance is proprietary, made from ARCAP alloy and designed to work optimally with the optical sensor. The movement finishing is clean and precise, but not superlative in any way.

The yellow cover contains the optical sensor; the grey lever allows the rate to be regulated by the owner

The case back comes adorned with yellow accents which subtly conceal the circuitry, which might otherwise have disrupted the mechanical feel of the movement. The industrial yellow hue pairs well with the black titanium case of the EMC SR-71, reminding again of aircraft instrument clusters and aviation.


Key facts and price

Urwerk EMC SR-71

Case dimensions: 47.5  mm by 49.5 mm
Case height: 17.5 mm
Material: Steel and titanium with SR-71 alloy for crank handle
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UR-EMC
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds; performance indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: manual
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Nato-style strap with Velcro fastening

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability:
Now at Urwerk retailers
Price: CHF150,000 before taxes

For more, visit Urwerk.com.


 

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An Omega Seamaster Diver 300M for the 37th America’s Cup

A time-only with yachting details.

As the official timekeeper of the 37th America’s Cup soon taking place in Barcelona, Omega is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup. A time-only version of the brand’s signature dive watch, the latest Seamaster features most of Omega’s material and movement innovations, including a laser-engraved ceramic dial and METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement.

The special edition also sports yachting-specific elements, including a blue ceramic bezel with a regatta countdown scale and a seconds hand counterweight in the form of the America’s Cup trophy.

Initial thoughts

As a special or limited edition, the new Seamaster is not especially interesting since Omega does a lot of them, with several commemorative editions for each sporting events it’s part of. And it’s not just for sports but also the James Bond film franchise.

But as a new Seamaster, the America’s Cup edition works well. For one it’s a good value proposition at US$6,500 on a bracelet, particularly given the specs and features. At the same time, the blue-and-white aesthetic is appealing, especially with the clean, no-date look. And there’s the subtle detail on the minute hand with a gradual colour fade finish that is novel and so far unique in the Omega catalogue.

So leaving aside that it’s yet another commemorative watch – it could do without the large logo on the sapphire back – the America’s Cup edition stands out as of the more appealing Seamaster models.

A regatta diver

Design tweaks aside, the latest edition sticks to the standard Seamaster template, with a stainless steel case that’s 42 mm in diameter and 13.8 mm in thickness.

Water resistant to 300 m, the case features a helium escape valve and a screw-down crown. The unidirectional bezel has a blue ceramic insert that’s unique to this watch. It’s engraved with 10-minute countdown for the start of a regatta.

The dial is also ceramic, a matte white ceramic that’s been laser engraved to create a relief wave pattern. The dial markings, hands, and markers are in blue, but the minute hand has a twist: it goes from blue to red towards the tip.

The blue seconds hand counterweight is in the silhouette of the America’s Cup

The 37th America’s Cup emblem is printed on the sapphire back, with a “B” for Barcelona, the host city for this year’s race. Visible through the back is the cal. 8806, which is METAS certified and thus a Master Chronometer.

Like all of Omega’s new-generation movements, the cal. 8806 is resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 Gauss, boasts 55 hours of power reserve. Because of its silicon hairspring, it runs at an unusual 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz).


Key facts and price

Omega Seamaster Diver 300 m America’s Cup
Ref. 210.30.42.20.04.002

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. 8806
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Matching steel bracelet or blue rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$6,200 on strap; US$6,500 on bracelet. 

For more, visit omegawatches.com


 

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