Konstantin Chaykin Debuts Double-Faced Grand Complication
The Stargazer with 17 complications.Having been first seen as a one-off for a charity auction, the Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer is now part of the watchmaker’s catalogue. Originally conceived as a unique piece for the postponed Only Watch 2023, the Stargazer is the independent watchmaker’s most complicated wristwatch to date.
Arguably the most successful Russian watchmaker today, Mr Chaykin has long had a passion for astronomy and astrophysics – he created a Martian-time watch in 2018 – so it is unsurprising that the Stargazer is heavily focused on astronomical complications, including a star chart and sunrise-sunset indicator. The complexity of the Stargazer places it in the same rarefied niche of watchmaking occupied by similar grand complications from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and F. P. Journe.
Initial thoughts
Virtually identical to the Only Watch unique piece, the regular-production Stargazer remains an exceptional watch. Its complexity is all the more remarkable coming from a small independent outfit, as compared to similar watches developed by large manufacturers.
The Stargazer has a strong design with distinctive lines, with a style that evokes some of Mr Chaykin’s past space-inspired watches. This unique aesthetic differentiates it from most other astronomically-oriented timepieces, which are primarily classical. Additionally, the brand’s trademark Wristmon format is put to good use here, because the Stargazer is indeed a two-faced horological beast.
The fact that it has indications on both dials is not unusual for an astronomical grand complication, but unlike most of its compatriots, the Stargazer can be worn on both sides. The lugs and strap insert, however, make this a very long watch, so it fits best on larger wrists.
Astronomy oriented
The Stargazer’s cal. K.22-1 contains 17 complications — 11 of which are astronomically-oriented. It is derived from the cal. K.22-0 developed for the Martian Tourbillon of 2021, made more complicated primarily with the addition of the double-faced display.
Just below the tourbillon on the reverse is the Latin phrase “per aspera ad astra”, which translates as “through asperity to the stars” – meaning goals are achieved through adversity. This is particularly apt for the watch, twice over in fact.
For one, the Stargazer’s achievement lies in the difficulty of its complications. And second, the impressive movement is encased in a roughly hewn case of bulat, a forged-patterned steel alloy used in Russia since medieval times.
Since the conventional, single-faced wristwatch is restrictive in terms of information displayed, Mr Chaykin opted for a double-sided case, which can be worn either way thanks to a double-sided strap and reversible buckle.
Playfully referred to as the “Light” and “Dark” sides of the watch, a reference to the colour of the respective dials, each face features a distinct set of indicators. Both faces are laid out the signature Joker style that forms a face with eyes and a mouth.
The watch, in typical Joker fashion, features two crowns, one for setting and the other for winding. The 664-component movement runs for 45 hours on a full wind, which is respectable given it carries 17 complications.
With bridges and other components finished in dark grey, the Dark side shows the hours and minutes regulator-style, with the hours on the left sub-dial and minutes on the right.
On the “forehead”, an open-worked counter features co-axial mean solar and sidereal time indicators in a 24-hour format. Located in the same counter on the “forehead” is a minute rotating sky chart showing the night sky in the Northern hemisphere.
And on either side of the “forehead” counter are the twin scales for the duration of day and night, with hands to indicate sunrise and sunset times that vary through the year. And at the 12 o’clock position is the pointer for the rotating peripheral zodiac sign ring.
The day of the week is shown on a retrograde pointer across the “smile” while the running equation of time indication forms the “nose”.
The Light side shows an altogether separate set of information. Here the bridges are finished with rhodium plating, giving the face a silver hue with gilt accents. The left “eye” is a solar activity cycle tracker, showing the almost periodic 11 year change in the Sun’s magnetic activity.
The right “eye” is a conventional moon phase indicator. This is accurate to within a day in 122 years, which was long the industry norm for such displays. This disappoints slightly, however, given the ultra-accurate indicators of recent times.
Between the eyes is a small “discrete” moon phase indicator, which only shows the four traditional phases of the moon via a jumping display with four positions.
On the periphery of the dial are a pair of scales, each occupying half the circumference for the sunrise and sunset azimuth angles, indicated by a pair of central hands.
Finally an opening at six reveals the free-sprung tourbillon regulator, which runs at an uncommon 19,800 beats per hour, or 2.75 Hz.
Cleverly constructed to be worn with either side facing upwards, the bulky bulat case comes in at 42 mm in diameter and 15.3 mm high. The strap is fitted with a reversible pin buckle, and more interestingly also contains sprung inserts in both sections adjacent to the lugs.
These inserts allow the strap to spring back the desired curvature, depending on which side is worn facing up. The downside of this double-sided strap is the highly creased appearance of the leather grain, which will only get more pronounced over time.
Key facts and price
Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer
Ref. K.22-1
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 15.3 mm
Material: Genuine “bulat”stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: yes
Movement: Calibre K.22-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde day of the week, various astronomical complications
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours
Strap: Black calfskin and “bulat” steel buckle
Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Konstantin Chaykin
Price: –
For more information, visit Chaykin.ru
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