Farer unveils the Monopusher GMT in two variants, Cobb and Segrave, names might be familiar to those following the brand, as they were also the names of its now-discontinued single-button chronograph models. The new Monopusher GMT offerings are essentially identical in design to their respective predecessors but now sport a second time zone. Both models share the same cushion-shaped stainless steel case, similar to that used for the Chronograph Hand-Wound, but thicker to accommodate the triple-stacked hands in the centre.

Initial thoughts

Micro brands occupy a unique niche in the market. They often equip their watches with no-frills but cost-efficient ETA or Selita calibres, or even cheaper movements, but set themselves apart aesthetically while excelling at marketing online.

Farer is a perfect example of this, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The hand-wind Sellita calibre inside the Monopusher GMT is elaboré grade, but still basic. Farer, however, has done a good job at dressing it up.

The Segrave on a “Milanese” bracelet

And over on the front, the overall design is simple and clearly vintage inspired, but still manages to possess the Farer aesthetic thanks to its use of geometric shapes and primary colours. The cushion-shaped case has a familiar 1970s style, but it stands out with a knurled surface on the recessed case sides.

Priced at US$2,195, the Farer Monopusher GMT is priced similar to its “micro” brand competitors but offers good value compared to establishment brands like Longines.

One button, two time zones

Made of stainless steel, the case of the Monopusher GMT is 41 mm in diameter and 14.5 mm thick. Water resistant to 100 m, the case wears a lot smaller than the specs, as 2.25 mm of its thickness is the tall domed crystal. Plus the case is only 44 mm lug-to-lug due to the compact cushion design.

The 44 mm lug-to-lug case makes its more wearable

Each model is equipped with a different dial. The Cobb has a sunburst brushed, ice-blue dial with cream-tone accents, along with a small seconds counter at nine and a chronograph counter at 12.

With a more symmetrical layout featuring sub-dials at six and 12, the Segrave sports higher-contrast colours. It has a grained black finish accentuated by an orange GMT hand, blue chronograph seconds, and running seconds hand in green.

The Segrave features a contrast colour scheme

Because the chronograph layouts are different on each, the models are equipped with different version of the same Sellita movement. The Segrave is powered by Sellita SW536 M MP, while the Cobb utilises the SW530 M MP a. Part of the same SW500 family, the two movements have the same mono-pusher chronograph complication as well as GMT functionality. Notably, the GMT hand can only be set anticlockwise in one hour steps.

Both calibres beat at 28,800 beats per hour and offer 62 hours of power reserve. The only notable difference between the two is the jewel count. The SW530 inside the Cobb has 25 jewels, whereas the SW536 of the Segrave has 29 due to the relocation of the constant seconds to six.

The movements are visible through sapphire backs on both, and look identical in each. They are finished to the highest grade offered by Sellita, which is industrial but still offers details like blued screws as well as snailing and a custom engraved pattern modelled on the Farer arrow logo.

The Sellita SW530 M MP a calibre inside the Cobb

Key facts and price

Farer Monopusher GMT
Ref. Cobb
Ref. Segrave

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.5 mm (including 2.25 mm crystal height) 
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Sellita SW530 M MP a for Cobb; Sellita SW536 M MP for Segrave 
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, small seconds, monopusher chronograph and GMT
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 62 hours

Strap: Supplied on a select quick-release leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Farer boutiques and retailers starting June 2024
Price: US$2,195

For more, visit farer.com

Launched just last year, Raymond Weil’s “sector” dial is getting new livery with the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue. Not a vintage reissue per se but a modern take on a vintage-inspired design, the Millesime has a “sector” or “scientific” dial segmented into sections, subtly stepped on the periphery and frosted in the centre for a two-tone effect. The case is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal and narrow lugs for subtle retro charm.

Initial thoughts

Family-run Raymond Weil is a brand that might be familiar to watch enthusiasts but not top of mind – that’s because the brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s when it was a major seller of affordable Swiss watches. Since then it has gradually fallen behind the competition with mostly unimaginative products; The New York Times describes the brand as a “mainstay of shopping malls”.

With last year’s launch of the Millesime, a watch geared towards enthusiasts, the brand is trying to revive its offerings and reputation. It quickly found some success: the Millesime Small Seconds with a silver dial won the Challenge Prize (for watches retailing for less than CHF3,000) at last year’s  Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève.

Near-perfect proportions at 39.5 mm in diameter and just over 10 mm high

In the hand, it’s obvious the Millesime is much, much better than most recent Raymond Weil creations. Even though the design isn’t exactly original, it shows attention was paid to the details, particularly with the textures on the dial and proportions. All in all, the Millesime combines pleasing design and honest quality.

Priced at US$1,995, the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds is a decent value proposition, though not as compelling as the offerings from its rivals with greater economies of scale, most notably Longines with its Master Small Seconds that has a higher spec movement and more elaborate dial for not much more. At the same time, “micro” brands can offer similar watches for less due to their direct-to-consumer model. This reflects a wider challenge for brands in Raymond Weil’s segment that are sandwiched between huge and tiny rivals.

A stepped, two-tone dial

Featuring a “sector” layout with crosshairs, the stepped dial is frosted in the centre. The discreet hour markers, as well as the dauphine hands, are filled with Super-Luminova. This Millesime model features a small seconds register unnecessarily labelled “Automatic”.

Compact in size, the case has a bezel that’s brushed on top with mirror-polished bevelling on its edges.  The lugs are drilled for easy strap changes if one wants to swap out the stock navy calfskin leather strap.

The stepped dial is frosted in the centre

The watch is equipped with RW4251, which is derived from the Sellita SW200/SW260, in turn based on the architecture of the ETA 2824. It’s visible through the sapphire case back, but has minimal decoration, which is expected given the price point.

The RW4251 visible through the sapphire back

Key facts and price

Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue
Ref. 2930-STC-50011

Diameter: 39.5 mm
Height: 10.25 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. RW4251
Functions: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 41 hours

Strap: Navy calf-skin leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Raymond Weil boutiques and retailers 
Price: US$1,995

For more, visit raymond-weil.com

Expected but not quite so soon, longtime Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe is retiring after two decades at its helm, first as managing director for eight years followed by another 12 years as chief executive, during which he oversaw the expansion of Hublot’s manufacture as well as collaborations like the Daniel Arsham pocket watch.

Now 59 years old with some four decades in the watch industry, Mr Guadalupe will be replaced by Julien Tornare, who was only just named to the top job at TAG Heuer in January 2024 when Frederic Arnault was named chief executive of the LVMH Watches Division. In turn, Mr Tornare will be succeeded by Antoine Pin, who was most recently head of Bulgari’s watch business. Who succeeds Mr Pin has not yet been officially announced. All the new appointments take effect come September 1, 2024.

From left: Julien Tornare, Frédéric Arnault, Ricardo Guadalupe, and Antoine Pin

Mr Guadalupe is a watch industry lifer, having started in the business at Bulgari in the mid 1980s before moving to Blancpain and then Hublot. For about a year now, Hublot insiders have been saying Mr Guadalupe appeared ready for retirement, though the announcement still comes as unexpected.

Slated to become the Honorary President of Hublot after he steps down, Mr Guadalupe’s retirement might be due in part to the marked slowdown in the watch industry, which no doubt contributed to the significant management overhaul at Richemont, where new faces were appointed to the chief executive post for the group, its largest brand Cartier, and its second largest, Van Cleef & Arpels.

With Mr Tornare in the job at TAG Heuer for just seven months, his move to Hublot does not feel like it was long planned. He comes to Hublot after a brief stint at TAG Heuer where he had insufficient time to make his mark, but before that Mr Tornare had seven years at Zenith where he oversaw a near-doubling of sales with bestsellers like the Chronomaster.

Taking over TAG Heuer is Antonine Pin, an LVMH veteran who has been with the group for over three decades. Under his watch the Bulgari watch division set records for ultra-thin watches and revived historical classics like the Bulgari-Bulgari.