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Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold

On the tourbillon's 223rd anniversary.

Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon on June 16, 1801. On the birthday of his celebrated invention, Breguet launches the facelifted, rose gold iteration of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345.

The brand’s most formidable tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon is a remarkable timepiece that blends forward-thinking mechanics with traditional craftsmanship, all presented in a striking, oversized case.

Initial thoughts

While the newest iteration of the Double Tourbillon collection is not actually new (the original version was launched four years ago), the complication never ceases to amaze. The watch is an impressive demonstration of artisanal skill, with open worked movement revealing a plethora of decorated surfaces, each showcasing a different finishing technique.

The three-dimensional calibre is built upon an 18k rose gold main plate that’s been engine turned with a new wave guilloche developed by Breguet. And the reverse of the watch reveals the bridges of the movement that are entirely hand engraved with a detailed scene of 19th century Paris.

Beyond the artisanal finishes, the movement is a highly technical affair. It features no dial, with the movement forming the face. Not only does it include two tourbillon regulators, each with its own going train and barrel, but half of the movement itself is geared to rotate once every 12 hours.

The watch is large for the classic Breguet style, but the chunky case is inevitable given the complex movement. Other design details could be easily improved. One is the pair of “B” barrel bridges that are too obvious and a little gimmicky relative to the overall refinement of the watch. And the other is the dark blue rubber strap embossed with the Breguet logo that is entirely not suited to the watch.

Artisanal craft

The 740 components of the cal. 588N2 are carefully finished in costly, traditional ways. The chamfering alone takes some 100 hours of work according to Breguet. The specific skills needed for executing some of the finishes are hard to come by, so the brand trains artisans in-house — a promising step towards preserving the craft.

One of the crafts Breguet performs in-house, at scale, is guilloche. Breguet is known for its large inventory of both modern and antique guilloche (engine turning) machines, which the brand employs for decorating dials, oscillating rotors, bridges, and cases. The brand’s engine turning is on show in the Double Tourbillon with its guilloche base plate.

The movement is essentially constructed on top of the base plate, with most of its moving parts visible on the dial.

Twin tourbillons take centerstage on the dial. The two tourbillons each beat at a leisurely 2.5 Hz and feature Breguet-overcoil hairsprings and free-sprung balances. The power comes in at a respectable 60 hours.

The polished and blued tourbillon bridge that secures both tourbillons) doubles as an hour hand, since the main plate makes one revolution every 12 hours. The minute hand is more conventional, also executed in blued steel. Blue hour indices are printed on a sapphire disk.

Beside each tourbillon is a barrel, each acting on a central differential, on which the main plate and timing works are fixed. The backplate of the movement sits still in the case, while the main plate is free to rotate, affixed to a large ball race bearing.

39 Quai de L’Horloge

The stationary base plate of the movement is used as a canvas for a meticulous, freehand engraving of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop at 39 Quai de l’Horloge in Paris. The rhodium-plated miniature painstakingly recreates an overhead view of the revered address, situated on the banks of the Seine. The engraving creates vivid perspectives and texture through the bas-relief technique.

Matching the solid gold main plate is the 18k rose gold case. It is classic Breguet in style, with narrow soldered lugs, a coin-edge case band, and slim bezel, but complemented by a heavily domed sapphire crystal that accommodates the movement on the front.

Because of the particular movement architecture, the case is large in size, measuring 46 mm in diameter and a staggering height of 16.8 mm, making it one of the largest Breguet watches in the catalogue.