Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve.

Initial thoughts

Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet.

Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1.

Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment.

The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range.

Bang for your buck

The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time and the day display.

Dial of Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1.

Although both feature an angular titanium case, the SSH157J1 is equipped with a ceramic bezel, while the relatively affordable SSJ027J1 sports a matching titanium bezel. Both are fitted to an integrated bracelet and boast a transparent light blue moulded dial inspired by the starry night sky.

Both models feature applied indices and sword-shaped hands. They also sport a similar-style closed case back with the limited edition number printed on the reverse side.

Limited to 1,500 pieces each, the new Seiko Astron models will be available in Seiko boutiques and retailers starting June 2024.

Key facts and price

Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition
Ref. SSH157J1

Diameter: 43.3 mm
Height: 13.4 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 5X83
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph, perpetual calendar, and world-time.
Winding: GPS Solar
Power reserve: 6 months

Strap: Matching titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces
Availability: Available at Seiko boutiques and retailers starting June 2024.
Price: US$2,500

For more, visit seikowatches.com

Key facts and price

Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition
Ref. SSJ027J1

Diameter: 41.2 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3X62
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, and perpetual calendar.
Winding: GPS Solar
Power reserve: 6 months

Strap: Matching titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces
Availability: Available at Seiko boutiques and retailers starting June 2024.
Price: US$2,200

For more, visit seikowatches.com

For Tudor, 2024 was a year of safe bets, with the only completely new model family, the Black Bay 58 GMT, being an almost guaranteed success from the get-go. Overtly referencing sought-after vintage GMT Master models from sister brand Rolex, the BB58 GMT further solidifies Tudor’s dominant position in its category.

While the big story last year was Tudor’s move out of its parents’ basement and into its own manufacture in Le Locle, this year was comparatively tame, focused on expanding the line-up of METAS-certified Black Bay models.

Initial thoughts

Tudor is one of the Swiss watch industry’s great success stories of the last decade. In a market in which high-end products have enjoyed the lion’s share of growth, Tudor has achieved an enviable market position by consistently improving design and quality while maintaining affordable pricing.

The brand is also listening to the community, and introducing products that are likely to have built-in demand; the BB58 GMT is emblematic of this formula.

Beyond its signature gilt accents and black and burgundy “Coke” bezel, the big story is of course the packaging of a true “flyer” GMT functionality in the smaller Black Bay 58 case format.

The original Black Bay GMT, introduced in 2018, was beefier, at 41 mm in diameter and nearly 15 mm thick (14.6 mm to be specific). The Black Bay Pro shrunk the diameter to 39 mm, but the thickness stayed the same, resulting in a watch that felt overly thick.

The New BB58 GMT addresses this issue, trimming 1.8 mm from the thickness to create a product that feels much more sleek in the hand and on the wrist.

One of the only areas that misses the mark is the typography on the dial, which is generic and lacks character.

Another is arguably the “rivet-style” three-link bracelet, reminiscent of the first-generation Rolex Oyster bracelets, that Tudor has used for some time. While there’s no faulting the quality of the bracelet, which features the brand’s adjustable “T-Fit” clasp, the faux rivets feel unnecessary.

At just US$4,600 on an Oyster bracelet, the BB58 GMT is one of the best values to be had under US$5,000. In fact, it’s hard to think of another watch that offers as much tangible quality or iconic design in that price range.

The latter may be perceived as either a positive or a negative; while it unapologetically evokes a Rolex design, it does so with implicit authority given its relationship to its sister company.

The legitimate heir

Holding the BB58 GMT is like entering an alternative reality in which Baselworld 2005 never happened. That year, Rolex signaled the future of the GMT Master II collection with the launch of the first reference with a ceramic bezel, the ref. 116718 in yellow gold, which was part of a broader move upmarket that ultimately created the market space in which Tudor now thrives.

But since the discontinuation of the ref. 16710 in 2007, there has been unmet demand for a no-frills GMT watch in a classic Rolex livery. Other brands have tried, of course, but these too easily come across as inauthentic if they parrot Rolex’s designs too closely.

This is where the BB58 GMT is different; it arguably feels like a more natural heir to the ref. 16710 than the ceramic bezel 116710LN that actually succeeded it.

Aesthetically, this comes down to the visual weight of the various components, especially anodised aluminium bezel insert. While it eschews Rolex’s characteristic hands for Tudor’s own signature “Snowflake” hands, and deletes the unfortunate “Cyclops” date magnifier, the BB58 GMT nonetheless exudes the jet set-era romance of vintage Rolex GMT watches.

From a technical standpoint, the BB58 GMT is tangibly superior to the source material that was essentially a mid-1980s creation. From the feel of the bezel action to the “T-Fit” clasp with micro-adjustment, it’s a step up in quality.

The movement is also measurably superior. Compared to the GMT Master II ref. 16710’s cal. 3185, the MT5450-U offers 30% more power reserve and is certified to both COSC and METAS standards, a testing regimen more stringent than COSC certification alone.

More broadly, Tudor’s in-house calibres arguably offer the highest specs of all watches in its price segment, reflecting the brand’s substantial investments in manufacturing.

More METAS

The METAS certification is part of a key initiative of Tudor to position itself on equal footing with Omega, which helped develop the METAS standard almost a decade ago. The METAS standard tests fully cased watches, and guarantees the rate to between 0 to +5 seconds per day.

Critically, the METAS testing also subjects the watches to magnetic fields in excess of 15,000 gauss to ensure magnetism resistance. When this standard was developed, Omega had just introduced the Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss, and the addition of this criteria to the METAS testing standard was clearly designed to insulate Omega from the risk that another brand could easily pass its new test.

But now that Tudor has achieved this capability, certified watches can carry the same “Master Chronometer” label coveted by Omega.

METAS testing at Tudor. Image – Tudor

Paradox of choice

Even though the ink has barely dried on Tudor’s 2024 catalogue, there are already voices calling for models featuring the iconic “Pepsi” and “Pan-Am” liveries in the smaller BB58 format. These are reasonable demands, and I would also add requests for both an Oyster-style bracelet without the gimmicky fake rivets, and a five-link Jubilee-style bracelet like the one available on the Black Bay Master Chronometer.

I have every reason to think that we will see these products (and more) released in the coming years. Tudor’s releases tend to follow a pattern, in which desirable features, sizes, and colourways eventually diffuse throughout the collection.

While that’s great news for collectors with a laser-focus on a particular particular function or aesthetic, it could lead to a paradox of choice for  the average consumer or new enthusiast, with too many compelling options leading to “analysis paralysis.”

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Ref. 7939G1A0NRU

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5450-U
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$4,400 on rubber strap; US$4,600 on steel rivet-style bracelet

For more information, visit Tudorwatch.com.