Independent watchmaker Cédric Johner has joined forces with Louis Erard in a collaborative effort that has given birth to the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner. This regulator-style watch pays homage to Mr Johner’s signature Abyss case with its distinctive, hexagonal dial opening. And unlike other collaboration editions that were mostly design exercises, Mr Johner himself worked on each of these watches by decorating every rotor with his signature bead motif.

Initial thoughts 

In contrast to the whimsical and striking Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein collaborations, the latest Le Régulateur has a more classical design but still manages to be different with its octagonal dial and crystal. Even though it is a round watch case, it doesn’t really seem so as a result of the crystal. And it is a homage to Mr Johner’s work in more ways than just aesthetics, as Mr Johner himself offered an Abyss regulator model back in the day.

Interestingly, the restyled case arguably works better with the relatively chunky proportions of the Le Régulateur case, the dimensions of which also evokes the original Abyss that was also a solidly built shape.

Reasonably priced at CHF4,000 (on par with last year’s Chaykin Time-Eater), this will appeal to collectors seeking more classical look while still having a little of the unique character of an independent watchmaker.

Cédric Johner

A more traditional-styled regulator

A once successful watchmaker who then lost his brand name and trademark case design to DeWitt, Cédric Johner is now a one-man show working out of his own workshop in Geneva. He has returned to his original Abyss case and makes watches to order.

The new Le Régulateur is an affordable entry into his distinctive visual style and fresh take on the now-familiar Louis Erard regulator. Even though the brand has already done a good number of collaboration editions, this stands out.

The dial features a stamped sun-ray motif, while the anthracite regulator sub-dials are recessed. The hands are classical leaf shaped. Notably, the Roman numerals are executed in the same typography found on Cédric Johner watches.

Two dial colours are available for the Cédric Johner edition: mauve and blue. Both dials get their colour from physical vapour deposition (PVD) that gives them a pleasing, metallic sheen. 

While the case has a unique hexagonal dial opening and crystal, its dimensions are identical to the smaller standard model. It measures 39 mm in diameter and stands 12.82 mm high.

Apart from the case and crystal, the watch is mechanically identical to other Louis Erard regulator models, except for the rotor customised by Cédric Johner.

It utilises the same Sellita SW266-1 along with a proprietary module for the regulator-style display. The specs remain the same, with a 4 Hz balance and a short 38-hour power reserve. 

Mr Johner applied his trademark beaded pattern to the oscillating weight of each timepiece, with each bead engraved by hand.

Key facts and price

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner
Ref. 85249AA02.BVA153 (mauve)
Ref. 85249AA01.BVA150 (blue)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 12.82 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Sellita SW266-1
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 178 pieces
Availability: Direct from Louis Erard online
Price: CHF4,000 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit Louiserard.com.