As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph.

Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis.

Initial thoughts

Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack.

At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market.

But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition run of 25 means all of them will probably find a buyer.

A diving tool

The Divetrack is presented in an enormous but lightweight titanium case with open-worked lugs that measures 49 mm in diameter and 19.67 mm high. The thickness is due in part to the peripheral time display: a ring with the hour numerals and minute marking is visible through a sapphire window below the bezel. Through it, the time is read against a luminous triangle on the case.

The time shown is 8:45

Also accounting for the thickness is the tall, knurled bezel that is stainless steel, which is also used for the crown and crown guard. Coated with a red ceramic layer, the crown guard swivels out to reveal the pusher to start, stop, and reset the chronograph.

With the time display on the side of the case, the chronograph is occupies the entirety of the dial. There are three elapsed time hands on the central axis: a slim seconds hand, a wide orange hand for the minutes, and a small triangular pointer for the hours. The seconds hand is sweeping, while the hour and minute hands are jumping, allowing for more accurate reading of the elapsed time.

The orange minute hand tracks the dive and decompression times when read against the unidirectional rotating bezel. More unusual is the central hour counter with segments marked “Chill”, “Dive”, and “Fly”. This is meant as an indicator of whether it’s suitable to dive.

For example, the chronograph is reset and started after a dive. After six hours of “Chill” time on the surface have passed, diving can resume. Similarly, the chronograph can be started after surfacing and getting on an airplane can only be done after 18 hours have passed.

The Divetrack is powered by a variant of the AgenGraphe movement found in the Track 1. Whereas the Track 1 has triple counters each measuring up to 60 units (seconds, minutes, and hours), the Divetrack movement measures 60 seconds, 60 minutes, and 24 hours. This modification also extends the movement’s power reserve to 72 hours, compared to 55 hours in the standard calibre.

Produced by Geneva complications specialist Agenhor, the AgenGraphe is also found in the Moser Streamliner Chronograph (and last year Moser’s parent took a stake in Agenhor). Like many of Agenhor’s movements, the AgenGraphe is a clever construction with an inventive approach to the chronograph.

Most of the chronograph mechanism is concentrated in a space in the centre of the movement, allowing for both the central display as well as a hidden rotor under the dial. This in turn allows for much of the intricacy of the chronograph works to be admired from the back.

Key facts and price

Singer Reimagined Divetrack

Diameter: 49 mm
Height: 19.67 mm
Material: Titanium with steel bezel, crown, and crown guard
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: AgenGraphe
Functions: Hours, minutes, and central chronograph with elapsed hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Black rubber with folding clasp, additional strap in fabric with Velcro closure

Limited edition: 25 pieces in 2024, with subsequent production not yet determined
Availability: From Singer and authorised retailers 
Price: CHF85,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Singerreimagined.com.

London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged.

Initial Thoughts

There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback — coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”.

Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch.

But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a small container of miniature tools, including a hammer, plier, and a saw, a reference to “tool” watch.

Like all contemporary Bamford watches, the B80 is priced reasonably at £1,250, offering an opportunity to have fun with a mechanical watch without breaking the bank. While it’s decent value proposition, though not as well priced as some micro brands. Most of its rivals, however, lack the brand of Bamford and its unique approach to watches.

Built as a tool watch

The B80 was conceived as a workhorse tool watch inspired by the military-issue “field” watches of the 1960s and 1970s, particularly those used by US Army infantry. Its dimensions are a compact 39 mm by 10.5 mm in keeping with the inspiration.

It utilises the no-frills Sellita SW300-1, a clone of the ETA 2824 that’s been upgraded. The self-winding calibre beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and offers 56 hours of power reserve.

The “ghost” dial is finished in a gradient mustard hue that darkens to black on the edges to match the case, matched with faux aged hands and markings.

Although the B80 is a new watch, the case has a factory-original patina. This is achieved by coating the case and then partially wearing off the black coating, revealing the case material underneath the coating.

Key facts and price

Bamford x Ace Jewelers Limited Edition B80 ‘Ace’

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.5 mm
Material: PVD coated titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Sellita SW300-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 56 hours

Strap: Cordura strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Direct from Bamford starting April 2, 2024 at 2:00 pm GMT
Price: £1,250

For more, visit bamfordlondon.com.