First seen in 2021, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar sports watch combines its signature complication and the bestselling integrated-bracelet design. Slated to be produced only during 2024, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon is a reference to Moser’s trademark gradient, or “smoked”, dials.

The new perpetual calendar takes stylistic minimalism even further than its predecessor. The Smoked Salmon version does away entirely with any markings on the dial, leaving the gradient dial almost entirely unadorned.

Initial thoughts

The new perpetual is typical Moser in both style and function. The colour and name are subtly amusing, reflecting the brand’s frequent use of low-key humour in its products. The “Tutorial” perpetual calendar was more literal but equally tongue-in-cheek. More broadly, “Smoked Salmon” is a clever as it adds another twist to the gradient dials that are now synonymous with Moser, which helps keep the concept fresh, despite it having been iterated numerous times.

Salmon aside, the latest Streamliner is a striking watch. Even though Moser has no shortage of minimalist watches, this one stands out for being so stark yet having a full featured perpetual calendar – and even a power reserve. Mechanically, the watch is identical to its predecessors, which is a good thing. The second-generation perpetual calendar inside is smartly constructed but also free of the bugs found in earlier iterations of the movement.

The Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon” is priced at US$54,900, which is competitive especially considering the unique features of the movement. Even though integrated-bracelet sports watches are commonplace now, this remains a notable proposition thanks to the movement.

Another sports watch

While the original Streamliner Perpetual Calendar also had a smoked-finish dial, it took a more conventional approach to the dial layout. It had both a minute track and power reserve scale, whereas “Smoked Salmon” has nothing. The vertically brushed dial has a copper-ish finish that darkens towards the edges, and practically nothing else. The power reserve hand seemingly floats at 10 o’clock, while the date window does a good job of being unobtrusive at four.

Legibility is good thanks to the usual Streamliner hands, which are batons containing an insert of Globolight, which is a ceramic composite containing Super-Luminova. Four hands sit on the central axis: hours, minutes, seconds, as well as a discreet pointer for the month, with each of the 12 hours representing a month of the year.

The steel case and bracelet remain identical; the case dimensions are 42.3 mm by 11 mm, which gives it a large footprint but relatively slim profile.

Visible through the back is the HMC 812 movement, a manual-wind calibre with a convenient seven-day power reserve. Sitting on the barrel bridge is the leap year indicator of the perpetual calendar, which has been placed on the back since it is primarily useful when setting the watch.

As one of Moser’s top-of-the-line calibres, the HMC 812 boasts extras like a escape wheel and pallet fork in hardened gold, as well as a modular balance assembly that can be swapped during servicing.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon
Ref. 6812-1201

Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height: 11 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 812
Functions: Hours, minutes, power reserve, and perpetual calendar
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 168 hours or seven days

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: No, but only in production till the end of 2024
Availability: At H. Moser & Cie. boutiques and retailers
Price: US$54,900

For more information, visit h-moser.com.