Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience.

With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event.

As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai.

The interview was edited for length and clarity.

The MB&F HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW

SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents.

Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers.

SJX: How do the independents relate to you personally?

HS: I have big respect for the independents because they function like startups and they have so many more challenges. But they are daring and they come up with the most impressive creations.

I like the fact that they’re not governed by a group, you know, that forces them to create commercial lines and things like that. They are always flexible with ideas for collaborations, so I really love the way they think.

They’re very dear to me because they were the first to support Dubai Watch Week in 2015 when we had Rebels of Time– they got what we wanted to do. And maybe because I come from the same generation, I feel like we relate more as well. I hope that they will dream they will always remain as free birds and not be constrained by too much bureaucracy.

Stephen McDonnell, the constructor best known for his work with MB&F, was one of the speakers at DWW

SJX: How did you curate the selection of the independents?

HS: We have a committee that creates that chooses the brands who are participating; My cousin Mohammed [Seddiqi, chief commercial officer of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons] is heading the committee.

We always make sure we have new watchmakers and new brands participating. We also meet a lot of them in Geneva or collectors tell us to pay attention to this watchmaker and that’s how it starts.

SJX: I understand not all of them exhibiting here are represented commercially by Seddiqi.

HS: We at Dubai Watch Week offer a few spaces [at no cost to independent watchmakers]. We only offer them to the independent brands who we feel can’t afford to participate or are hesitant to participate.

We extend the invitation to visit and tell them, just come and we host you. Even if you have one watch, just come with that one watch and let people see your work. It’s also for you to know what the market appetite is, and to meet your colleagues from the industry.

The main exhibition area of DWW

SJX: Seddiqi is a tastemaker in watches in the region, especially since you have all the independents.

HS: And we are also a trendsetter on how to communicate when it comes to the watch industry. I think the event showed the watch industry, which was always very closed and serious, that if you want to remain relevant in today’s market, you have to change your ways.

Myself, my team, and my cousins, we’re all relatively young compared to many people in the watch industry, so we have a different perspective on communication. And I think all brands should start thinking about the young and what they want and how they would like to receive content.

I remember it was extremely difficult to convince brands to create digital content. But then the pandemic came. And then you saw brands going on Zoom calls and meeting their collectors.

SJX: Many important brands are taking part in Dubai Watch Week, yet there are a lot of groups or brands that are trying to vertically integrate their distribution. How do you see your organisation with relative to that?

HS: My cousin Mohammed is a better person to answer this question. But we always advise the brands not to do that. Because local retailers have the strength and connection with the clients.

SJX: And nobody else can pull off something like [DWW].

HS: [Exactly], and we’ve had few brands who started to go on their own, but then they come back and say, ‘You know what, we think we should still do things together’. At some point, we will need each other.

SJX: As a multi-brand retailer, you’re the only one that can cultivate the collectors and educate them in a way that individual brands cannot.

HS: Exactly, individual brands can talk about themselves. But when you be in a multi-brand environment, then you get clients to explore other brands and have them make a decision on their own. As a retailer, we want the client to leave the boutique saying: ‘I bought a watch that I liked, and not watch it I was forced to buy.’

That’s why my cousin Mohammed created Vyntage, which is the first brand that we own. We’ve been in the business for 70 years but we’ve never done that. He has a lot of ideas because he’s on the ground with the clients and he’s passionate about watchmaking himself, so he’s always been the person the brands go to when it comes to launching new U.A.E. editions. With ownership [of our brand], he can be as creative as he wants. I think you will see a lot of impressive things coming out of Vyntage.

An example of Vyntage Horology’s offerings, the Purity Inner Circle that has a two-part grand feu enamel dial with applied numerals and blued steel hands

SJX: When I speak to some of the local collectors, all of them talk about how Dubai Watch Week has become an important event in the scene here. How do you see Dubai Watch Week relating to the broader collecting community here?

HS: Everybody waits for the date as it’s become a reunion to meet their friends, whether they’re flying in from abroad or coming from the U.A.E. We always make sure we give them a place for them to meet; that’s why we created the Collectors Lounge.

Watch collectors are very important to us. If you walk around just looking at people’s wrists, you will understand the magnitude of people who are here and the type of taste they have, but also how they influence each other on purchasing or supporting new watchmakers.

SJX: I met people from everywhere here, Canada, Mexico, Africa. Dubai Watch Week has also made Seddiqi famous internationally, beyond your home region. Is this part of your strategy, to grow your presence globally?

HS: We’ve always been respected in the industry, so people in the industry always knew Seddiqi since we were in this business for over 70 years. And events like Dubai Watch Week allow us to let people know who we are and what we’re doing for the industry. To be respected and known by people is something that we really cherish.

In terms of business, we cannot expand beyond our region, because of agreements that we have with the brands. So at the moment, we’re only in Dubai, but we’re looking at other cities and around the region.

One of several freestanding buildings erected at DIFC specifically for DWW

SJX: You mentioned you’re part of the next generation of leaders in the watch business. Besides Dubai Watch Week, how do you plan or what’s your vision for the evolution of Seddiqi and watch retail in the region?

HS: We seek to change things and to remain relevant, to keep this industry going. So our main focus will always be education. In the courtyard, you’ll see that WOSTEP is there. We already have possibly the biggest service centre in the region.

We’re seriously considering recruiting more people to study the art of watchmaking. We are soon going to open a watchmaker school here in Dubai, in collaboration with WOSTEP.

We want to keep our quality of after-sales service, but we also want to recruit more people into the watch industry, but not only as watchmakers. We want to broaden people’s accessibility to this industry. That’s why we always tell schools and universities, let your students come, because even designers can enter watchmaking.

That’s why Dubai Watch Week is no longer just an exhibition, but it’s a platform. So as a platform, we are going to be even more active in 2024, not only with the travelling Horology Forum but also creating pockets events.

SJX: So in 2024, Dubai Watch Week will be overseas again, like it was before [in London and New York]?

HS: The Horology Forum is always travelling. In January we’re going to start exploring cities as venues. We have requests of cities saying come back, but I think it’s worth exploring other cities so it will travel to a different city.

Back to top.

Singapore watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches has opened its newest Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) concept store in Pavilion Mall located in Kuala Lumpur prime shopping district. As the biggest of the retailer’s many stores, the new establishment will serve as Sincere’s flagship, not only in Malaysia but throughout Southeast Asia. 

Covering 5,000 square feet, this boutique is dedicated to independent watchmaking, as all SHH stores are. Amongst the 17 brands on offer are Greubel Forsey and H. Moser & Cie. Alongside the watches is a private lounge with a bar, and an upscale dining area.

The street-front facade with a custom LED screen

An further expansion of the SHH concept

Established almost two decades ago as a concept store focused on independent watchmaking, SHH is a vital part of Sincere, which was founded in 1954, making it Singapore’s oldest watch retailer. In 2020, fellow retailer Cortina Holdings acquired Sincere and revived the SHH concept, rolling it out in other markets including Taiwan and Thailand.

The store is set to offer timepieces from 17 mostly independent brands, including Parmigiani Fleurier and Ferdinand Berthoud. The offer, however, is diverse, ranging from the classical to the extravagantly modern with Jacob & Co. And limited editions crafted specifically for SHH Kuala Lumpur will be released in due time, as was the case with its boutique at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands.

The boutique’s interiors are embellished in gold and copper tones to echo the SHH logo. The timepieces are presented in podium capsules reminiscent of those found in a museum, accompanied by touchscreen display panels offering information about the watches and their respective brands.

The boutique offers a secluded lounge for clients and enthusiasts to delve into the world of watches, accompanied by a well-appointed bar for a tranquil browsing experience. Furthermore, there is a space for watchmaking masterclasses and other social events.

Lastly, the boutique features an exclusive dining venue on its second floor, capable of accommodating up to 16 clients. Complete with its own kitchen and bar, it provides a sophisticated setting for dining events.

The SHH boutique is located at the Pavilion Kuala Lumpur and is open daily from 10:00 am-10:00 pm. 

Lot 1M.01.00, 1M.03.00 & C3.10.1C,
168 Jalan Bukit Bintang,
Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia 55100

For more, visit Sincerewatch.com.

In the Les Cabinotiers collection for 2023, titled “Récits de Voyages”, Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from its historical international expansion for Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” – a quartet of unique timepieces, each featuring a micro-sculpted gold dials inspired by significant architectural landmarks in cities across Asia as well as Vacheron Constantin’s home of Geneva.

Initial thoughts

As a collection, Les Cabinotiers embodies the quintessence of haute horlogerie, placing a distinct focus on crafting highly decorated timepieces for those who exclusively pursue the highest standards in watchmaking and artisanal craftsmanship. Though these unique creations are not entirely novel – Blancpain debuted a series of similar watches several years ago – it is truly delightful to witness the brand consistently surpass conventional expectations and create wearable works of art for the wrist.

Among the four timepieces, a standout is the model featuring the entrance gate to Angkor Thom in Cambodia. The brand’s engravers have meticulously replicated every detail, capturing the foliage and serene visages of the past rulers of the Khmer Empire atop the temple. This intricate work is accomplished through hand engraving in various shades of gold. 

The choices of landmarks – namely two in China, one in Cambodia – no doubt reflect the brand’s client base. While it could be seen as a little incongruous to feature Geneva among these Asian wonders, it stands as a nice reminder of where everything started for this brand. 

Inspired by landmarks

The Memorable Places series draws significant inspiration from various architectural landmarks in Geneva and Asia, as depicted in 19th-century illustrations made by French lithographers. This era witnessed a rising interest in Asia among Westerners, a consequence of the growth of commerce following Western powers’ expansion in the region. Prospective collectors are being presented with four distinctive variations, each being a single-piece creation for their selection.

The first variation is the La Tour de l’Île, inspired by an illustration by the French lithographer Auguste Deroy (1823-1906). It is noteworthy that this location was the former site of Vacheron Constantin and its watchmaking workshops before their relocation to the nearby Quai des Moulins in 1875.

Following that is The Entrance Gate to Angkor Thom, portraying a 12th century temple of the Khmer Empire that covered present-day Cambodia. The dial draws heavily from a print by the French engraver Louis Delaporte (1842-1925), depicting the southern gateway to the temple.

The third creation is Old Summer Palace, the former Qing Dynasty palace that once housed an imperial collection of artworks and antiquities, along with European-style palaces and gardens built in the 18th century. Unfortunately, it was subsequently destroyed in 1860 by British and French forces during the Second Opium War.

Lastly, the fourth and final creation is Entrance Gate to Confucius Temple and Imperial College Museum, depicting the 14th-century Temple of Confucius within Beijing’s Forbidden City complex. The dial is largely inspired by a drawing from Emile Thérond (1821-1883), reproduced in a travelogue published in 1863.

With meticulous expertise, the craftsmen from the Les Cabinotiers workshop intricately crafted the various illustrations in painstaking detail. Employing precise dial-making techniques such as micro-sculpting and line-engraving, the brand’s craftsmen skilfully work on delicate gold plates ranging from 0.4 to 0.8 mm in thickness. The artists adhere to the constraint of not surpassing 0.1-0.2 mm in the engraving process.

This stringent limitation means that each dial requires no less than 200 hours of painstaking work with no room for error. Notably, in the case of the dials created for Angkor Thom and Old Summer Palace, the foliage of the trees has been intricately damascened, adding an extra layer of artistry to this meticulous craftsmanship.

Except for the La Tour de l’Île model, which is housed in 18k white gold, the other timepieces in the Memorable Places series are in 18k pink gold. All models share identical case dimensions, with a diameter of 40 mm and 9.10 mm high.

All four models from the series are equipped with the cal. 1120. Updated back in 2010, this self-winding movement with its ultra-thin characteristics, measures 28.40 mm in diameter and 2.45 mm thick, features an 18k oscillating weight fashioned in the shape of the brand’s emblem, the Maltese Cross.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places”
Ref. 2000C/000R-103C (Entrance Gate to Angkor Thom)
Ref. 2000C/000R-105C (Entrance Gate to Confucius Temple and Imperial College Museum)
Ref. 2000C/000R-104C (Old Summer Palace)
Ref. 2000C/000G-106C (Tour de l’Ile)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 9.1 mm
Material: 18k pink gold or white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not available

Movement: Cal. 1120
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: Each is a unique piece
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: Price on Request

For more information, visit Vacheron-constantin.com.

Christened “Récits de Voyages”, the Les Cabinotiers line-up for 2023 is all about captivating narratives told through unique timepieces, each recounting the historical expansion of the brand across diverse geographies. One of them evokes the mid-19th century when Vacheron Constantin forged its first commercial ties in China, reflecting the profound significance of the country for watchmaking in that era.

The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery “Dragon” pays homage to that historical relationship. This extraordinary timepiece features a grisaille enamel dial in green – the technique almost always relies on greys and blacks instead – that showcases the mythical five-clawed dragon, once the symbol of the Chinese emperor. The artisanal enamel dial is contained within a case fully set baguette-cut diamonds, alongside one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever, the cal. 1120.

Initial thoughts

The dial of the Les Cabinotiers Dragon showcases the grisaille technique that offers a distinct, high contrast and a clear focus on the mythical subject. Departing from the conventional grisaille approach of a monochromatic palette of greys, Vacheron Constantin opted for a unique twist by employing shaded green enamel to depict the majestic dragon. The colour manages to give the dragon more life than compared to a traditional black-and-grey grisaille dial, while still retaining the discreet elegance that is characteristic of the technique.

The result is remarkable and literally a canvas. The dial itself is all enamel and unaltered by any logo – the Vacheron Constantin emblem is instead printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal. But the discreet elegance mostly stops at the dial: the case is diamond set in its entirety and creates a striking visual impact.

Over the past 15 years, Vacheron Constantin has arguably narrowed the gap with its main competitor in the metiers d’art, namely Patek Philippe and its Rare Handcrafts collection. It’s clear that watches like the Grisaille Dragon demonstrate the very best of the brand’s in-house production.

Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages

This year’s Les Cabinotiers collection is Récits de Voyages, or “travel stories”, and commemorates the brand’s 19th-century international expansion. Each watch narrates distinct stages of this historical odyssey when founders Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron and François Constantin traversed the roads connecting Central Europe, South America, Scandinavia, and Asia during the 19th century.

The Grisaille Dragon is a reference to Vacheron Constantin’s first foray in China in the mid-19th century, something that would be echoed in the early 21st century when the brand became arguably the premier high horology marque in the country. On the dial is an easily recognisable motif from Chinese culture – the five-clawed dragon chasing a pearl. The five-clawed dragon was the symbol of the Emperor in many dynasties of China, including the Ming and Qing (princes, princesses, and other lesser nobility had to make do with a four-clawed dragon).

Vacheron Constantin introduced a novel take on the traditional grisaille enamelling technique for this dial, utilising green enamel instead of grey. The technique, however, remains the same. The image is created by painting, firing, and also scratching the surface to remove the enamel, creating a shaded image. The master enameller’s chiaroscuro reveals motifs with distinctive depth, with a lapped translucent enamel layer enhancing the depth and contrasts.

The grisaille enamel is combined with gem setting in a 40 mm 18k white gold case that features 146 baguette-cut diamonds and a reverse-set brilliant-cut diamond on the crown. This blend enhances the brilliance of the enamelling, marking a departure from convention where such watches are only set with gemstones on the bezel and typically feature more feminine motifs.

Inside is the cal. 1120, a self-winding movement celebrated for its ultra-thin design. Originally based on a Jaeger-LeCoultre ebauche but now produced in-house by Vacheron Constantin, the cal. 1120 boasts a thickness of just 2.45 mm.

It underwent a redesign in 2010 that included technical improvements as well as aesthetic upgrades like an 18k gold oscillating weight open worked to form a Maltese cross. Like most mechanical Vacheron Constantin movements, the cal. 1120 bears the Poincon de Geneve, which is underlined by the meticulous decoration, including Côtes de Genève, circular graining, chamfering, and straight-grained flanks. 

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon
Ref. 017C/000G-096C

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 8.90 mm
Material: White gold set with 146 baguette-cut diamonds
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Not available

Movement: Cal. 1120
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques only 
Price: Price on request

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Born from the official partnership between Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin, the Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition, facelifts the entry-level mode of the watchmaker’s signature “Bridge” line. Drawing inspiration from the Aston Martin DB12 grand tourer, the new timepiece merges horology and automotive inspiration.

Initial thoughts

The origin of Girard-Perregaux’s “Bridge” collection is entirely classical, starting in the 19th century with the Three Gold Bridges tourbillon pocket watches that were made in tiny numbers (including one sold to the President of Mexico).

The brand has modernised the line in recent years with the Neo Bridges and now adds to the mix a motorsport brand with a rich heritage, which further emphasises the sporty, contemporary nature of the design. The Neo Bridges fully embraces a forward-looking aesthetic, so the Aston Martin connection is natural considering the carmaker’s creations in the super-, hyper-, and concept-car space.

Admittedly, the changes to the Aston Martin edition are largely cosmetic, but they are done well. I think this edition offers a more appealing and more functional look than recent editions like the Earth and Sky that had fewer luminous components on the dial.

The only aspect of the watch that could be done better is the Aston Martin logo printed on the sapphire case back; I would have prefer a logo discreetly engraved on the rim of the case back.

However, the Aston Martin connection brings with it an increase in price, which is not reflected in any intrinsic upgrades, but that does not detract from the effectiveness of the design and cohesiveness of the collaboration.

A Fusion of Heritage and Innovation

The evolution of Girard-Perregaux’s trademark movement bridges is a pivotal aspect of the sporty feel of this edition. Simultaneously, the influence of Aston Martin is most evident in the colour, which is undoubtedly synonymous with English motorsports and carmakers.

Powered by the GP0840000-2164, the watch inverts the movement, placing the components typically found at the rear to the front. Dispensing with a conventional dial, the front of the watch is also the movement, and the aesthetic goes against traditional horological norms. The movement is a combination of frosted black bridges that contrast with the rubies and rhodium-plated wheels. And the inverted movement features luminescent hands that emit a green glow, echoing the British racing green livery.

The case is lightweight titanium, which makes sense for its 45 mm diameter, and covered in black DLC. Both the material and colour aim to evoke Aston Martin engineering, where lightness is paramount.

The Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition is a tangible embodiment of the Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin partnership that celebrates heritage and modernity.

Key facts and price

Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition
Ref. 84000-21-3236-5CX

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 12.18 mm
Material: Titanium DLC
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. GP084000-2164
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with fabric effect and green stitches with folding buckle

Limited edition: 250 pieces
Availability: Available at Girard-Perregaux retailers.
Price: US$37,700 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit Girard-Perregaux.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Girard-Perregaux.

Having expanded its range of chronographs with a homage to stopwatches and, more recently, new models inspired by the Kinetic Chronograph, Seiko now introduces a pair of vintage-inspired chronographs.

The Prospex Speedtimer (SRQ047 and SRQ049) features a distinctively retro style reminiscent of the 1970s and sports a “panda” style dial but with a more compact case than its predecessor.  The “panda” SRQ047 is regular production while the “reverse panda” SRQ049 is a limited edition to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Seiko wristwatch.

Initial thoughts 

Since its introduction in 2021, the Speedtimer had quite a significant design flaw – its bulky case, measuring over 15 mm high. Therefore, it’s highly gratifying to learn that the brand has opted to refresh the Speedtimer with a more traditional dial and a slimmer case size.

Concerning its design, the new models evoke a sense of familiarity by featuring a more rounded case in contrast to the previous Speedtimer models. Furthermore, the brand has introduced a dash of colour to the “panda” style dial by adding an orange tip to the chronograph hands.

The limited edition reverse panda model.

However, it’s worth noting that the watch has a date window located between four and five. This feature seems somewhat out of place and could have been omitted for a more streamlined look.

The standard production Speedtimer is priced at US$2,500, with an additional US$200 for the limited edition. The new models prove to be more economical than their predecessors, all the while upholding a high standard in terms of their build quality and construction.

A pair of retro-inspired chronographs 

The SRQ047 and SRQ049 stand as the most recent additions to Seiko’s sports chronograph, the Prospex Speedtimer, which made its debut in 2021. Diverging from the initial models, these new Speedtimers feature a vintage-inspired aesthetic, adopting a traditional chronograph design with three registers, a date window located at four and five, and classic pump pushers positioned at two and four.

The model is being offered in two variations: a standard edition featuring a “panda” style dial characterised by its white background and black registers (SRQ047), and a limited edition sporting a “reverse panda” design, where the dial is blue grey and accompanied by silver white registers (SRQ049), with 1,000 pieces being made. Both versions of the new Speedtimer feature an orange-coloured tip on all of the chronograph hands.

However, a focal point of the new Speedtimer is its rounded case profile, characterised by a more compact size, measuring 42 mm wide and 14.6 mm high. It is marginally slimmer than the current production models, with the case being smaller by 0.5 mm and thinner by 0.5 mm.

The new Speedtimer comes with a novel multi-linked bracelet reminiscent of those found on 1970s Seiko chronographs, albeit with a modern three-fold clasp featuring a push-button. In line with the majority of its current Prospex lineup, Seiko has employed a “super-hard coating” on the case, improving scratch resistance in keeping with the brand.

Powering the chronographs is the automatic cal. 8R48 which is placed underneath a closed case back. Found in Presage chronograph models, the movement features a vertical clutch and column wheel, provides a 45-hour power reserve while offering a higher frequency of 4 Hz.

Key facts and price

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph
Ref. SRQ047 (white & black)
Ref. SRQ049 (blue-grey)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 8R48
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with additional leather strap (only for the SRQ049)

Limited edition: Regular production, except for the SRQ049 (1,000 pieces)
Availability: At Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting December 2023
Price:
White & black: US$2,500
Blue-grey: US$2,000

For more information, visit Seikowatches.com.

There was plenty to see and do around Dubai Watch Week 2023, which just concluded last weekend. Wandering around the glittering hall with showcases full of new releases, and you might run into Rexhep Rexhepi, Maximilian Büsser, and Kari Voutilainen. Punctuating all of this, however, were the insightful panel discussions that happened over the course of Dubai Watch Week (DWW), which was organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East.

Covering a wide array of topics and including speakers from an even wider background, it was possible to dip in and out of these discussions throughout the fair. Luckily, they were all recorded and are now available on the DWW YouTube channel. So if you weren’t able to attend the show, or you found yourself stuck between one booth and the next, you can catch up on them at any time.

Inside the exhibition hall of DWW

The best session of the fair was undoubtedly the in-depth talk given by talented watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell that we quickly recommended in real time. Mr McDonnell provided incredible detail about his work and philosophy in a talk that summarised his horological mind. But we wanted to give some more highlights from across the programme beyond Mr McDonnell, as there is plenty to dig in to.

Stephen McDonnell at DWW

The first talk of the show focused on a hot button topic, the role of retailers and the allocation of popular watches.

Moderated by British journalist Robin Swithinbank, it featured Mohammed Seddiqi, chief commercial officer of Seddiqi Holdings; Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard; and Patrick Chalhoub, Group President of Chalhoub Group, a luxury fashion distributor in Dubai.

Having the voice of a retail expert from another luxury sector that isn’t watchmaking brought an interesting dynamic to this discussion. It brought another perspective to what can often be an echo chamber of complaints when talking about waitlists and allocation.

When the familiar “For Exhibition Only” topic came up, Mr. Scheufele was quick to point out that maintaining staff levels of highly trained watchmakers is not easy, and without a rise in the number of people able to make complex watches, the supply can never reach demand. Overall, an interesting discussion for anyone who has found themselves on the wrong end of a waitlist, with perspectives from inside and outside the industry.

Another worthwhile discussion arising from a topic that often heightens emotions was Spare Me: Is Aftersales and After Thought? The sessions provided insight into how after-sales service currently works, and some ideas about how it may improve.

It included interesting mix of panellists that spanned the breadth of this issue. The session was moderated by Nicholas Towndrow, General Manager of independent workshop Swiss Watch Services, and he was joined by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia; Jean-Claude Eggen the chief executive of La Joux-Perret; and Pascal Ravessoud, who leads the Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH).

During this hour-long discussion, Mr. Eggen revealed the process of developing a new movement often includes very little, if any, thought to servicing and ensuing spare parts. Some brands, however, do take the long-term view. He added an anecdote that a La Joux-Perret client recently placed 150 orders for spares for a particular movement for economies of scale.

Hearing perspectives from those who work on mass-manufactured movements contrasted with that of Mr. Rexhepi, who makes very few watches and sees only a handful of them come back for servicing each year. This juxtaposition of perspectives enriched this discussion, which is well worth a watch.

Another excellent panel examined the current state of independent watchmaking and how it might be at risk of falling victim to big money buyouts, or the “Walmart effect”.

Moderated by Gary Getz, an enthusiastic collector, it included Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie.; Amr Al Otaishan, a board member of music-box maker Reuge; and Mishal Kanoo, a prominent Emirati businessman. They four covered an interesting topic, one that brings up a lot of questions about how the segment will grow.

There are plenty of other discussions which took place over the week and I encourage you to go through them all as there is plenty to discover. The entire programme displayed great ambition and promises even more in store for 2025, when the next DWW will take place.

Recognised by its distinctive dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, the Longines Legend Diver pays homage to history while embracing modern enhancements. Already a mainstay of Longines’ reissue sports watches, the Legend Diver has undergone a transformation and now features a redesigned and smaller 39 mm case that faithfully echoes the original (while it predecessor was 41 mm).

Initial thoughts

The new Legend Diver carefully retains the vintage styling of its predecessor. Traditionalists will appreciate the absence of the date that was found on the prior version. The absent dial preserves the dial’s clean and uncluttered aesthetic.

But the new Legend Diver is not just a remake. Inside is the cal. 888.6, an upgraded ETA calibre that stands out with a 72-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance that exceeds the ISO 764 standard by ten times thanks to a silicon hairspring.

And the dial similarly retains the design of the vintage original, but is executed in a modern manner with two colours of Super-Luminova, green and blue. This not only adds a touch of excellence to the design but also enhances readability in low-light conditions.

On its face, the downsizing to 39 mm may not align with the conventions of a tool watch, especially one conceived for diving. However, this shift in size caters better to daily wear and better reproduces the original’s dimensions. Unfortunately, the reduction in diameter doesn’t go hand in hand with a decrease in thickness, so the case has somewhat unbalanced proportions with a height of 12.97 mm.

The facelift Legend Diver maintains of its predecessor as a tool watch, thanks to the enduring design. Like all watches, the price has crept up over time and this starts at US$3,200, but still aligns with Longines’ focus on value for money.

Historical innovation

In 1959, Longines made waves with the ref. 7042, a diver’s watch equipped with a “Super-Compressor” case incorporating two screw-down crowns and an internal bi-directional rotating bezel. Although several brands offered such dive watches at the time, Longines’ is one of the best known even today.

Fast forward to the present day and the modern-day Legend Diver retains the styling of the original but with modern updates. It’s a dive watch that meets the ISO 6424 standard for such watches and has water resistance of 300 meters. And that’s playing it safe: the ISO standard further requires water resistance testing to 25% over the stated rating.

Available in black or blue lacquer, the dial uses blue and green Super-Luminova to differentiate the markings on the dial. The baton markers, Arabic numerals, and hour hand glow green, while the rest of the dial elements glow blue. This thoughtful combination serves a practical purpose and adds an appealing detail to the dial.

The 39 mm steel case is finished with alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces, and fitted with a domed sapphire crystal that adds a touch of vintage sophistication. Like the original, the case back features a stamped emblem of a skin diver. But the case back features a modern innovation: it always screws down with perfect alignment as it is a bayonet-lock type screw mechanism.

Inside is the cal. L888.6, a heavily upgraded take on the EAT 2892, the Legend Diver has a commendable 72-hour power reserve. A silicon balance spring ensures enhanced magnetic resistance.

Key facts and price

Longines Legend Diver
Ref. L3.764.4.50.0 (black dial, leather strap)
Ref. L3.764.4.50.6 (black dial, bracelet)
Ref. L3.764.4.90.2 (blue dial, NATO strap)
Ref. L3.764.4.90.6 (blue dial, bracelet)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 12.97 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. L888.6
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with folding clasp or strap with tongue buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Longines boutiques, retailers and Longines.com
Price:

Black dial: US$3,200 or 4,820 Singapore dollars (strap or bracelet)
Blue dial: US$3,000 or 4,490 Singapore dollars (strap); US$ 3,200 or 4,820 Singapore dollars (bracelet)

For more information, visit Longines.com.

Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production.

The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot.

Initial thoughts

The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody  Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model.

First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch. 

Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women.

The Only Watch edition

The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art.

Though this is a relatively large edition of 50 watches, word has it that this will be the final collaboration between the two, which would make this quite special.

Japanese artist Takashi Murakami with Hublot chief executive, Ricardo Guadalupe. Image – Hublot

A blossoming collaboration

The collaboration between Murakami and Hublot began in 2012, resulting in a series of artistic timepieces. The inaugural creation was the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black, followed by editions like the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Rainbow and the Black Ceramic Rainbow. All three, however, were variants of the same time-only model.

The MP-15, on the other hand, is equipped with a new movement that boasts Hublot’s inaugural central flying tourbillon. To accommodate the tourbillon, the hours and minutes are on the periphery of the dial, achieved by repositioning the cannon pinion and hour wheel around the tourbillon cage.

It also has an impressive 150-hour power reserve. Fortunately, the twin barrels inside the movement can be wound with a rechargeable tool that swiftly completes the 100 turns of the crown needed to fully wind the watch.

The case is a clear sapphire flower made up of 12 petals, a form that is central to Mr Murakami’s art. The case, back, crown, and dial are all clear sapphire, giving the watch a surprisingly degree of transparency.

Key facts and price

Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire
Ref. 915.JX.4802.RT

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.4 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Polished Sapphire Crystal
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. HUB9015
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Manual winding
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 150 hours

Strap: Transparent decorated rubber with sapphire crystal and titanium folding buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Available at Hublot boutiques, retailers and online
Price: US$316,000

For more, visit Hublot.com.

Focusing on the intersection of design and Islamic culture, Cartier, Islamic Inspiration and Modern Design has just opened at the Louvre Abu Dhabi. On show till March 2024, the exhibition underscores the significant influence of Islamic arts and culture on the design evolution of Cartier’s jewellery and objet d’art.

The exhibition chronicles how Louis Cartier, the grandson of the brand’s founder, cultivated an interest in Islamic art in the 1910s. He enhanced the maison’s library and established a collection, providing likely inspiration for its designers in crafting Orientalist-style jewellery. Following this, Jacques Cartier, Louis’s brother, brought an added dimension into the mix by incorporating South Asian and Arabian styles and arts after his journeys to meet the brand’s esteemed clientele in those regions. 

Jacques Cartier in the Middle East. Image – Cartier.

To shape this narrative, the exhibition’s curators, Evelyne Possémé and Judith Henon, traced Cartier’s creative design process by showcasing the various influences and styles that inspired its creation.

The exhibition displays over 400 artworks from Louvre Abu Dhabi, Paris museums such as the Musée du Louvre and Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and various public and private collections. It also includes various drawings, photographs, and other materials from the brand’s own collection.

Prominent features of the exhibition include a stepped merlon showcasing floral motifs from Iran, dating back to the 10th to 11th centuries, sourced from the Louvre Paris. This is juxtaposed with two 1937 Cartier tiaras from the brand’s collection crafted from platinum and gold, adorned with Arabic patterns and studded with precious stones, including diamonds, aquamarine, and citrine.

The exhibition, crafted by the American interdisciplinary design studio Diller Scofidio + Renfro, will also incorporate an immersive digital space featuring expansive animations that delve into the diverse Cartier pieces and their sources of inspiration.

Alongside this, two “infinity rooms” will offer a captivating 180-degree visual experience, complemented by light projections on the museum’s facade narrating the travel adventures of Jacques Carter from Marseille to Muharraq.

Cartier, Islamic Inspiration and Modern Design takes place from November 16, 2023 to March 24, 2024 at the Louvre Abu Dhabi. It is open to the public from Tuesday to Thursday, 10:00 am-6:30 pm and Friday to Sunday, 10:30 am-8:30 pm.

Tickets are available for purchase online or at the museum’s premises.

Louvre Abu Dhabi
Saadiyat Cultural District
Abu Dhabi
United Arab Emirates 

For more information, visit Louvreabudhabi.ae.