The Best of the Indies at Christie’s Hong Kong
From the renowned to the underrated.
Christie’s autumn sale season in Hong Kong is led by Important Watches, a 146-lot sale featuring independent watchmaking, reflecting the genre’s current popularity. Notably, the season will also feature the first sale of the OAK Collection belonging to French collector Patrick Getreide.
In this compilation, we examine nine lots by independents ranging from watchmakers that are practically establishment now, like Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. Amongst the highlights from the OAK Collection are several unique watches made for past Only Watch auctions, one of the rare occasions these one-off watches are returning to market.
Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begins at at 1:00 pm on November 26 – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection sale (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Both sales take place at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
Lot 2242: Gerald Genta Arena Mickey Mouse
With the revival of Gerald Genta by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), there has been a renewed interest in the timepieces it crafted in the past. Watches produced during the era when the brand was owned Bulgari have received less attention, although some are equally interesting, like this Arena Mickey Mouse.
Gerald Genta debuted its Fantasy line featuring Disney characters in the 1990s. That evolved into the Arena Fantasy in the 2000s, which included this particular 80-piece edition made in around 2009. The watch combines the familiar retrograde display that’s synonymous with the Fantasy line with the larger, sportier Arena case in titanium.
The watch has a bi-retrograde display with Mickey’s arm indicating the date on the sub-dial at six. Minutes are read with the large red hand against the retrograde scale, while the hours are in the aperture at 10.
The retrograde display is powered by an in-house jumping hour module on top of a Girard-Perregaux automatic movement.
The case design retains elements of the earlier Gerald Genta design but enlarges it to 45 mm for a maximalist, sporty aesthetic. Because it is titanium, the case remains lightweight, notwithstanding its size.
Limited to only 80 pieces, this example is accompanied by its presentation box and its outer packaging. The Arena “Mickey Mouse” carries an estimate of HK$48,000-95,000 or about US$6,150-12,170. Full lot details here.
Lot 2249: Roger Dubuis Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Early Roger Dubuis timepieces, inspired by traditional Geneva watchmaking but distinguished by stylistic flair, have gained popularity in recent years. They are no longer the value buys they once were, but some examples remain interesting, like this Sympathie with a a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar.
It was one of the brand’s first models and perhaps the most distinctive thanks to the cushion-shaped case with sharpened corners. The present example has a classical aesthetic with an ivory dial and an Art Deco-ish typeface, matched with spear-shaped hands.
Housed in an 18k white gold case measuring 37 mm by 47 mm, it is powered by a Lemania movement equipped with a bi-retrograde calendar module.
The unusual calendar display was born from a collaboration between Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, founder of complications specialist Agenhor, and originally developed for New York jeweller Harry Winston.
This Sympathie without any accessories. It has an estimate of HK$160,000-320,000 million or about US$20,500-41,000.
For more, view the catalogue entry.
Lot 2252: F.P. Journe LineSport Chronographe Rattrapante
The F.P. Journe Line Sport Chronographe Rattrapante remains a compelling choice among split-second chronographs, both for its intrinsic features as well as its competitive retail price.
This example is a second-generation titanium model that does away with the rubber inserts found on the first-generation. The manually wound, single-button split-second chronograph movement inside, however, remained the same.
In the interest of lightness, the cal. 1518 is unique to the titanium version as it has the bridges and plates in aluminium, instead of the 18k red gold that is the norm for F.P. Journe movements.
This example dates from 2020 and has its original presentation box and guarantee card. It has an estimate of HK$600,000-1.2 million, or about US$77,000-154,000.
For more, view the catalogue entry.
Lot 2578 (OAK Collection): H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch 2019
The OAK Collection includes several unique timepieces made for Only Watch, one of which is the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept, distinguished by its minimalist interpretation of the moon phase.
The dial is simplified to its fundamentals, showing just hours, minutes, and seconds hands, along with a lone moon phase display at six, deliberately doing away with any markings. The dial elements are set again a backdrop of Vantablack – the darkest synthetic material ever produced – so the dial seemingly disappears, leaving the hands and moon to float.
Inside is the HMC 801 that incorporates a continuously moving moon phase display designed to closely mirror the actual lunar cycle, resulting in a deviation of just one day after 1027.3 years.
The piece unique was made for Only Watch 2019 where it sold for CHF48,000. It is accompanied by its original presentation box, accessories and literature.
The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch 2019 carries an estimate of HK$480,000-950,000, or about US$61,500-122,000.
For more, view the catalogue entry.
Lot 2579 (OAK Collection): Voutilainen GMT-6 Only Watch 2015
Kari Voutilainen is widely regarded as one of the foremost independent watchmakers. In 2015, he created a special version of the GMT-6 dual-time for the Only Watch charity auction. Besides a case in steel, the GMT-6 is also distinguished by its guilloche dial with champleve enamel decoration.
The dial is a testament to Voutilainen engine-turning, an intricate process requiring meticulous repetitive engraving on a solid gold disc that is then plated and finally covered with translucent fired enamel, a technique known as champleve. The same process is repeated, but on a smaller scale, for the GMT register at six o’clock.
The GMT function is made up of a day/night disc that shows the second time zone on a 24-hour scale with a fixed triangular pointer at the 60-second mark. The disc is advanced in one hour steps by pressing the crown, a convenient approach to a useful complication.
Powering the watch is the signature Voutilainen cal. 28 with its distinctive 13.60 mm-diameter free-sprung balance fitted with a balance spring featuring Breguet and Grossmann curves as well as rose gold inertia blocks.
Also part of the OAK Collection, the Voutilainen GMT-6 is a full set. It carries an estimate of HK$1.6-3.2 million, or about US$205,100-410,300.
Full lot details here.
Lot 2584 (OAK Collection): F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche “20th Anniversary”
Released in 2021 as a limited edition of 99 pieces, the Octa Réserve de Marche was a historical remake of sorts to mark the 20th anniversary of the Octa automatic calibre. Being relatively recent and made in small numbers, it has rarely emerged on the secondary market.
The Octa Réserve de Marche was launched in 2001 as F.P. Journe’s first model with an automatic movement. About 800 pieces were produced from 2001 to 2014, with variations in dial, case material, and case diameter.
The anniversary Octa paid homage to the original by replicating many of its defining features, including a rhodium-plated brass movement – revived for this but otherwise discontinued in 2004 – along with a shiny gold dial.
The 40mm platinum case sticks to F.P. Journe’s classic aesthetic, while the yellow gold dial has a reflective, grained finish that mirrors the dials found on the original run of Octa watches made from 2001 to 2004 series.
In pristine condition and numbered 34 out of 99, this is offered as a full set and has an estimate of HK$800,000-1.6 million or about US$102,600-205,100.
For more, visit the catalogue.
Lot 2592 (OAK Collection): Voutilainen 28TAI
The 28TAI was a limited edition of only ten. “TAI” is short for “tantalum Inverse”, describe the case material and model.
Introduced in 2019, the Inverse is a variation of Voutilainen’s classic Vingt-8, with the same movement but flipped around to show most of the escapement and oversized balance wheel on the front.
Only 28 Inverse watches were produced, with 10 in platinum, 10 in tantalum, and eight in titanium, excluding any special-order pieces. The present tantalum example is three of ten.
With blued steel tips and centres, the steel hands are a signature Voutilainen feature that contribute to the overall aesthetic refinement. Additionally, the tantalum case is paired with a pale blueseconds ring, providing visual appeal that distinguishes this from other variants of the Inverse.
The in-house movement remains largely identical, with the direct impulse escapement that incorporates two escape wheels, but with additional gearing to place the hands on the movement side. Because the movement is inverted, the trademark Voutilainen adjustable-mass balance takes pride of place on the front, while the power reserve and seconds are relegated to the back.
Noteworthy technical details of the inverted cal. 28 include wheels made of rose gold and a direct-impulse escapement featuring two escape wheels, a variation of Breguet’s échappement naturel, adding a layer of technical sophistication to the timepiece’s design.
Offered with its presentation box and its accessories, the present watch has an estimate of HK$1.8-3.6 million or about US$230,800-461,500.
Full lot details here.
Lot 2593 (OAK Collection): Akrivia AK-06
Known for its meticulous attention to decoration, the visible and concealed components in Akrivia movements are impeccably finished. The AK-06 shows off this impeccable finishing best, as it has an open-worked dial as well as display back.
Introduced in 2017 at Baselworld, the AK-06 was Akrivia’s first watch without a tourbillon, and instead a time-only with subtle mechanical intricacies. More notably, it was the brand’s first watch with an in-house movement.
This example of the AK-06 is a custom order with a stainless steel case and dark blue dial, which is actually the base plate of the movement. At eight o’clock sits a small plate engraved “PU”, short for piece unique.
The open-worked midnight-blue face shows off the mechanics that would ordinarily be concealed under the dial. Notable complications are a power reserve display at 12 o’clock, operated by a rack and pinion system with an opposing rack and arc indicator.
At six, the running seconds display includes a stop feature for precise settings. Pulling the crown halts the seconds and instantly resets them to zero, a process similar to that in a chronograph.
The AK-06 has a 4 1mm in the contemporary AK form that incorporates distinctive design elements like a recessed crown, bevel-edged wide lugs, and a crown guard.
The movement, visible from the front and back, has the symmetrical architecture that is an Akrivia signature. This is most evident on the back where the large centre wheel is secured by a polished steel bridge and above it, a single barrel offering a 100-hour power reserve. The in-house variable inertia balance with adjustable weights sits at four o’clock, with the third wheel just across from it for visual balance.
The present lot is offered with its presentation box, accessories and outer packaging. It has an estimate of HK$3.2-6.4 million or about US$410,260-820,500.
To know more, view the listing here.
Lot 2594 (OAK Collection): Akrivia AK-01
Akrivia made its debut in 2013 with the AK-01, a wristwatch featuring a tourbillon and single-button chronograph. Founder Rexhep Rexhepi aimed to create a technically advanced, finely finished watch in a contemporary case. For the movement, he turned to movements specialist MHC for the ebauche.
This AK-01 is encased in brushed titanium with a recessed crown and bevel-edged wide lugs, matched with a copper-colour dial.
Though the movement blank was made by MHC, the AK-01 movement was entirely decorated by Akrivia. This includes hand-polished angles on the interior and exterior flanks, manual circular graining, and the manual finishing of steel components, underscoring the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship.
The dial has the constant seconds at two, a 30-minute register at ten, and a power reserve indicator just below, while the chronograph’s column wheel is visible at 12 through a dial aperture.
Offered as a complete set, the AK-01 has an estimate of HK$4.0-8.0 million or about US$512,800-1.025 million.
Find the lot details here.
Preview and auction details
All lots will be on show during the preview in Hong Kong during the run-up to the auction. Both the preview exhibition and sale will happen at the Halls 3C to 3E of the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
Halls 3C-3E, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre
1 Harbour Road
Wanchai, Hong Kong
Preview
November 25, 10:30 am – 6:30 pm
November 26, 10:30 am – 12:00 pm
Auction
November 26, 1:00 pm (lots 2201-2343)
November 26, 6:30 pm (lots 2501-2639)
All times and dates are local to Hong Kong (GMT+8).
The catalogues for both sessions are online – the first includes the Important Watches sale and the second comprises watches from the OAK Collection.
This was brought to you in collaboration with Christie’s.
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