MB&F Introduces the HM11 Architect

A futurist home for the wrist.

MB&F has introduced its latest Horological Machine, the HM11 Architect, inspired by 1960s futurist architecture. Featuring a central flying tourbillon surrounded by four polished titanium lobes, three of which contain dials, the HM11 offers a novel rotating case that pulls double duty as an enormous winding crown.

Designed by longtime collaborator Eric Giroud, the HM11 takes cues from habitology, an architectural movement of the late 1960s that challenged conventional norms for domestic buildings, preferring organic forms to straight walls and rectangular windows. 

Initial thoughts

As someone who favours traditional design, I usually find Horological Machines a tad large and a bit ostentatious. But the HM11 is more compact and sleeker than its specs suggest.

In fact, the HM11 is the most traditional Horological Machine yet on the wrist, with a round 42 mm case and simple lugs. It has a surprisingly small footprint on the wrist, though it is tall, standing 23 mm at its highest, so it’s not for the faint of heart (or the long-sleeved). 

Yet even by the sculptural standards set by previous Horological Machines, the HM11 feels ambitious, particularly in the case construction. The complex form of the case, for example, requires 19 gaskets to ensure 20 m of water resistance.

There are also numerous hidden details, like a proprietary shock dampening system adapted from the aerospace industry, that contribute to an overall package that is deeply satisfying; the longer you look the more you discover.  

I was initially sceptical of the inclusion of a thermometer, which struck me as a gimmick. Compared to the power reserve display, which makes perfect sense in a watch that features both a lengthy power reserve and a novel winding mechanism, the thermometer seemed like an afterthought.

But after consideration it makes sense in the context of the HM11’s domestic inspiration, since a thermostat is an almost universal feature of the modern home. Furthermore, the execution is outstanding and traditional since it relies on a bimetallic strip just like 19th century pocket watches.

In terms of value, there are certainly cheaper ways to get a flying tourbillon, but MB&F has few peers in the niche of haute horlogerie characterised by these kinds of design-forward kinetic sculptures, making such comparisons largely irrelevant. 

Mid-century futurism for the wrist

Instantly recognisable as a Horological Machine, the HM11 nonetheless breaks new ground for MB&F in terms of its user interface. While the HM11 features a traditional crown for setting the time, winding is accomplished by rotating the entire watch case clockwise. 

The rotating case gives the watch multiple personalities by enabling the wearer to cycle through the various displays like a carousel and choose whether to view the time, the power reserve, or the temperature in their line-of-sight. 

Furthermore, this construction increases winding efficiency; the 42 mm diameter of the watch case provides far more leverage than a typical winding crown, reducing the number of rotations needed to wind the watch. In fact, a 45-degree rotation is enough to generate 72 minutes of running time, and just 10 complete rotations results in a full power reserve of 96 hours. 

While previous Horological Machines have taken inspiration from seventies sports cars, WWII fighter planes, jellyfish, and spaceships, the HM11 is the first Horological Machine to take direct inspiration from modern architecture.

Looking at the HM11, the architectural influences are clear. In profile, the case shape reminds me of the Futuro Pod, a type of round, prefabricated house designed by Finnish architect Matti Suuronen in the 1960s. While Futuro Pods never became mainstream, they have become symbolic of the kind of jet-age futurism that MB&F often celebrates with its Horological Machines.

The markers for the time and power reserve displays are made of polished aluminium spheres and smaller, darker titanium spheres. For the power reserve, the relative sizes of the spheres indicate the remaining running time, with the largest sphere, at 2.4 mm in diameter, indicating a full wind.

Like all Horological Machines since the HM3, the HM11 is a driver’s watch, meaning the time is read not from the top but rather from the side. The HM11 takes this concept even further with its rotating case, enabling the wearer to choose which of the three dials is in view at any given time. 

The HM11 also includes a relatively unusual complication and a first for the brand: a thermometer. While thermometers were once fairly common in large precision clocks and even some pocket watches, they are rarely used in wristwatches.

Available with either a Celsius or Fahrenheit scale, the thermometer is capable of displaying temperatures between -20° and 60° Celsius, or 0° to 140° Fahrenheit. The thermometer works using a coiled bimetallic strip, which expands and contracts as temperatures change.

This principle has a long history in horology dating back to the early marine chronometers of the mid-eighteenth century, which used this principle to adjust the effective length of hairsprings. Later, this technology was used to create the first temperature compensating balance wheels, which were a staple of all high-grade watches until they became obsolete with the introduction of modern alloys like Glucydur.


Key facts and price

MB&F HM11 Architect

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 23 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: HM11
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, and temperature
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 96 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with titanium tang buckle

Limited edition: Yes, 50 pieces (25 with blue dial plate and 25 with red gold dial plate)
Availability: At MB&F M.A.D. Galleries and eShop, as well as retailers
Price: CHF198,000 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit MB&F.com.


 

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The Logic and Lavishness of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Ref. 5260

Sertissage and complications.

Unveiled barely a week after the reasonably traditional Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref. 5260 is unexpected, over the top, and entirely logical. It’s available in two variants, the simpler ref. 5260/355R-001 on a strap and the no-expense-spared ref. 5260/1455R-001 that’s set with gemstones on practically every surface, even the hour and minute hands.

Now the most expensive ladies’ watch in the Patek Philippe catalogue – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 on bracelet costs CHF2.5 million with taxes – the ref. 5260 is a first in several ways.

It’s the first Patek Philippe sports model with a minute repeater, and also the first ladies’ sports model with a “grand” complication. In fact, the ref. 5260 is the most complicated sports model of any kind, with the next-most-complicated being the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740.

The ref. 5260/1455R-001

Initial thoughts

I can certainly comprehend the appeal of the ref. 5260, even though it’s evidently not a watch catered to me. As far as crazily over-the-top ladies watches with impressive sertissage and impeccable horological credentials go, it doesn’t get any better than this.

Mechanically the ref. 5260 is identical to Patek Philippe’s revered minute repeating models since it is powered by the R 27, the longstanding self-winding movement found in the current ref. 5178 and all the way back to the ref. 3979. In acoustic and watchmaking terms, the Aquanaut repeater is on par with its classical counterparts.

The “simpler” ref. 5260/355R-001

The packaging, however, is understandably controversial, but no less impressive in terms of craft. The ref. 5260 is a masterpiece of gem-setting – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 even has a brilliant-cut diamond on the cannon of the hands. It could be described as the watch for someone who finds the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” is too basic.

More broadly, the ref. 5260 is also a watch that is current, it captures today’s zeitgeist because it’s rainbow, highly complicated, (very) pricey, and a Patek Philippe.

Critics will point out it’s the first sports model that isn’t water resistant, which is probably missing the point.

Contemporary watchmaking has long left genuine functionality behind, so the Aquanaut is arguably as much of a sports watch as the Rolex Deepsea is a professional diver’s watch. So the fact that the ref. 5260 is not water resistant, like all of Patek Philippe’s other minute repeaters, is not a shortcoming in my opinion.

Granted, it is possible to make minute repeaters water resistant, but Patek Philippe says it does not do so in order to ensure the very best sound. It’s a credible claim, even if the acoustic gains are probably minimal.

The commercial rationale behind this watch is undoubtedly the same as that underlying the ref. 5271 with sapphires or rubies or the fully gem-set Grandmaster Chime – sell the same number of watches, or even fewer, but for more money. It is even more logical given Patek Philippe’s recent acquisition of Salanitro, the watch industry’s leading gem-setting specialist.

By capitalising on its brand equity, particularly in complications, and deep pocketed customers who easily trade up, it’s a shrewd way of increasing revenue without upping production too much.

A chiming Aquanaut

Designed for women, the Aquanaut Luce line was introduced in 2004 with a line of diamonds around the sport watch’s bezel. Here the concept of fine gemstone setting inside the Aquanaut family is being taken to the extreme with a full spectrum of multicoloured sapphires and diamonds.

The ref. 5260 is available in two versions, the ultra-lavish ref. 5260/1455R-001 that is fully set with baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires, and the ref. 5260/355R-001 that dials back on the gemstones.

Both watches have similar dials, with paved diamonds laid out in the recognisable Aquanaut pattern at the centre, with multicoloured sapphires used for the 12 hour markers and the Patek Philippe logo applied in rose gold at 12.

Comparing the ref. 5260/1455R-001 (left) and ref. 5260/355R-001

By far the most striking is the version matching bracelet, the ref. 5260/1455R-001, with precious stones covering nearly every possible surface of the rose gold piece, totalling over 900.

Rainbow hued sapphires have been placed throughout the bracelet, on the lugs, the flank of the case and the repeater slide.

Its sibling, the ref. 5260/355R-001 is also impressive featuring gem setting on the dial, bezel and lugs, totalling 324. With a full array of baguette and brilliant cuts, with invisible settings to allow the stones to be fully visible and the most amount of light in.

This model is delivered with three synthetic rubber straps in beige, red, or white.

While we have recently seen gem-set versions of the Aquanaut with complicated movements inside, such as a flyback chronograph or annual calendar, the use of the cal. R 27 minute repeater elevates these references above those that have come before.

Featuring two classics gongs, which when activated chime the hours, quarters and minutes elapsed from the quarter, this calibre is found across a range of other Patek Philippe repeaters, and has been built on to include many other complications.

The micro-rotor allows for a full view of the movement through the sapphire caseback, displaying the traditional finishing that has been completed throughout.


Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie
Ref. 5260/1455R-001

Diameter: 38.8 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: Rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Humidity and dust-protected only

Movement: Cal. R 27
Functions: Hours, minutes and minute repeater
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with rainbow sapphires invisibly set throughout

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Patek Philippe boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF2.5 million including taxes


Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie
Ref. 5260/355R-001

Diameter: 38.8 mm
Height: 10.1 mm
Material: Rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Humidity and dust-protected only

Movement: Cal. R 27
Functions: Hours, minutes and minute repeater
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Composite strap in three different colours

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Patek Philippe boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF850,000 including taxes

For more information, visit patek.com.


 

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