Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller.

The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before.

Initial thoughts

The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold.

While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish.

In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands and indices are identical to those on the other Streamliner models and are arguably too soft for this high-contrast design.

But the dial is not empty thanks to the flying tourbillon at six. While some might prefer a hidden tourbillon, I find the exposed regulator does the job of showing off just enough to keep the dial interesting while preserving the overall minimalist theme.

At US$119,900, the Streamliner Vantablack Tourbillon is priced in line with tourbillon-equipped sports watches from comparable brands, but less than the offerings from establishment marques like Audemars Piguet. An all-gold sports watch can never be a value proposition, but this is reasonable enough considering the material, movement, and styling.

Black and gold

The Streamliner tourbillon naturally inherits the proportions of its predecessors, though on a smaller scale. Its case tourbillon is compact at just 40 mm wide, as opposed to 42.3 mm for the perpetual calendar model. The height is a thick 12.1 mm, however, which means it is not as sleek as one might hope.

The gold details continue onto the dial with hands and markers. Notably, the dial is a “sandwich” construction, with the hour markers being cutouts on the dial that reveal the batons below – this is more of a technical necessity than stylistic consideration that stems from the extreme fragility of the Vantablack coating. As a result of the construction, the hour markers can disappear from view depending on the light as well as angle.

Inside the watch is the in-house HMC 804, an automatic movement that has a three-day running time. But the highlight of the movement are the double hairsprings that beats in sync but in opposing directions. Together they result in a more concentric motion of the balance wheel, which enhances timekeeping stability.

Key Facts and Price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack
Ref. 6804-0400

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: 18k red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 804
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: 18k red gold bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At authorised retailers
Price: US$119,900

For more, visit H-moser.com.

Finnish through and through, Sarpaneva and its affordable sub-line S.U.F. Helsinki often turn to their native land for inspiration, as with the glow-in-the-dark Gothic fantasy of the recent Nocturne. Now S.U.F. is celebrating Valtteri Bottas, a Formula 1 driver nickname the “Flying Finn” who now races for Alfa Romeo.

The S.U.F Flying Finn is a pair of limited editions created in collaboration with Mr Bottas. The first is the VB77 in red and white that’s named after the driver’s car number, while the second is the FF-S dressed in white and silver. Both share a partially open dial that’s a first for an S.U.F. wristwatch.

FF-S

Initial thoughts

I’m not generally a fan of watches with racing stripes – and I didn’t warm up to earlier S.U.F watches with stripes – but the Flying Finn aesthetic works. In fact, it’s one of the few watches with an exaggerated racing look that works. The red-and-blue VF77 with its DLC-coated case is especially striking.

Mr Bottas with the VB77

The success of the design perhaps because of the partially-open dial along with the “bottle cap” bezel. And the tangible features of the watch also helps. Both models have the typical S.U.F. appeal, namely a highly quality case and well-made dial, along with an affordable price tag.

That’s relative, however, as the Flying Finn editions cost about double the entry-level 180 from S.U.F. that contains the same movement but inside a simpler case with a plainer dial.

VB77

FF-S

Racing time

Both Flying Finn editions share the same basic specs. Characterised by a prominent notched bezel, the case is a wide 44 mm but thin at just over 9 mm high. While the VB77 has a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating that gives it a charcoal finish, the FF-S has a matte brushing on the natural steel finish.

Notably, the case is a new design for S.U.F., which previously relied on a smaller, simpler case with a smooth bezel. The notched bezel evokes the fancier cases of Sarpaneva, which sells watches in a far higher price segment.

Also notable is the open-worked dial that has three vertical apertures. These form racing stripes and offer a peek into the mechanics, revealing the base plate and date wheel of the movement. The FF-S has a white dial with blue numerals, while the VB77 has a three-colour dial in red, blue, and white. In typical Sarpaneva style, the standard date wheel has been replaced with the brand’s own that has open-worked date numerals.

The seventh day of the month is replaced by a “77” in a nod to Mr Bottas

The movement is inside both is the A10, a workhorse calibre found in almost every Sarpaneva and S.U.F. model. Conceived by the movement manufacturer Soprod as an alternative to the ETA 2892, the A10 is based on the architecture of the Seiko 4L calibre but now made in Switzerland.

FF-S (left), and VB77

Key Facts and Price

S.U.F. Helsinki Flying Finn
Ref. FF-S (silver and white dial)
Ref. VB77 (red and white dial)

Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 9.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel (additional DLC coating for VB77)
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Soprod A10
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: 75 pieces for FF-S, and 77 pieces for VB77
Availability: Direct from S.U.F. Helsinki, with delivery in 1-2 months from order date
Price: €4,500 for FF-S, and €5,250 for VB77 (prices before taxes)

For more, visit Sufhelsinki.com.

One of the longest-lived models in Breguet’s line-up, the Classique Calendrier 7337 has been in the catalogue since the 1980s before being revamped in 2009 to give the model its current proportions.

Now Breguet has given the 7337 a gentle cosmetic makeover with a redesigned dial. Despite changing none of the fundamentals, the new dial gives the 7337 a distinctly different look that is amongst the most modern in the brand’s Classique collection.

Initial thoughts

The new 7337 modernises a longstanding model in Breguet’s lineup, one that was originally inspired by pocket watches the brand made in the 19th century. The redesign certainly succeeds in giving the 7337 a more contemporary flavour, so anyone who finds the original design overly old fashioned will appreciate the facelift.

However, the new look loses some of the classical elegance that defines Breguet in my opinion. And it also loses the quirky elegance that was characteristic of the original dial layout.

Design aside, the new 7337 is very much identical to the earlier model in terms of movement and construction, which means the quality is excellent, as is typical of Breguet. Considering the quality of build, materials – the guilloche dial for instance is solid gold – and the historically-significant brand name, the new 7337 is a reasonably priced proposition at US$43,000, which is identical to the earlier version and unchanged for several years.

Breguet pocket watch no. 3833, c. 1823

Symmetrical, mostly

Despite looking substantially different, the new 7337 only differs in terms of cosmetics. Fundamentally it remains identical to the earlier version.

The key differences in terms of design are the twin calendar windows and plaques for the brand and serial numbers. Both windows now have an angular outline with distinct corners, while the calendar discs are in a high-contrast dark blue. And the plaques are horizontal instead of arched.

The guilloche on the dial has also been scaled back, with the engine turning below the moon phase disc as well as the seconds register having been done away with. The result of these changes is a cleaner, modern look.

That said, one detail has been elaborated upon: the moon on the moon-phase display is a disc of solid gold that’s been hammered by hand to created a dimpled finish that evokes the real-life Moon.

The rest of the watch remains identical. The slim 39 mm case contains the cal. 502.3 QSE1, an ultra-thin movement that is evolved from a Frederic Piguet calibre originally launched in the 1970s. While the movement retains its signature off-centre rotor, it has been substantially upgraded since then, most notably with silicon escapement parts.

Key facts and price

Breguet Classique Calendrier 7337
Ref. 7337BB/12/9VU (white gold)
Ref. 7337BR/12/9VU (rose gold)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 9.95 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 502.3 QSE1
Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds; day and date; moon phase
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Alligator leather

Price: US$43,000, or 61,800 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Breguet.com.