One of the biggest watches on the market when it was introduced in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore is a landmark in the oversized-sports watch genre. Since then the model has been iterated into numerous variants and several sizes, while the first-generation originals have occasionally returned as limited editions. Now they are back for good as part of the regular collection at Audemars Piguet – but upgraded with the in-house cal. 4404 as well as quick-release bracelets and straps.

Nicknamed “evolution” by Audemars Piguet (AP), the new Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42 mm ref. 26238TI is being launched with a trio of watches that are a faithful take on the 1993 original, along with two new “Mega Tapisserie” dials in the same size.

The Offshore 42 mm with “Mega Tapisserie” dials

Initial thoughts

The last major revamp of the Offshore Chronograph 42 mm was in 2014, when it received a movement upgrade in the form of an in-house base movement, though retaining the modular chronograph. And then two years ago Audemars Piguet unveiled a model equipped with the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185.

The new Offshore is arguably better than all its recent counterparts, because it combines the original design – which is a classic – while improving what needed to be improved, namely the movement.

In the release announcement, AP describes the movement as “a new selfwinding integrated chronograph, Calibre 4404, equipped with column wheel and flyback function”, which pretty much sums it up.

Add to that the new lug attachment with an quick-release mechanism built into the straps and bracelets, and the new Offshore is spot on. If you like the original Offshore design, as I do, then it doesn’t get any better than this from a technical perspective.

The steel version of the new Offshore is pretty much a remake of the 1993 original

New mechanics

Unlike the original that had a solid back, the new Offshores sport an open back that reveals the cal. 4404. A variant of the cal. 4401 found in the [Re]master and Royal Oak chronographs with a “Compax” layout, the cal. 4404 is essentially the same thing but with the chronograph registers repositioned to suit the traditional six, nine, and 12 layout of the Offshore.

Being a recently-developed movement, the cal. 4404 is high spec, with all of the features expected in a modern, high-end chronograph calibre. It has a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph, while the balance is free-sprung.

The cal. 4404

Classics…

The Royal Oak Offshore “Evolution” is led by a trio modelled on the first-generation watches, with modest tweaks. The overall design has been preserved, as have several details that define the original, including signature synthetic-rubber covering for the crown and pushers, as well as the date magnifier built into the dial.

Ironically, the new in-house movement makes that unnecessary since the date sits close to the dial. In contrast, the modular movement of the original meant the date sat deep down due to the thickness of the chronograph mechanism.

Another adjustment is the logo at three o’clock, which is now more compact than on the original

One of the most obvious differences between the new model and the original are the transposed chronograph registers at six and 12 o’clock. Here the hours are at 12 o’clock and seconds at six, and on the original the positions were inverted.

A less apparent change is the relative positions of the registers, all of which now sit at the same distance from the central axis. In contrast, the original had the 12 o’clock register sitting closer to the hands, a consequence of the chronograph module’s construction.

In terms of feel in the hand, the new Offshores should be nearly identical to the original versions, because the dimensions are nearly unchanged. At 42 mm wide and 15.2 mm high, the new model has the same diameter and is only marginally thicker, with the increased height due to the display back.

The version in titanium with a dark grey dial

The steel version is the closest to the 1993 original, while the other two are variants of first-generation models.

Like its predecessor, the titanium model has a grey dial, except it’s now matched with the registers and tachymetric scale in black, instead of dark blue as on the original.

And the pink gold version with its blue dial takes after an early Offshore that was in yellow gold.

From left: steel, titanium, and pink gold

And new faces

But the new Offshores are not merely historical remakes. The line up also includes a pair with “Mega Tapisserie” dials, featuring the extra-large chequerboard pattern and Arabic numerals synonymous with later-generation Offshores. These share the same specs as the “Evolution” models, but with decidedly more modern dials.

Steel with a blue dial

Available in either titanium or steel, they are each delivered with a pair of straps, as opposed to a strap and bracelet as the “Evolution” Offshores are.

Titanium and khaki green

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42 mm “Evolution”
Ref. 26238TI.OO.A056CA.01 (khaki-green Mega Tapisserie, strap)
Ref. 26238ST.OO.A340CA.01 (blue Mega Tapisserie, strap)
Ref. 26238ST.OO.2000ST.01 (blue dial, all steel)
Ref. 26238TI.OO.2000TI.01 (grey dial, all titanium)
Ref. 26238OR.OO.2000OR.01 (blue dial, all pink gold)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel, titanium, or 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 4404
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Interchangeable straps of rubber, leather, or matching metal bracelets

Availability: Starting September 2021 at boutiques only
Prices:

Blue or khaki-green dial on strap – US$33,400; or 48,300 Singapore dollars

Steel or titanium on bracelet – US$40,600; or 58,600 Singapore dollars

18k pink gold on bracelet – US$83,000; or 119,800 Singapore dollars

For more, visit audemarspiguet.com.

Long an annual tradition for IWC – now in its 15th consecutive year in fact – the “Laureus Sport for Good” edition is back once again in its usual blue livery that echoes the emblem of the eponymous charity with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘Laureus Sport for Good’.

Each annual Laureus edition sees IWC facelift one of its watches, from the classical Portofino to the sporty Pilot’s Watch, typically in a simple fashion with the addition of a blue dial – good enough but not quite great. This year the brand is doing something a bit more special with its entry-level aviator’s watch, which gets a blue ceramic case in a first for the brand.

Initial thoughts

As is typical of the IWC Pilot’s Watch, the new Laureus edition is simple, coherent and appealing. But it offers a bit more with the tone-on-tone case and dial, making it slightly more special than the standard Pilot’s Watches, or even past Laureus editions.

Though IWC used a similar formula for the Laureus edition of two years ago – that had a polished, black ceramic case instead – the latest edition is tangibly better. For one, a blue ceramic case is rare, having been utilised by only a handful of watchmakers, and it also looks pretty cool.

At the same time, the watch has been upgraded in technical terms. It houses the new, five-day cal. 32111, which is derived from the cal. 32115 first seen in the ultra-shock resistance Big Pilot XPL.

Both are in turn modified versions of the cal. 32110 that IWC launched two years ago in the base-model Spitfire. The cal. 32111, for instance, has been reworked to increase the power reserve from three to five days.

IWC’s 32000 family of movements is in turn derived from the workhorse movement developed by Valfleurier, the movement maker owned by Richemont, but customised and upgraded for IWC. Another calibre from the same base is the Cartier 1847 MC, which is visible more elementary in its construction and finish, while also having a shorter power reserve.

The Laureus edition also sees its water resistance is increased from the 60 m of the standard Pilot’s Watch to 100 m, an uncommon move in the watch industry – the new Omega Moonwatch retains its 50 m water resistance, for instance, despite a thorough revamp – but a useful upgrade, since water resistance deteriorates over time as rubber gaskets age.

Add to that the fact that this edition will number only half as many watches as the previous edition in black ceramic, and the new Laureus is a better buy, quite a good one in fact. Priced at CHF6,900, it costs around 10% more than the regular-production Top Gun edition in black ceramic. That’s still a substantials sum for a workmanlike, entry-level model, but reasonable enough given the specs and materials, especially considering it helps support a good cause.

That said, the watch does have a weakness: the case size. It’s a large 41 mm, though it will look smaller due to the dark case and dial. But it’s still a shortcoming, particularly from a design perspective, as the date window now sits too far from the edge of the dial, breaking the circle formed by the Arabic numerals. It’s even more pronounced because the date disc is in white. A smaller case would have helped in avoiding that, or failing that, removing the date altogether.

An interesting back

Founded by Daimler and IWC’s parent, Richemont, the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation brings sport to disadvantaged youth around the world, and currently runs more than 250 programmes in over 50 countries.

Each year IWC organises a drawing competition open to children who take part in Laureus programmes. They submissions are then shortlisted by IWC, with the winner being decided by a public vote on the Laureus website.

Last year’s winner was Melissa Mejía Castilla, a 12-year-old from Columbia. Titled Vivir en Armonía – “living in peace” in Spanish – her drawing depicts with 10 people dressed in different colours with their arms around each others’ shoulders around a warm campfire.

Her drawing is reproduced on the case back, as is tradition for the Laureus edition. It’s rendered in two shades of grey, so its backstory will only be known to insiders.

Key Facts and Price

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘Laureus Sport for Good’
Ref. IW328101

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.4 mm
Material: Blue ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 32111
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 120 hours

Strap: Blue rubber with leather inlay

Limited edition: 750 watches
Availability: Now at IWC boutiques, online store, as well as retailers
Price: CHF6,900

For more, visit IWC.com.

Correction September 2, 2021: The cal. 32111 is based on a Valfleurier calibre and not the ETA 2892 as stated in an earlier version of the article.