Historically a major producer of marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin has repurposed the concept in the modern day for its bestselling line of wristwatches that retain the face of a marine chronometer while having in-house movements and eminently reasonable prices.

For its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled the Marine Torpilleur 175 Years collection, a suite of limited-edition watches starting with an affordable base model and ending with a range-topping tourbillon featuring a fired-enamel dial.

Initial thoughts

Originally introduced as an entry-level Marine model – it was named after a torpedo boat – the Marine Torpilleur has been successful enough that it’s now an entire anniversary line up. The expansion of the line is a good thing, because the Torpilleur is classically handsome and generally good value.

All the Torpilleur models are largish at 42 mm in diameter, but most are slim, with heights of about 11 mm, though the chronograph is understandably wider and thicker. As a result, they appear relatively thin on the wrist, especially for a sporty watch.

The tourbillon with a black enamel dial, and next to it a vintage Ulysse Nardin chronometer pocket watch with tourbillon regulator

And the watches are all equipped with high-spec in-house movements, which is a big factor in their value propositions. Even the base model, which costs US$8,200 in its simplest version, is equipped with the UN-118, a movement that has a silicon hairspring and escapement, along with a 60-hour power reserve.

The new Marine Torpilleur has something for everyone, though the Marine Torpilleur Moonphase is a standout. It incorporates a moon phase into the marine chronometer dial, which adds a little bit of romance to the functional, old-school dial.

The Marine Torpilleur Moonphase

Marine Torpilleur 42 mm

Another notable watch is the fancy version of the entry-level model, the Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel. It has a dial in an uncommon dark blue fired enamel. The enamel dial version costs almost 40% more than its counterpart with a white dial, but it’s an arguably worthwhile upgrade.

The other base model is the “Panda”, which has a white, grained dial matched with blue sub-dials and numerals in dark blue.

Marine Torpilleur Moonphase

For a little more, you can have the Marine Torpilleur Moonphase, which is essentially identical to the base model, save for the additional of a moon phase at six o’clock.

Mechanically it’s a simple upgrade, but it does add to the aesthetics of the dial. And it is also unusual to have a moon phase in a sports watch.

The white dial is matte and grained, while the blue dial is metallic and radially brushed

The moon phase is a disc with a galvanic treatment and printing, with the moon rendered in a fairly realistic manner

Marine Torpilleur Chronograph

The chronograph is the largest of the line at 44 mm wide and over 13 mm high, so it lacks the elegant lines of the other models. The size, however, does contribute to the sporty look. But the size does mean the chronograph registers cluster uncomfortably in the centre of the dial.

But it arguably offers the best value amongst the range, because it combines both an integrated chronograph movement and annual calendar, all for US$12,100.

Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Enamel

The top-of-the-line Marine Torpilleur is equipped with Ulysse Nardin’s surprisingly high-tech tourbillon movement. The flying tourbillon contains the brand’s patented constant-force escapement with an escape wheel and pallet lever in silicon, along with the hairspring. And it’s matched with a black enamel dial.

It costs a bit over US$48,000, which is unusually good value for a tourbillon of this calibre, and of course the enamel dial. That said, Ulysse Nardin makes a wide variety of tourbillons, which means the brand itself offers many other options that are similarly priced, so this is not necessarily the specific model to go for, especially since a similar marine chronometer look can be had for less.

Key facts and price

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm
Ref. 1183-310LE-3AE-175 (blue enamel)
Ref. 1183-310LE-0A-175 (Panda)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.73 mm (enamel dial); 11.13 mm (Panda)
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: UN-118
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds; date and power reserve display
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator or rubber, or steel bracelet

Limited edition: 175 pieces (blue enamel); 300 pieces (Panda)
Availability: From Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$11,500 (blue enamel); US$8,200 (Panda)

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase
Ref. 1193-310LE-3A-175 (blue)
Ref. 1193-310LE-0A-175 (white)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.13 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: UN-119
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase and power reserve display
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator or rubber, or steel bracelet

Limited edition: 300 pieces each
Availability: From Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$9,900

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Chronograph
Ref. 1533-320LE-3A-175 (blue)
Ref. 1533-320LE-0A-175 (white)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13.66 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: UN-153
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds; date and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator or rubber, or steel bracelet

Limited edition: 300 pieces each
Availability: From Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$12,100

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Enamel
Ref. 1282-310LE-2AE-175/1A

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.93 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: UN-128
Features: Hours, minutes, power reserve indicator, and tourbillon regulator with UN Anchor escapement
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator or rubber with folding clasp

Limited edition: 175 pieces
Availability: From Ulysse Nardin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$48,400

For more, visit Ulysse-nardin.com.

Czapek & Cie unveiled the Antarctique a year ago, its first foray into the popular category of luxury-sports watches. While the Antarctique had many of the elements synonymous with a luxury-sports watch, namely a steel case, blue dial, and integrated bracelet, it lacked what is arguably the signature element of Czapek’s design DNA – a pair of sub-dials at five and seven.

Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the followup to the original model combines a light touch of high horology with styling more faithful to the brand’s origins – the Antarctique Rattrapante, which is also the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph.

Initial thoughts

At a glance, the Antarctique Rattrapante is a noble effort in fusing the brand’s signature look with a modern, open-worked dial. Aesthetically, the design works well.

The concept of having the entire split-seconds chronograph module visible on the dial creates an intricate view of the mechanics that would normally be hidden. And the mechanics are interesting, as the look is the result of substantial contortions to lower the sub-dials while ensuring they do not run into the gear train for the central hands. Notably, the repositioning was done with extra wheels – the chronograph mechanism actually has the registers in their traditional three and nine positions.

At its core however, the chronograph remains a traditional, mono-pusher mechanism, albeit one that’s modular. The split-seconds mechanism does lack a key feature found in higher-end rattrapante movements – an isolator mechanism that eliminates drag when the split-seconds is running – though that can be forgiven due to the space constraints around the central axis for the hands.

The price however, puts the Antarctique Rattrapante in a conflicted position. At US$51,900, it is steeply priced within the context of high-end steel sports watches, even with its take on the split-seconds complication. It does cost substantially less than traditionally constructed, integrated split-seconds chronographs, but its modular construction means its closest rivals are watches like the Breitling Premier Duograph, which is an integrated movement with a modular split-seconds mechanism – and only costs one-fifth as much.

That said, the Antarctique Rattrapante is unique thanks to the cleverly inverted movement that has the chronograph module forming an open-worked dial – there is little else like it. Personally, I find it visually pleasing in execution.

Inverted mechanics

The case of the Antarctique Rattrapante is similar in design to the three-hander model, but now in a larger size of 42.5 mm by 15.3 mm, a height that includes the domed sapphire crystal. The chronograph is a mono-pusher, so it has the start-stop-reset functions combined into one pusher at two o’clock that’s integrated into the crown guards. Meanwhile, a protruding pusher at 10 o’clock controls the split-seconds.

While the case is familiar, the movement is new and the star of the show. It was developed with help from Chronode, the movement specialist founded by IWC alumnus Jean-Francois Mojon, which has designed calibres for brands such as HYT, MB&F, and also most of of Czapek’s last movements.

Dubbed the SHX6, the movement is essentially a Chronode automatic movement as the base, with the chronograph and rattrapante module on top – without a dial and framed by a concentrically-brushed minute scale.

The appearance is decidedly modern due to the high-contrast combination of steel levers and rhodium-plated wheels against the black-coated main plate, with no untreated brass parts in sight, as would be the case in more traditional looking movements. The design of the steel levers and detent springs also evoke the aerospace aesthetics of contemporary, open-worked sports watches.

Two brushed, rhodium-plated scales form the sub-dials, exposing the chronograph wheels in their centres

Nevertheless, the movement is traditional at its core – the chronograph is a lateral clutch design, with the running seconds and chronograph minute counters actually located at three and nine o’clock as is convention. However, the two counters have been mechanically repositioned with the indirect, auxiliary gear trains in order to replicate the signature appearance of Czapek watches.

The fact that both registers are actually in their conventional positions would indicate that the mechanism is based on an existing module that was modified for this watch.

Two column wheels are visible on the dial: one at 12 o’clock that controls the mono-pusher chronograph mechanism, actuating the lateral clutch lever to the left and the reset hammer to the right; while the other column wheel is at six, to activate the rattrapante clamps. The vertical arrangement of both column wheels further emphasises the vertical symmetry of the dial. Meanwhile, the brand logo is located discreetly at the bottom, framed by the clamps of the split-seconds mechanism.

The design of split-seconds is patent-pending, however no further details have been disclosed. The split-seconds mechanism lacks an isolator mechanism as found on more elaborate rattrapante chronographs, but it can be given a pass due to the congested gear train at the centre of the movement, which probably makes it impossible to squeeze in an isolator.

By necessity, the central post of the movement requires a tall tripod design. Traditionally, the chronograph seconds wheel is on the back of the movement, which doesn’t interfere with the motion works for the hours and minutes on the front.

Since everything is now located on the dial, this requires a central stack of wheels with an offset, auxiliary gearing to bypass the chronograph seconds wheels and drive the motion works. Similar solutions are usually employed for some grand-complication watches with modular movements, typically ones that combines a minute repeater base movement with a chronograph module on the dial side.

The movement with the hands removed

A simpler back

Meanwhile, the view from the case is much simpler as it is a basic, time-only automatic movement. The calibre is derived from the Chronode C102, but with some upgrades such as a full balance bridge and a free-sprung balance wheel. Powered by a single barrel, it has the fourth wheel located at nine o’clock to drive the running seconds (which are then relocated with an auxiliary train).

Echoing the modern aesthetics of the dial, the bridges and rotor have angular forms. A peculiar trait is the gold mass of the rotor, Czapek uses recycled 5N gold to form a large, 18k gold weight that’s secured with screws.

Also visible from the case back side are tiny knobs on the back of the bracelet, which are quick-release tabs to remove the bracelet without tools, allowing an easy swap to a strap

The finish of the base movement is largely done via machine, albeit to a high standard, revealing sharp bevels across the bridges and a clean frosting on most surfaces. The dial components, however, are more elaborately finished, with noticeable polished anglage on the brushed steel levers.

Key facts and price

Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 15.3 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: SXH6
Functions: Hours, minutes, and split-seconds chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet, and optional calfskin or rubber strap

Limited edition: 77 watches
Availability: Direct from Czapek and its retailers
Price: US$51,900

For more information, visit Czapek.com.