Unusually for a brand typically associated with robustly-constructed complicated watches, A. Lange & Söhne is unveiling its second ultra-thin wristwatch for the year, the Saxonia Thin “Black Gold Flux”.

A limited edition of 50 watches, the new Saxonia Thin is fitted with a dial coated in “black gold flux”, more commonly known as aventurine glass. It’s powered by the hand-wind L093.1, the same calibre found in the 1815 Thin “Homage to F.A. Lange” launched three months ago.

Initial thoughts

Lange debuted its first aventurine-glass dial in 2018 with a Saxonia Thin that had a “copper blue”. A departure from the brand’s typical look, the sparkly dial gave a somewhat plain dial a lively, striking appearance. Arguably ideal for a dress watch because of its subtle nature, the aventurine-glass dial looks unadorned at a distance, but reveals the glittering metallic flecks up close and under the right light. It’s a useful variation of Lange’s house style that manages to be different in a discreet manner, while still being formal.

Venetian glass

Measuring 40 mm but standing only 6.2 mm high, the Saxonia Thin appears slightly larger than it is due to its proportions. The new dial should reduce its perceived size somewhat, since darker dials typically appear smaller.

The dial is covered in aventurine glass, also known as goldstone, which is essentially glass with crystalline metallic inclusions that give it a characteristic sparkly finish. Invented by Venetian glass makers in the 17th century aventurine glass is actually glass, and not to be confused with the mineral stone named aventurine, which is also occasionally found on watch dials. According to Lange, the glass is “cast” onto the solid-silver dial disc, meaning it is applied to the dial in its molten state before being allowed to cool and harden.

Like all of Lange’s “Thin” watches, the new Saxonia is equipped with the L093.1. Though decorated in the brand’s hallmark manner – a German silver plate, chatons, and an engraved balance cock – it is distinct from all other Lange movements in having the barrel ratchet and crown wheels, along with the winding click and spring, exposed on the three-quarter plate, a necessity of the slimmer construction.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
Ref. 211.087

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 6.2 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L093.1
Functions: Hours, and minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wind
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Crocodile with pin buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Starting December at boutiques only
Price: €24,500 including 19% German VAT; or 37,000 Singapore dollars including GST

For more, visit Alange-soehne.com.

First unveiled in 2018 in either pink or white gold with black dials, the Saxonia Outsize Date is now offered in the chromatic opposite, once again in both metals but with a silver dial.

Characterised by a no-frills design centred on the extra-large date display, the new Saxonia is identical to the earlier version. The case remains the same compact 38.5 mm in diameter, and contains the L086.8 movement (which is a close relative of the L155.1 in the Odysseus sports watch).

Initial thoughts

Very much typical of A. Lange & Söhne in style, the new Saxonia is a clean, serious-looking wristwatch with a high level of fit and finish, packaged in a modestly-sized, 38.5 mm case. It is simplicity done well.

While the original version in black had a stark and decidedly more modern look found in few Lange watches, the new Saxonia has a more classical aesthetic that is more in keeping with the brand’s house style, which should please traditionalists.

Priced at a bit over €26,000, or about US$30,000, the Saxonia Outsize Date is reasonable value given its quality, both inside and out; the movement is finished to Lange standards, while the dial is solid silver with solid-gold hands and markers.

The only thing that might be a minus is the L086.8 movement, because it is not as elaborate as the first-generation Lange automatic movement, the L921 “Sax-O-Mat” that is now only found in the Langematik Perpetual Calendar (as the L922.1) and Saxonia Annual Calendar (L085.1).

The newer L086.8 is a functionally superior calibre – most notably its power reserve is 72 hours as opposed to 46 hours – but it lacks the zero-reset hacking seconds of the “Sax-O-Mat”. And the first-generation movement is also more attractive to me eye, with its unusual layout featuring a micro-rotor.

The L086.8 in the Saxonia Outsize Date

The L086.8 movement is a full-rotor automatic with a three-day power reserve and hack seconds. And it is finished in the typical Lange style, with stripes on the German silver bridges, a hand-engraved balance cock, as well as a rotor with a platinum rim.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date
Ref. 381.026 (white gold)
Ref. 381.032 (pink gold)

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 9.6 mm
Material: 18k white or pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L086.8
Functions: Hours, minutes, second, and date
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Crocodile with pin buckle

Availability: Starting December at boutiques and retailers
Price: €26,300 including 19% German VAT; or 39,700 Singapore dollars including GST

For more, visit Alange-soehne.com.