Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390.
A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar.
Tondagraph GT
Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché.
Initial thoughts
The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions.
Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good as, or probably better than, the competition in the price segment.
The flagship chronograph
The Tondagraph GT is equipped with an uncommon set of complications: chronograph and annual calendar. The calendar requires only one adjustment per year in February, offering most of the convenience of a perpetual calendar, but at a far more affordable price. Patek Philippe and Ulysse Nardin are among the few brands to offer such watches.
Inspired by the Tonda Chronor of 2016, the 42 mm case was updated by watch designer Dino Modolo, who is probably best known for the work he did for Vacheron Constantin in the 1990s, which included the original Overseas. Mr Modolo reworked the lugs of the Chronor and added an integrated bracelet to create a modern, sporty aesthetic – no doubt to cater to today’s fashion.
The case is matched with a guilloché dial, open-worked hands tipped with black luminescence, and a big date at 12 o’clock. Orange accents dot the dial, most notably for the month and date.
Powering the Tondagraph is Parmigiani’s PF043, an automatic calibre with a 45-hour reserve that’s been sharply finished and dressed up with a 22k gold rotor.
Limited to 200 pieces, the Tondagraph GT is available in steel with a black dial, and either a rubber strap or integrated bracelet. And it starts at US$18,500, which is a reasonable proposition for a watch executed to Parmigiani’s typical level of quality.
And three hands
Featuring the time and extra-large date, the Tonda GT Black and the Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue are the two base models, offered in steel and 18k rose gold respectively.
They retain the same styling as the Tondagraph GT, with the open-worked, delta-shaped hands and a big date. The small seconds sub-dial has a little twist to make it a little more interesting, with the seconds scale arranged in two half-arcs and fitted with an asymmetrical seconds hand.
Inside is the PF044, which has a 45-hour reserve and 22k gold rotor. Both Tonda GT models are limited editions, with 250 in steel and 150 in rose gold, with the option of the bracelet that really enhances that luxury-sports watch feel.
Key facts and price
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Ref. PFC910
Case diameter: 42 mm Height: 11.2 mm Material: Steel or rose gold Crystal: Sapphire, sapphire case back Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: PF044 Features: Central hours and minutes, sub-dial seconds and big date Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 45 hours
Strap: blue or black rubber, gold or steel integrated bracelet
Limited edition: 250 in steel, 150 in rose gold Availability: From Parmigiani and select boutiques worldwide in August Price: Steel on rubber – US$13,500
Steel on bracelet – US$14,500
Rose gold on rubber – US$24,900
Rose gold on bracelet – US$49,500
Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Ref. PFC906
Case diameter: 42 mm Height: 13.7 mm Material: Steel Crystal: Sapphire, sapphire case back Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: PF043 Features: Central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds, sub-dial seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter and annual calendar with big date Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 45 hours
Strap: Black rubber or steel integrated bracelet
Limited edition: 200 Availability: From Parmigiani and select boutiques worldwide in August Price: Steel on rubber – US$18,500; steel on bracelet – US$$19,500
Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything.
We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here.
Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record”
This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement.
The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000).
Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 watches to commemorative the Golden Gate Yacht Club’s entry into in the 32nd America’s Cup in 2007 (represented by the BMW Oracle Racing team).
The movement inside is actually a simplified variant of the calibre found in the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, an iconic tourbillon movement if there ever was one. But that also means it is manually wound, a bit of an inconvenience due to the screw-down crown, which is conveniently enormous.
Numbered “19/32”, this example has clearly been worn often, and the case shows noticeable wear. It is, however, complete with its original cylindrical box and all papers. It has an estimate of HK$150,000-250,000, or about US$19,200-32,100.
Lot 818 – Goldpfeil “Seven Masters”
Probably one of the best value buys in the auction in terms of watch per dollar is the Goldpfeil “Seven Masters” set, made up of seven wristwatches made by a diversity of independent watchmakers who were all members of the AHCI – Vianney Halter, Svend Andersen, Vincent Calabrese, Bernhard Lederer, Antoine Preziuso, Frank Jutzi, and Felix Baumgartner.
Conceived in 2000 by German leather goods house EganaGoldpfeil, the Seven Masters project was not unlike the Harry Winston Opus series. But it was dogged by inconsistency in terms of product, some of the creations, like the camera-inspired Vianney Halter, were brilliant, while others, like the Antoine Preziouso with an orange-leather dial, were not.
What eventually sunk the project was the bankruptcy of its EganaGoldpfeil, which went under in 2007 amidst a massive financial scandal, which meant the Seven Masters was consigned to being an obscure, historical curiosity.
But the watches, at least most of them, remain interesting, and now they are extremely affordable. Each piece captures the signature style – for better or worse – of its maker. The best known and most desirable is the Vianney Halter, which has a jump hour, moon phase, and hand-hammered case finish.
This set is rarely seen in its entirety, and here it has an estimate of only HK$155,000-310,000, or about US$19,900-39,700.
Lot 824 – Voutilainen Observatoire
The wristwatch that made Kari Voutilainen a watchmaking star, the Observatoire was a 38 mm wristwatch powered by a refinished and upgraded Peseux 260, originally a movement made in the 1950s specifically for wristwatches destined for observatory chronometer trials. And the Observatoire also created what is now the signature Voutilainen style, with its teardrop lugs, guilloche dial, and two-tone observatory-style hands.
One of an estimated 50 or so produced, this example from 2009 is in white gold, with a grey guilloché dial that boasts three different engine-turned patterns.
Though all Observatoires had the same base movement, they were finished in a variety of ways. This example has rhodium-plated bridges finished with Cotes de Geneve, as well as a polished, tubular balance cock.
The watch is in excellent condition and is complete with its original box and papers. It is estimated at HK$310,000-470,000, or about US$39,700-60,300.
Lots 865 and 866 – Gérald Genta Royoma ref. G2391 tortoiseshell and ref. G2391 mother-of-pearl
These two pocket watches exemplify the works of Gerald Genta in the 1990s, when he was as much a watch designer as a creator of objets d’art that doubled as timekeepers. Both pocket watches demonstrate a degree of watchmaking skill and artisanal decoration that is either exorbitant or uncommon today.
Though they are separate lots, they have been consigned by the same owner. The pair are almost identical, with cases 42 mm in diameter, very thin, and doubtlessly hand made the old-fashioned way.
Genta’s signature octagonal case form is obvious, but executed in precious materials – tortoiseshell and mother of pearl respectively. The same movement is found inside both: a hand-wound Frederic Piguet pocket watch calibre with a perpetual calendar module that’s been artfully skeletonised, with many components engraved or blued for maximum visual effect.
The first example has an unconventional case made of yellow gold inlaid with tortoise shell, with the variegated shades of brown especially beautiful when set against the yellow gold case.
Rarely used in watches due to its fragility, tortoiseshell is most often found on watch dials, and almost never on the case. But like many of Genta’s pocket watches, this was as much a pocket watch as it as a desktop timekeeper, allowing for the beautifully delicate case.
The watch is in excellent condition though it shows minor signs of ageing, including oxidisation on the chapter rings for the sub-dials. Importantly, the tortoiseshell inlay is intact and undamaged. It is accompanied by a stylus for the calendar and has an estimate of HK$78,000-155,000, or about US$10,000-19,900.
The second example is near identical, and also cased in yellow but panelled in white mother-of-pearl, giving it a slightly more feminine look. It is likewise in excellent condition, showing slight oxidisation on the dial and case.
It also includes a calendar-setting pin and has an estimate of HK$78,000-155,000, or about US$10,000-19,900.
Lot 889 – Panerai Luminor PAM 130
From its reestablishment in 1997 until 2002, just as Panerai was shaping up to become the hottest brand of the decade, it dipped its toes into diamond-set watches, making both Luminor and Radiomir watches set with gemstones.
Legend has it that the brand’s chief executive then, Angelo Bonati – basically the man who created the modern Panerai enterprise – believed the diamond-set watches were not in keeping with the spirit of Panerai, explaining the short production run and small numbers.
Thought catalogued as a PAM 30 (which was made in 1997), this is actually a PAM 130 made in 2001, one of the very last diamond-set Panerai watches made. The PAM 130 is one of the most tasteful of the diamond-set models, which were offered with diamonds on either the case or dial, or both.
Here the diamonds form the signature hour markers of the Luminor dial, with the baton indices being formed by baguettes and the Arabic numerals, brilliant-cut diamonds. At a distance, it can pass for an ordinary Luminor.
Given the soft demand for older, modern-day Panerai watches, this is a a historical curiosity that is eminently affordable. Priced essentially the same as an equivalent Luminor without diamonds, this has an estimate of HK$48,000-94,000, or about US$6,200-12,100 – but has no reserve.
Lot 960 – Moritz Grossman Benu Tourbillon Orange Titanium
Moritz Grossmann makes exceptionally high-quality movements – see for yourself – and this is an example of the most complicated watch it makes.
When the brand marked its 10th anniversary in 2018, it created 24 unique watches that were sold in an online auction at Christie’s (which sadly didn’t go very well for the brand in terms of prices achieved). This Benu Tourbillon is one of the 24 watches, and features a brushed titanium case and striking orange dial.
Given the large size of the case, 44.5 mm by 13.8 mm, lightweight titanium is a useful material. Granted, the orange dial is not for everyone, but it has a contemporary, sport appeal.
But there is no question about the appeal of the movement, which is finished to an extremely high standard. Every component is finished very, very well. Edges are chamfered, steel is mirror polished, and the barrel ratchet wheel is double solarised. You can see how well right here.
It’s a hand-wound calibre with a three-minute flying tourbillon and a stop seconds mechanism that hacks the tourbillon in the most unusual way – pulling the crown moves a lever that touches the balance wheel, as most hacking levers do. But the lever is tipped in a tiny brush of human hair, in this case from the head of the brand’s chief executive, which softly contacts the balance wheel, stopping it but not marking it in any way.
Purchased by the current owner in 2018 at the online auction, the watch is in excellent condition and remains under the factory warranty. It also includes the original box and papers. The estimate is just HK$300,000-460,000, or about US$38,500-59,000.
Lot 973 – Vacheron Constantin Medicus ref. 47152
Launched in 2000 as a modern take on the vintage doctor’s watch, the Medicus featured a pulsometer scale on its dial and a cushion-shaped case. It was offered in both conventional and skeletonised form, with the top-of-the-line model being the 30-piece limited edition in platinum with a skeletonised movement.
This is one of the 30 in platinum. The dial is open worked, revealing the immaculately skeletonised and engraved movement. Unusually, the movement is a Lemania 1872, which is also the calibre found in the modern-day Speedmaster Professional Moon Watch. It’s a hand-wound movement with a cam for the chronograph, instead of the column wheel typical of high-end watches.
While that might ordinarily be a shortcoming in a newly-launched watch, this is a 20-year old watch with a remarkable degree of decoration on the movement, so it is acceptable; the rest of the movement more than makes up for it.
Numbered “15/30”, this example is in excellent condition with few signs of wear, though it lacks the original box and papers. The lines of the tonneau-shaped case remain sharp and well defined.
The Medicus is a value buy going by the estimate of HK$120,000-200,000, or about US$15,400-25,600.
Preview and Auction
The preview exhibition is open daily from July 4-9 at the JW Marriott Hotel.
The auction takes place on July 10, with the first session (lots 801-916) starting at 12:00 pm, followed by the second session (lots 917-1069) at 3:30 pm.
For the complete catalogue, as well as to place bids online, visit Phillips.com.
JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong
88 Queensway
Admiralty, Hong Kong
This was brought to you in collaboration with Phillips.
