Previously only available in titanium or carbon composite, Bulgari has now introduced the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in a precious metal case.

While titanium and carbon composite are superior in transmitting sound thanks to their low density – making them ideal for striking watches – the new rose-gold version is irrefutably more striking, no pun intended, combining a starkly industrial design with the sheen of gold.

Frosted gold

First unveiled in 2016, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater remains the thinnest minute repeater on the market, with the case measuring just 6.85 mm high. The new gold iteration, however, is a hair thicker at 6.9 mm to ensure case rigidity as gold is softer than titanium.

But the gold case retains the same all-matte, sandblasted case finish as the titanium model, creating a surface that is deliciously subdued. The dial is also made of rose gold, with the same perforated indices to better transit the sound from the movement to the case and crystal.

Measuring 40 mm wide, the watch is depth rated to 30 m, helped by the use of a pusher at nine o’clock to activate the repeater, which is easier to seal against moisture than a traditional slide.

The Genta connection

Underneath it is the hand-wound BVL362 that is based on a 2.72mm high movement conceived by Gerald Genta in 1981. The movement was re-engineered by Bulgari, and bulked up slightly to improve structural integrity and reliability.

However, at 3.12 mm high, the BVL362 movement is still remarkably thin, achieved with the use of a floating crown wheel and mainspring barrel, which are suspended on one end, as well as a flat hairspring as opposed to an overcoil, which would otherwise add to its height.

Lastly, it is equipped with a free-sprung balance wheel, and despite its height, it still manages a respectable 42-hour power reserve.

Key facts and price

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in Rose Gold
Ref. 103279

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 6.9mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Water resistance: 30m

Movement: BVL362
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds; minute repeater
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hnad-wound
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Brown, matte leather

Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: US$170,000, or 252,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Bulgari.com.

The flagship launch for Bulgari at LVMH Watch Week is a compact tourbillon for ladies that’s technically interesting because it is powered by a newly-developed form movement.

The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is a moderately large ladies’ watch, with a case measuring 34 mm in diameter and a slim 8.9 mm high.

Because it is a Serpenti – which is Italian for “serpent” – the case is shaped like a snake’s head, giving it an ovoid form that has quite a presence on the wrist. Available in white gold or rose gold, the case is set with diamonds, as is the dial (and there’s also a version in white gold with a matching bracelet, set in diamonds from end to end).

Inside is the BVL150, a hand-wound movement constructed specifically for this watch. It’s a small movement, measuring 22 mm at its longest and 3.65 mm high, but still manages to accommodate a tourbillon and a 40-hour power reserve.

More notably, the movement is a form movement; its shape traces the case, with the tourbillon taking centre stage at six o’clock.

Unusually, the tourbillon looks like a flying tourbillon, but is a conventional tourbillon secured by a bridge. But the bridge is a piece of clear sapphire, with the pivot jewel in its centre, making it almost invisible.

Another unconventional feature is the crown, which is positioned just between two and three o’clock – inclined at six degrees from the horizontal according to Bulgari – a necessity due to the compact size of the movement.

Key facts and price

Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Ref. 103257 (rose gold)
Ref. 103260 (white gold)
Ref. 103262 (white gold with white gold bracelet)

Case diameter: 34 mm
Height: 8.9 mm
Material: 18k rose or white gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL150
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator strap, or white gold bracelet

Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: US$78,000, or 114,000 Singapore dollars (rose gold); US$82,000, or 119,000 Singapore dollars (white gold); US$151,000, or 218,000 Singapore dollars (white gold with bracelet)

For more, visit Bulgari.com.

Unveiled alongside the new variants of the Octo Finissimo in gold or steel, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic is another take on the all-ceramic model launched last year.

While last year’s watch had a uniformly matte finish on the case and bracelet, the new ceramic Octo Finissimo has alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces, giving it a little bit more life, with the polished bits catching the light just right. The all-black look is made a little bit more interesting with the varied surface finish, but retains the extreme sleekness of the original ceramic Octo.

Like the case, the dial is monochromatic, but made legible, to a degree, with different surface finishes. The dial itself has a matte, frosted surface, while the markings and hands have a glossy finish.

The dimensions of the new ceramic Octo remain unchanged from the earlier model, at 40 mm wide and 5.5 mm high. Inside is the BVL138 movement found across the Octo Finissimo Automatic model range.

Key facts and price

Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic
Ref. 103368

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 5.5 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL138
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Black ceramic bracelet

Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: US$15,600, or 22,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Bulgari.com.

Continuing with the sleek and successful Octo Finissimo, Bulgari has just unveiled two new variants of the extra-flat wristwatch at LVMH Watch Week, a pre-Baselworld launch event for the luxury group’s three watch brands, which include Hublot and Zenith.

The new Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished – in either steel or rose gold – is an iteration of earlier models, and is distinguished by its case finish, which is mostly brushed, but highlighted with mirror polished edges and flanks.

With alternating brushed and polished surfaces, the new case finish catches the light nicely. In contrast, current versions of the Octo Finissimo Automatic have a uniformly matte, sandblasted finish that is more muted.

While the finishing is new, the case is exactly the same size – 40mm by 5.25mm, giving it an incredibly slim profile on the wrist.

The new case finishing is paired with a glossy, black-lacquered dial that has markings and hands to match the case material – either 18k rose gold with a leather strap, or in stainless steel with a matching bracelet. The bracelet is an integral part of the Octo Finissimo, so price and material aside, the steel model is more compelling from a design perspective.

Both are powered by the BVL138, the ultra-thin automatic movement that’s standard for the Octo Finissimo. The movement is just 2.23mm high, and relies on a platinum micro rotor for winding.

Key facts and price

Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished Steel
Ref. 103297

Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished Rose Gold
Ref. 103286

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 5.25 mm
Material: Steel or 18k rose gold
Water resistance: 100m

Movement: BVL138
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Black leather (rose gold model), or steel bracelet

Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: US$12,000, or 16,800 Singapore dollars (steel); US$20,400, or 31,200 Singapore dollars (rose gold)

For more, visit Bulgari.com.