Austrian watchmaker Habring² is well-regarded for its affordable, cleverly engineered watches, particularly the Doppel rattrapante. Now Habring² takes the Doppel a step further: the Perpetual Doppel combines the mono-pusher, split seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, while still keeping it affordable as such things go.

Constructed atop its proprietary A11 movement (itself derived from the robust Valjoux 7750), the Perpetual Doppel is unusual in using a complications module not made by Habring², which typically designs its own complications. Instead, the watch uses the tried and tested perpetual calendar module produced by Dubois-Depraz, a complications specialist that also supplies the module to other makers of affordable perpetual calendars.

This makes the Perpetual Doppel the most complicated serially produced Habring² watch, though the brand has produced one-off repeaters and tourbillons in the past.

The Perpetual Doppel is generously sized at 43mm in diameter to spread out the calendar displays as much as possible to maximise legibility. But despite the added height of the perpetual calendar, the case manages to stay just 12mm high.

Readability is also helped by the red gold-gilded hour numerals and red gold-plated hands that contrast with the brushed, silvered dial. And the chronograph has two central seconds hands for the split-seconds function, along with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock for elapsed minutes.

The Habring² classic

Inside is the A11P, comprised of Habring²’s signature split-seconds movement combined with the Dubois-Depraz module. The split-seconds mechanism was originally designed by Habring² co-founder Richard Habring while he was working for IWC, and now that the patents for it have expired, Habring² has produced an improved version of the original.

Fully wound, the watch delivers approximately 45 hours of power reserve and is attractively finished, even taking into account its accessible pricing. And the chronograph cam is in blued steel, now a Habring² trademark. Unusually, the balance spring is not Swiss made, instead it comes from German wire manufacturer Carl Haas.

Key facts

Diameter: 43mm
Height: 12mm
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 30m

Movement: Hand-wound cal. A11P
Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Black leather

Pricing and availability

Although not a limited edition, the Perpetual Doppel will only be produced upon request; several have already been delivered to fans of the brand. It’s priced at 21,500 Euros, which is about US$24,300. The watch is available either direct from Habring² or any of its retailers.

Made in Spain and powered by rebuilt vintage Omega movements, Atelier de Chronométrie’s watches recall Swiss watches of the 1930s and 1940s. Having launched variants in steel, and even one with a revolving cloisonné enamel dial, Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) has just unveiled a pair of watches created for Shellman, a respected watch retailer in Tokyo.

Founded by vintage watch dealer Santi Martinez, his wife Montse Gimeno, as well as watchmaker Moebius Rassmann, AdC specialises in timepieces that look and feel vintage, save for the movements inside that are artfully designed and wonderfully finished. Its tasteful watches are a perfect fit for Shellman, the small but influential outfit located in the posh Ginza district of Tokyo.

Established in 1971 by Yoshi Isogai, Shellman is highly regarded for its top quality vintage watches and was one of the first retailers of Philippe Dufour anywhere in the world. Alongside Dufour, Shellman is also the retailer of independent labels like Beat Haldimann, Svend Andersen, and now, Atelier de Chronométrie.

The Atelier de Chronométrie #6 is a 35mm watch in 18k grey gold, with a two-tone sector dial and blued steel leaf hands.  The case design is inspired by 1930s gentleman’s wristwatches, explaining the single-stepped bezel with a flat front and the narrow case band.

Inside is a movement that started life as a 1950s Omega cal. 266, but entirely revamped by AdC. Twenty-six components of the movement are hand-made from scratch, while every component is decorated by hand to a high degree. The parts made by AdC include the bridges and cocks, which are made of ARCAP, a hard alloy made up of nickel, copper and zinc, as well as the free-sprung balance wheel that has two adjustable masses made of 18k gold.

Admittedly the #6 wristwatch is fairly similar to earlier AdC watches, which is where the Atelier de Chronométrie #7 stands out. Though it has design elements found in other AdC timepieces, the #7 is the first time they have been combined in this manner.

The #7 is in old school 18k yellow gold, and slightly larger at 37mm in diameter. The dial is black “gilt” with applied Breguet numerals matched with solid yellow gold hands.

The movement is identical to that in the #6, but because several components are hand-made and also finished by hand, the aesthetic is intentionally varied. The shape of the barrel bridge, for instance, is different, as is the finishing on the crown and barrel ratchet wheels.

Note the gold chaton for the jewel within the black-polished steel cap on the escape wheel cock

Key facts AdC #6

Diameter: 35mm
Material: 18k grey gold
Water resistance: 30m

Movement: Hand-wound and based on Omega cal. 266
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calfskin with hand-made 18k grey gold buckle

Key facts AdC #7

Diameter:37.5mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30m

Movement: Hand-wound and based on Omega cal. 266
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calfskin with hand-made 18k yellow gold buckle

Price and availability

The AdC #6 and #7 are available only at Shellman in Tokyo, but similar models are available direct from Atelier de Chronometrie, starting at €38,000 in stainless steel.