Barcelona-based independent watchmaker Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) sticks to a simple but compelling formula: pre-war style wristwatches powered by drastically refined 1950s Omega movements. Coming almost exactly a year after the introduction of the AdC #4 with a cloisonné dial, the new AdC #88 is exactly that, in a slim, stainless steel case – a first for the brand.

The steel case is 37mm in diameter, slightly larger than AdC’s earlier watches. It has a wide, flat bezel, and slightly thicker lugs, giving it a marginally more sporty look that’s reminiscent of the Patek Philippe ref. 570 in steel, a rare and valuable oversized Calatrava of the 1940s. Besides the style, another point of attraction is the price, which is about a fifth less than the AdC watches with a gold case.

To match the case style, the dial is also inspired by the 1940s and available in glossy black or matte silver. It’s a “sector” dial, with the face divided into quadrants by a crosshair, matched with an engine-turned, oversized subsidiary seconds with appropriately retro typography.

As found on all of AdCs watches, the hands are mirror-polished and rounded, with a thickness and gleam that is possible only with hand-made hands.

And the case back reveals the movement, which originally started its life as an Omega cal. 266 in the 1950s. It’s part of the calibre 30 family of movements, robust, chronometer-grade calibres that included the well-known cal. 30T2 RG.

But AdC has heavily improved the original movement – 44 components are hand-made from scratch without automated tools – and dressed it up in an elaborate finish, including frosted bridges with sharply defined and polished bevels.

More notably, the movement has been further refined compared to earlier versions of AdC’s cal. 266. Amongst the notable details include the lowered, black polished steel cock for the escape wheel, along with a newly developed free-sprung balance wheel fitted with six 18k rose gold timing weights.

Price and availability

The AdC #88 is priced at €38,000 before taxes, equivalent to US$43,200. It’s available direct from Atelier de Chronométrie.

For the second year running, Chopard has unveiled a one-off version its most complex L.U.C wristwatch, this time fully engraved with a motif inspired by the Chinese zodiac.

Combining a perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and an impressive nine-day power reserve on four barrels, the L.U.C Perpetual T ‘Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac’ has almost every surface of its watch case covered in relief engraving depicting all 12 symbols of the zodiac. The elaborate decoration is similar to another recent unique, skull-themed Perpetual T produced for a watch fair in Mexico.

Measuring 43mm in diameter and 15.02mm in height, the case is 18k rose gold and covered with hand-engraving, save for the top of the lugs and the back surfaces – a task that took 210 hours to complete.

All of the 12 zodiac animal signs are depicted chronologically on the sides of the case in the order of the zodiac, starting at 12 o’clock with the rat, circling the case, and ending with the pig. And the bezel is engraved with a Chinese motif to match.

The dial is solid gold and stamped with a repeating geometric pattern drawn from the architecture found in traditional Chinese temples. It shows the calendar indications in two sub-dials as well as the oversized date 12 o’clock, along with the tourbillon at six.

While the case back is unadorned, the movement is the redoubtable, in-house L.U.C cal. 02.15-L. Though all of the movement is covered by two large bridges, the finishing is exemplary, as is typical of the top of the line L.U.C movements. And like most L.U.C movements, the cal. 02.15-L bears the Poinçon de Genève hallmark of quality, while also being COSC-certified.

The movement relies on Chopard’s “Quattro” four-barrel system for a generous nine-day power reserve. A power reserve indicator on the barrel bridge indicates the remaining energy in the barrels.

Since July, Chopard has exclusively used “ethical” gold across all its products – both watches and jewellery – meaning the gold alloy is responsibly sourced, and verified as having met international environmental and social standards. Both the case and dial of the Perpetual T ‘Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac’ are made from 18k Fairmined gold, a certification administered by the Alliance for Responsible Mining, an international NGO based Colombia.

Price and Availability

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac is a one-of-a-kind creation, priced at SFr270,000, or S$372,500.