When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary last year the Geneva watchmaker introduced the Harmony, a range of cushion-shaped watches that were all limited editions dedicated to the occasion. Now unsurprisingly the Harmony has returned to become part of the regular line-up with minor aesthetic tweaks here and there, with the only exception being the gorgeous Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph, but the odds are that it will be revived eventually.

Here’s a quick rundown of the new models, including specs and prices.

Minor tweaks

The new Harmony watches are distinguished from the limited editions in several ways, starting with the dial. The numerals are now dark grey (instead of blue), while the minute track is railway-style. And the sub-dials have been redesigned to look more modern.

The calibre 3300 inside the new Harmony Chronograph with a conventional balance cock

More substantive changes, but still cosmetic, is the guilloche on the 22k gold rotor of the automatic models that replaces the flowery hand-engraving of the anniversary editions. Similarly, the solid gold, hand-engraved balance cocks found on the anniversary chronographs has been succeed by the same in rhodium-plated brass.

While the anniversary watches were ostensibly limited editions, the new Harmony watches that are part of the regular collection are priced significantly lower, which is some consolation. Still, the situation seems familiar – Richard Lange Pour le Mérite anyone?

One new model

Of the ten new models, only one is truly new, the Harmony Complete Calendar (ref. 4000S/000R-B123). This is a triple calendar wristwatch in the traditional style, with the day and month displayed in windows, the date via a pointer hand, and a moon phase at six o’clock. Historically Vacheron Constantin offered this complication, but the Harmony Complete Calendar is a first in recent years.

This is equipped with the calibre 2460 QC, the brand’s top of the line self-winding movement, with the addition of a triple calendar module on top. The case is pink gold and 40mm in diameter.

A trio of men’s watches 

The new Harmony range also includes three more men’s watches, all of which were already launched as 260th anniversary editions. The most complicated model is the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 5100S/000R-B125), now offered in pink gold; the anniversary limited edition was only in platinum. Otherwise it is largely the same, with the case being 42mm in diameter and containing the hand-wound calibre 3200.

The Harmony Chronograph (ref. 5300S/000R-B124) likewise returns, also in pink gold and also 42mm in diameter with the calibre 3300 inside. This one looks extremely similar to the ostensibly limited anniversary edition but fortunately it costs about 15% less.

And the last model is the Harmony Dual Time, available in both white gold (ref. 7810S/000G-B142) and pink gold (ref. 7810S/000R-B141). Inside the 40mm case is the calibre 2460 DT, which has the second time zone function set via the crown.

Clockwise from top left: Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph, Harmony Chronograph, Harmony Dual Time and Harmony Complete Calendar

And a quartet for the ladies

There are two ladies’ watches in the new Harmony range, available with and without diamonds. The Harmony Chronograph Small Model is 37mm in diameter, equipped with the Lemania-based calibre 1142, the same movement as the Cornes de Vache 1955 chronograph. This is available in pink gold with 1.2 carats of diamonds on the bezel (ref. 5005S/000R-B139) or in unadorned pink gold (ref. 5000S/000R-B139).

And the Harmony Dual Time Small Model is identically sized, being 37mm in diameter with the same movement as the men’s model, the calibre 2460 DT, inside. The diamond set model has 1.2 carats of gems on the bezel, and is available in white gold (ref. 7805S/000G-B155) or pink gold (ref. 7805S/000R-B140). The plain model is only available in pink gold (ref. 7800S/000R-B140).

Harmony Chronograph Small Model (top), and Harmony Dual Time Small Model

Price and availability 

The new Harmony watches will be available gradually at retailers and boutiques starting October 2016, with the Harmony Chronograph being the first to arrive. Prices are in US dollars and Singapore dollars.

Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph – US$245,000 or S$376,400

Harmony Chronograph – US$65,800 or S$101,000

Harmony Complete calendar – US$41,000 or S$63,000

Harmony Dual Time – US$38,300 or S$58,800

Harmony Chronograph Small Model with diamonds – US$64,400 or S$95,500

Harmony Chronograph Small Model – US$62,200 or S$83,300

Harmony Dual Time Small Model with diamonds – US$44,200 or S$67,900

Harmony Dual Time Small Model – US$36,000 or S$55,500

The new Clifton Perpetual Calendar from Baume & Mercier is a familiar one, given the popularity of accessibly priced perpetual calendars from the likes Frederique Constant, Montblanc and even Chopard L.U.C.

Priced at the equivalent of US$21,000, the Clifton Perpetual Calendar is red gold and a largish 41mm in diameter. With four sub-dials and a symmetrical layout, the dial is typical of watches featuring the common Dubois-Depraz 5100 perpetual calendar module. That’s the same module used by dozens of other perpetual calendar watches, including both the  Montblanc mentioned earlier.

Odds are that any perpetual calendar wristwatch with a lowish price will have the Dubois-Depraz module inside; the inverse is also true: the proliferation of affordable perpetual calendars is thanks to the readily available and well-priced Dubois-Depraz module.

More unusual is the base movement, which is the Vaucher 5401. Visually distinctive with its bridge layout, the 5401 is a relatively slim and large automatic calibre with a micro-rotor from a movement maker that also supplies the likes of Richard Mille, Hermes and Parmigiani. Vaucher movements are respected, well executed, and pricey, consequently not usually found in gold watches at this price point – a big plus for this watch.

That makes the Clifton Perpetual Calendar an unusual proposition. Though Baume & Mercier has been working hard at moving upmarket with watches like the Clifton Flying Tourbillon and 8-Day Power Reserve – both powered by IWC movements no less – it is still a brand associated with more affordable watches.

Price and availability 

Offered only in red gold for now – a stainless steel version surely can’t be far off – the Clifton Perpetual Calendar (ref. M0A10306)is priced at SFr20,800, equivalent to US$21,000. It’s available at Baume & Mercier retailers.

Correction October 14, 2016: The Frederique Constant perpetual calendar does not use the Dubois-Depraz 5100 calendar module as previously stated. Thanks to Frank Geelen of Monochrome for pointing it out.