One of the nine newcomers to SIHH 2016, H. Moser & Cie. turned to its past for inspiration, resulting in the Perpetual Calendar Heritage limited edition that resembles a pocket watch for the wrist. Fitted with hinged, enamelled lids on the front and back, the Perpetual Calendar Heritage is a striking departure from the signature H. Moser & Cie. aesthetic that emphasises clean lines and functionality.

Paradoxically, the Perpetual Calendar Heritage is meant to mark the tenth year of the Moser perpetual calendar, one of the most concise and functional on the market. On the dial the movement shows the time, date, month and power reserve, with the leap year indicator on the back.

The dial is white fired enamel, while the case is covered with champleve enamel – translucent blue enamel over a guilloche rose gold case. And the hinged lid over the dial is also set with diamonds, just like on the 19th century pocket watch that served as its inspiration.

The 19th century H. Moser & Cie. pocket watch that served as inspiration

Under the hinged back is the HMC 341 movement. Though it’s identical to the ordinary perpetual calendar in function, the materials and finishing differ. All the bridges as well as the base plate are 18k pink gold, finished with a fine frosting (instead of brass bridges finished with striping). The balance wheel is fitted to a double hairspring, while the balance pivot sits on twin diamond endstones.

The Perpetual Calendar Heritage is a large 46 mm in diameter, standing some 13.6 mm high to accommodate the twin hinged covers. It’s a limited edition of 10 pieces with a retail price of approximately US$250,000.

Updated January 18, 2016: Price and limited edition quantity added.

Richemont’s recently released results for its third quarter demonstrates the persistent weak demand for watches, especially in Asia and at independent retailers. With SIHH 2016 just around the corner, Richemont has announced subdued third quarter results, setting the tone for the trade fair that takes place in Geneva next week. Revenue for the quarter ended December 31, 2015 was down four percent at constant exchange rates, with the Asia-Pacific posting the biggest decline amongst regions, down by nine percent. Sales in Hong Kong and Macau were “significantly lower”. Independent retailers (known as the wholesale channel in industry parlance), continued to reduce their orders, so wholesale turnover was down eight percent. This was most pronounced in Hong Kong, Macau and the Americas.  Wholesale is primarily made up of watches, since Richemont’s other divisions (jewellery and others), mainly operate their own stores. Retail sales, meaning those at Richemont’s own boutiques, remained flat. The group’s watchmakers saw their sales dip four percent, while jewellery products enjoyed “strong demand”. However, the jewellery division saw its sale drop five percent, because it includes the entirety of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, both of which also sell watches. Richemont’s guidance for its full year results due in May 2016 is appropriately pessimistic: “challenging trading environment is likely to prevail in the final quarter to 31 March 2016.” All of this is continued proof that our predictions for the watch world in 2016 will come true.