The new Rolex Cosmograph Daytona has everything that makes a Rolex expensive – a platinum case with a matching platinum bracelet, a baguette diamond bezel and diamond pave dial.

Last year Rolex unveiled the first ever Daytona in platinum, complete with a beautifully crafted platinum bracelet. This year at Baselworld 2014 Rolex presents the same, but with diamonds set on the bezel and dial. For those who thought last year’s Daytona was not enough, the new Daytona with diamonds (ref. 116576 TBR) should do the trick.

Equipped with the cal. 4130 movement, the new Daytona has a 40 mm platinum case with a platinum Oyster bracelet – essentially the specs are identical to last year’s platinum Daytona.

However, the bezel is set with 36 baguette cut diamonds, and the dial is paved with 437 round diamonds. The hands are blued white gold, while the chronograph registers are finished in the distinctive ice blue colour found only on platinum Rolex watches.

The Daytona ref. 116576 TBR will retail for 148,000 Swiss francs, or about US$167,000. That’s more than double the price of the regular platinum Daytona.

Distinguished by its wide and flat lugs, the Grand Seiko “Self-Dater” of 1964 provides the template for five new Grand Seiko models in 2014, including both Spring Drive and high-precision 9F quartz models.

Introduced in 1964, the Grand Seiko 57GS, nicknamed “Self-Dater”, was the first Grand Seiko with a date function. Its most striking design element was the broad and flat lugs, making it appear larger than its smallish 36.5 mm. With that as an inspiration, Seiko has unveiled five new Grand Seiko models at Baselworld 2014, all based on the 1964 Self-Dater. Closest to the original are a pair of limited edition high-precision quartz watches. Both use the 9F82 movement, part of the 9F series of Grand Seiko quartz movements, possibly the most advanced quartz movements on the market today. Thermo-compensated and equipped with a high torque motor, the 9F movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year.

With a 37.2 mm steel case and the box-form sapphire crystal typical of Grand Seiko, the limited edition quartz Self-Daters are available with a silver or black dial. The silver model (SBGV009) is a replica of the 1964 original and is limited to 1200 pieces, while the black version (SBGV011) is limited to 900 pieces. These will cost €3750 before taxes, or about US$5160.

Grand Seiko 57GS Self-Dater, c. 1964

The other series of Self-Dater inspired watches feature Spring Drive movements, which essentially self-winding, mechanical movements with an integrated circuit to control the escapement. This gives them an accuracy of within 10 seconds a month, whereas the average mechanical chronometer is rated to 5 seconds a day. These are powered by the 9R15, which has a date function and power reserve indicator for its 72 hour autonomy. All have the same 39.9 mm case. The top of the line model is the SBGA107. This has a platinum case, champagne dial and crocodile skin strap. Limited to 50 pieces, this will retail for €31,900, equivalent to US$43,900.

The other two are both in steel, and limited to 500 pieces each. One has a silver dial (SBGA103), and the other has a deep blue dial (SBGA105). These will cost €6050, or about US$8320.

Inspired by the fifties model of the same name, the Omega De Ville Trésor is a slim, vintage style wristwatch featuring a non-magnetic, Master Co-Axial movement that is, unusually for a modern Omega, manually wound.

The Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial is not the only new Omega at Baselworld 2014 that looks to the past. With the aesthetics of mid-twentieth century wristwatches, the Omega De Ville Trésor is an elegant 40 mm wide, with a thin bezel, hobnail guilloche dial and a box-shaped sapphire crystal. Inside is the new Master Co-Axial calibre 8511. Unlike most Omega Co-Axial movements which are automatic, this is hand-wind with a 60 hour power reserve. Like the rest of the Master Co-Axial movements, this has a Si14 silicon hairspring and resistance to magnetic fields of over 15,000 Gauss, the highest on the market. And because the De Ville Trésor has a gold case, the balance bridge is in solid red gold, a hallmark of all Co-Axial timepieces in gold.

The dial has a silvered finished and is decorated with a Clous de Paris guilloche. Very slightly domed to complete the vintage look, the dial has gold indices and hands.

Available only in yellow, white or Sedna rose gold, the De Ville Trésor will retail for 17,850 Singapore dollars (~US$14,200) in yellow or Sedna gold. The white gold version is 19,400 Singapore dollars (~US$15,400).

Chopard has given its ultra-high frequency movement a striking, modern look, with a black ceramic case and red accents, available as the 250-piece limited edition L.U.C 8HF Power Control.

Chopard was amongst the first brands to create a serially produced, ultra-high beat movement when it presented the L.U.C 8HF back in 2012. Running at 8 Hz or 57,600 beats per hour (bph), the L.U.C Calibre 01.09-L movement returns at Baselworld 2014, inside the L.U.C 8HF Power Control. The high frequency of the Calibre 01.09-L – double the 28,800 bph of most conventional movements – helps it keep better time by increasing the inertia of the balance, making it more stable and less prone to deviations caused by external factors like impacts and shock. Despite the high frequency of the movement, it still manages a respectable 60 hour power reserve.

Notably, the silicon parts used in the Calibre 01.09-L, namely the impulse pin, lever, escape wheel, are interchangeable with the same components in other Choprad L.U.C movements. That means these silicon components will surely make their way into other calibres in the not too distant future. The L.U.C 8HF Power Control has a 42 mm matte black ceramic case and crown. The bezel is also ceramic, with a black titanium ring in between the bezel and case. A sapphire porthole in the back exposes the balance wheel beating at a frenetic 57,600 bph.

Finished with a sunburst brushing, the dial is black with red accents. The date window is at six, and the power reserve at 10. Though Chopard’s track record in watch aesthetics is inconsistent, the Power Control is surprisingly attractive and coherently designed.

The L.U.C 8HF Power Control is limited to 250 pieces with a retail price of 26,530 Singapore dollars. That includes 7% tax and is equivalent to US$21,000.

As Seiko brings its Prospex line global in 2014, it has introduced new Prospex “Monster” Air Diver watches featuring black PVD coated cases and 4R36 automatic movements.

For the first time Seiko will distribute its Prospex line outside of Japan starting in 2014, and one of the new models for this global push is the Prospex Air Diver 200 m “Monster”. The Prospex Monster has the same specs as the other Monster watches powered by the 4R36 movement, but it features new case colours as well as the redesigned Prospex logo on the dial. Case diameter is 42.3 mm with a 200 m depth rating and a Hardlex crystal (strengthened mineral glass). The 4R36 movement has a 41 hour power reserve, hack seconds and hand-winding capability.  Two models are available, both with black PVD coated cases, each taking elements from the 100th Anniverary Blue Monster of 2013. The SRP581K1 has a black case and blue coated bezel, along with a blue minute hand, and is on a black rubber strap.  And the SRP583K1 has a black case and bezel, along with a gold hands and a gold crown, on a black coated bracelet. The new Prospex Monster on rubber strap will be US$475, while the version on bracelet will be US$595.

Seiko has unveiled the Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver, featuring an updated “tuna” shrouded case and an electro-mechanical Kinetic movement with second time zone. This model is amongst the first new Prospex watches which will now be available worldwide.

An abbreviation of “professional specification”, the Seiko Prospex line of sports watches for rigorous activities on land, in the air as well as under water. Prospex gets a new logo and goes global in 2014 – previously available only in Japan, the Prospex line will now be sold worldwide. One of the key new Prospex models presented at Baselworld 2014 is the Kinetic GMT “Tuna” Diver. In the tradition of Seiko’s distinctive shrouded dive watches, the new Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver has a double case nicknamed “tuna” by collectors. A protective outer steel case is screwed to the inner case, giving the watch an overall diameter of 47.5 mm. For the first time the outer shroud is skeletonised, revealing the inner case. Rated to 200 m, the GMT Diver has a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

This uses the Kinetic 5M85 movement, which has a GMT hand and date. It’s powered by an oscillating weight that generates a charge, which then powers the circuit that keeps the time. At full charge the watch will run for about six months, with the second hand indicating the remaining power reserve when the button at two o’clock is pushed. Three versions of the Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver are available. The SUN019 is in steel with a steel bracelet. Then there are the SUN021 and SUN023, both of which are on a rubber strap. The SUN021 has a steel case with a black coated bezel, and yellow dial accents. 

And the SUN023 has a black coated case and bezel, along with orange accents.

The retail for the base model SUN019 will be €660, which is about US$908.

Girard-Perregaux, a brand famous for its tourbillons, has revealed its most complicated tourbillon ever, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon, with 140-part tourbillon rotating on three axes under a sapphire bubble.

Maker of the iconic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux has gone a step, or rather an axis, further with its new Tri-Axial Tourbillon, which we previewed here before Baselworld 2014. Already having a double axis tourbillon in its line-up, a triple axis tourbillon was the predictable and necessary next step, given Girard-Perregaux’s strong association with the complication. Developing in collaboration with technical specialist Manufacture Haute Complication SA (MHC), the Tri-Axial Tourbillon is somewhat late to the multi-axis tourbillon segment, with watchmakers like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Greubel Forsey having got there several years ago. Nonetheless, it is nothing to sniff at, with the GP09300 calibre comprising 317 parts – the tourbillon alone is made of 140 components. Sitting under a domed sapphire bubble, the triple axis tourbillon has at its innermost axis a one minute with the traditional lyre-shaped cage. That in turn is mounted on a second cage that makes one revolution every 30 seconds.

And the two cages are in turn rotated on another axis that goes round once every two minutes. An additional sapphire porthole on the side of the case reveals the profile of the tourbillon.

To the right of the tourbillon is the dial for the time, decorated with a clous de Paris, or hobnail, guilloche, and below that the indicator for the 52 hour power reserve.

Behind the sapphire case back the movement is visible, with a frosted finish on the three-quarter plate, over which are two gold bridges in the signature arrow shape of the brand.

The Tri-Axial Tourbillon has a 48 mm case in pink gold. Only 10 pieces will be made, with a retail price of 465,000 Swiss francs, or about US$524,000.

For the 45th anniversary of the first moon landing in 1969, Omega has created a limited edition Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in titanium and rose gold, with a laser etched black PVD dial.

The first men to land on the moon famously did so with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch on their wrists. It’s 45 years since the lunar landing naturally at Baselworld 2014 Omega unveiled a limited edition to commemorate the Apollo 11 mission.  Joining the dozens of Speedmaster limited editions created over the years, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition has features unusual for a Speedmaster Moonwatch: a titanium and Sedna gold case fitted to a NATO strap. The new Speedmaster has a 42 mm titanium case with the bezel, hands and indices in rose gold, while the tachymetre insert on the gold bezel is made of black ceramic. It is fitted with a box-shaped sapphire crystal. Inside is the hand-wound cal. 1861 movement.

Made of brass with a black PVD coating, the dial is laser etched to remove material thus creating the text, markers and sub-dials in relief. This technique for dial manufacturing is not new to the watch industry, though it is uncommon.

In a first for a Speedmaster, this will be delivered on a fabric NATO-inspired strap.

Limited to 1969 numbered prices, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo 11 45th Anniversary will cost 9,950 Singapore dollars including 7% tax, or about US$7900.

Conceived as a more formal wristwatch than the all conquering Rolex Oyster, the diverse and perhaps confusing Cellini has been in existence for as long as anyone can remember, but never did catch on. Baselworld 2014 sees the unveiling a new Cellini line, featuring classical but distinctive designs as well as several new movements.

Three models form the new Cellini collection, a time-only automatic, an automatic with date, and a second time zone with day and night function. They share the same case, available only in white or Everose gold, with a diameter of 39 mm.

While its Rolex origins are not immediately apparent, the Cellini features several details synonymous with Rolex. It has an onion-shaped crown, as well as a domed case back with the signature Rolex fluted rim to screw it down.

Interestingly, the double-level bezel combines the two most common bezel styles of the Datejust, with a lower fluted portion (which echoes the case back fluting) and a domed upper ring.

The base model of the new line is the Cellini Time, which has a black or white lacquered dial with elongated Roman numerals, and applied baton indices that are bisected by the minute track. Inside is an automatic Rolex movement with the non-magnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and a 40 hour power reserve.

That is followed by the Cellini Date. In black or white, the dial is decorated with rayon flammé de la gloire guilloche, a sunburst motif. Unusually for a Rolex it has a sub-dial at three o’clock for the date.

And the last model is the Cellini Dual Time. Like the Cellini Date this has a rayon flammé de la gloire guilloche dial available in white or black.

The Cellini Dual Time has a second time zone as well as a home time display in the sub-dial at six o’clock. A tiny window at the 45 minute mark of the sub-dial indicates day or night. The local time hour hand is adjustable in one hour increments via the crown.

Pricing has yet to be announced but the estimated retail price will range from about US$18,000 for the Cellini Time to US$23,000 for the Dual Time.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph is the first timepiece to feature the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, the CH 80 which boasts a column wheel, vertical clutch and 80 hour power reserve.

Baselworld 2014 sees TAG Heuer unveil its first in-house chronograph movement, the CH 80. Named after the town of Chevenez in the Jura where it is made, with the 80 a reference to its power reserve, the CH 80 is a key step in TAG Heuer’s plan of complete vertical integration. The CH 80 makes it debut in the Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph, a vintage style driver’s chronograph inspired by the original “panda” dial Carrera watches of the sixties.

The Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph has three counters, with the constant seconds at six, plus a date window in between four and five. It has a 41 mm, polished steel case, with pump style pushers.

Dial choices are either black or white with contrasting sub-dials and red accents. It is available either on bracelet or with a perforated “rally” leather strap with red lining.

The display back reveals the CH 80 movement, which has all the features common in modern, higher end chronograph movements, namely the column wheel and vertical clutch. Notably it is also relatively slim at just 6.5 mm high (the Valjoux 7750 is just under 8 mm), with a long power reserve of 80 hours, or just over three days.

The CH 80 movement builds on the experience of the development of the Calibre 1887 chronograph movement, which TAG Heuer unveiled in 2009. Though initially claimed to be an in-house movement, after some controversy the 1887 turned out to be based on the Seiko 6S37 movement, though it was modified and made in Switzerland by TAG Heuer.

Most of the movement is made in-house, with the escapement parts made by Atokalpa, a sister company of Parmigiani. TAG Heuer notes that the CH 80 is capable of being produced in large volumes, bringing the brand a step closer to its target of making 100,000 chronograph annually by 2015. The Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph will retail for 5200 Swiss francs before taxes, equivalent to about US$5860.