Baselworld 2014: Presenting the Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, the Most Complex Tourbillon Ever from GP (with specs and pricing)

Girard-Perregaux, a brand famous for its tourbillons, has revealed its most complicated tourbillon ever, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon, with 140-part tourbillon rotating on three axes under a sapphire bubble.

Maker of the iconic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux has gone a step, or rather an axis, further with its new Tri-Axial Tourbillon, which we previewed here before Baselworld 2014. Already having a double axis tourbillon in its line-up, a triple axis tourbillon was the predictable and necessary next step, given Girard-Perregaux’s strong association with the complication. Developing in collaboration with technical specialist Manufacture Haute Complication SA (MHC), the Tri-Axial Tourbillon is somewhat late to the multi-axis tourbillon segment, with watchmakers like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Greubel Forsey having got there several years ago. Nonetheless, it is nothing to sniff at, with the GP09300 calibre comprising 317 parts – the tourbillon alone is made of 140 components. Sitting under a domed sapphire bubble, the triple axis tourbillon has at its innermost axis a one minute with the traditional lyre-shaped cage. That in turn is mounted on a second cage that makes one revolution every 30 seconds.

And the two cages are in turn rotated on another axis that goes round once every two minutes. An additional sapphire porthole on the side of the case reveals the profile of the tourbillon.

To the right of the tourbillon is the dial for the time, decorated with a clous de Paris, or hobnail, guilloche, and below that the indicator for the 52 hour power reserve.

Behind the sapphire case back the movement is visible, with a frosted finish on the three-quarter plate, over which are two gold bridges in the signature arrow shape of the brand.

The Tri-Axial Tourbillon has a 48 mm case in pink gold. Only 10 pieces will be made, with a retail price of 465,000 Swiss francs, or about US$524,000.

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Baselworld 2014: Introducing the Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch Apollo 11 45th Anniversary in Titanium and Rose Gold (with specs and pricing)

For the 45th anniversary of the first moon landing in 1969, Omega has created a limited edition Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in titanium and rose gold, with a laser etched black PVD dial.

The first men to land on the moon famously did so with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch on their wrists. It’s 45 years since the lunar landing naturally at Baselworld 2014 Omega unveiled a limited edition to commemorate the Apollo 11 mission.  Joining the dozens of Speedmaster limited editions created over the years, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition has features unusual for a Speedmaster Moonwatch: a titanium and Sedna gold case fitted to a NATO strap. The new Speedmaster has a 42 mm titanium case with the bezel, hands and indices in rose gold, while the tachymetre insert on the gold bezel is made of black ceramic. It is fitted with a box-shaped sapphire crystal. Inside is the hand-wound cal. 1861 movement.

Made of brass with a black PVD coating, the dial is laser etched to remove material thus creating the text, markers and sub-dials in relief. This technique for dial manufacturing is not new to the watch industry, though it is uncommon.

In a first for a Speedmaster, this will be delivered on a fabric NATO-inspired strap.

Limited to 1969 numbered prices, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo 11 45th Anniversary will cost 9,950 Singapore dollars including 7% tax, or about US$7900.

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Baselworld 2014: Introducing the Revamped Rolex Cellini Collection, New Designs and New Movements

Just introduced at Baselworld, the new Cellini collection features an entirely new design with fluted bezels and guilloche dials. The line-up offers three new models, ranging from a time-only to a dual time with day and night indicator.

Conceived as a more formal wristwatch than the all conquering Rolex Oyster, the diverse and perhaps confusing Cellini has been in existence for as long as anyone can remember, but never did catch on. Baselworld 2014 sees the unveiling a new Cellini line, featuring classical but distinctive designs as well as several new movements.

Three models form the new Cellini collection, a time-only automatic, an automatic with date, and a second time zone with day and night function. They share the same case, available only in white or Everose gold, with a diameter of 39 mm.

While its Rolex origins are not immediately apparent, the Cellini features several details synonymous with Rolex. It has an onion-shaped crown, as well as a domed case back with the signature Rolex fluted rim to screw it down.

Interestingly, the double-level bezel combines the two most common bezel styles of the Datejust, with a lower fluted portion (which echoes the case back fluting) and a domed upper ring.

The base model of the new line is the Cellini Time, which has a black or white lacquered dial with elongated Roman numerals, and applied baton indices that are bisected by the minute track. Inside is an automatic Rolex movement with the non-magnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and a 40 hour power reserve.

That is followed by the Cellini Date. In black or white, the dial is decorated with rayon flammé de la gloire guilloche, a sunburst motif. Unusually for a Rolex it has a sub-dial at three o’clock for the date.

And the last model is the Cellini Dual Time. Like the Cellini Date this has a rayon flammé de la gloire guilloche dial available in white or black.

The Cellini Dual Time has a second time zone as well as a home time display in the sub-dial at six o’clock. A tiny window at the 45 minute mark of the sub-dial indicates day or night. The local time hour hand is adjustable in one hour increments via the crown.

Pricing has yet to be announced but the estimated retail price will range from about US$18,000 for the Cellini Time to US$23,000 for the Dual Time.


 

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Baselworld 2014: Introducing the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph – Vintage Style Chrono with New In-House Movement for Under $6000 (with specs and price)

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph is the first timepiece to feature the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, the CH 80 which boasts a column wheel, vertical clutch and 80 hour power reserve.

Baselworld 2014 sees TAG Heuer unveil its first in-house chronograph movement, the CH 80. Named after the town of Chevenez in the Jura where it is made, with the 80 a reference to its power reserve, the CH 80 is a key step in TAG Heuer’s plan of complete vertical integration. The CH 80 makes it debut in the Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph, a vintage style driver’s chronograph inspired by the original “panda” dial Carrera watches of the sixties.

The Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph has three counters, with the constant seconds at six, plus a date window in between four and five. It has a 41 mm, polished steel case, with pump style pushers.

Dial choices are either black or white with contrasting sub-dials and red accents. It is available either on bracelet or with a perforated “rally” leather strap with red lining.

The display back reveals the CH 80 movement, which has all the features common in modern, higher end chronograph movements, namely the column wheel and vertical clutch. Notably it is also relatively slim at just 6.5 mm high (the Valjoux 7750 is just under 8 mm), with a long power reserve of 80 hours, or just over three days.

The CH 80 movement builds on the experience of the development of the Calibre 1887 chronograph movement, which TAG Heuer unveiled in 2009. Though initially claimed to be an in-house movement, after some controversy the 1887 turned out to be based on the Seiko 6S37 movement, though it was modified and made in Switzerland by TAG Heuer.

Most of the movement is made in-house, with the escapement parts made by Atokalpa, a sister company of Parmigiani. TAG Heuer notes that the CH 80 is capable of being produced in large volumes, bringing the brand a step closer to its target of making 100,000 chronograph annually by 2015. The Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph will retail for 5200 Swiss francs before taxes, equivalent to about US$5860.

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