De Bethune unveiled the DB25 IX Maya at SIHH 2012, created to commemorate the Ninth Mayan Underworld, part of an exceptionally complex Mayan calendar. It is fitted with a hand-engraved, solid gold dial covered in Mayan hieroglyphics and motifs.

De Bethune is better known for its avant-garde designs with equally innovative movements, but this is a relatively classical timepiece.  The solid yellow gold dial is an interesting juxtaposition of new and old. The central portion is hand engraved with Mayan hierogylphs by Michèle Rothen, with all the hallmarks of hand engraving.

In contrast the outer chapter ring with hour indices in Mayan script, is laser engraved, perfectly sharp and even.

All the blue elements on the dial are flame blued steel, while the hands are clear sapphire with blue steel tips, so as not to obscure any of the engraving.

The case is polished white gold with De Bethune’s signature open lugs, while the movement is a hand-wound calibre with 8 days power reserve, as well as its proprietary platinum and titanium balance wheel.

Only 12 will be made and the retail is about CHF90,000. Other models with similar engraved dials are in the pipeline. – SJX

Michele Rothen’s signature on the case

The 70 nominees for the seven categories of the 2012 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève have just been announced. As usual it’s a mixed bag of deserving and significant watches, alongside less interesting ones. And unsurprisingly there are watches that seem incongruous in their category also – like the Montblanc Bi-Frequence as a sports watch?

The winners will be selected by the jury (which is listed at the bottom of this page) and announced on November 15, 2012.

– SJX