Tudor’s bestseller just got a new update. The new Black Bay 58 builds upon last year’s burgundy version, coming in the beloved black dial with gilt accents configuration. Not only did the iconic vintage-inspired diver get slimmer and better proportioned, but it also come with a choice of three different straps.

Initial thoughts

Ever since Tudor was rejuvenated the brand became almost synonymous with the well-built and equally well-styled Black Bay collection. The model line grew to include various complications, from GMT functions to chronographs all while retaining the core vintage-coded aesthetic. 

This streamlined “BB58” format was first introduced in 2024 with the Black Bay 58 GMT. The watch featured sleeker case proportions, a METAS-certified movement and a slimmer, more practical crown. 

A burgundy version of the time-only Black Bay then followed and now Tudor adapts arguably their most iconic configuration to this updated format. 

Due to its proportions, overall construction and colour scheme the watch strongly resembles the vintage Rolex Ref. 6538. The watch was famously worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in the first ever Bond movie, Dr. No. Tudor’s new case proportions work so well with the vintage-inspired black and gilt dial that the new reference is guaranteed to be a big hit with Bond fans. 

Notably, the new Black Bay 58 comes with a choice of two steel bracelets and a rubber strap. Apart from the Oyster-inspired faux-rivet three-link bracelet Tudor also offers a Jubilee-style five-link bracelet and a high quality rubber strap with metallic end links.  

Although both new straps are clearly inspired to a degree by Rolex’s iconic offerings, they fit the Black Bay 58 nicely and are executed to a high level of quality. Having handled the five-link bracelet I can say the construction is sturdy but light, with the slim links hugging the wrist nicely. 

Inside the updated reference beats the METAS-certified MT5400-U caliber. A capable machine, the caliber is a downsized version of the MT56xx-series of Tudor manufacture movements, tailored down to fit the 39 mm case.

Vintage feel, modern execution

The watch measures 39 mm in diameter and a well-proportioned 11.7 mm in thickness. Much like with most Black Bays the case construction is straightforward, with a blend of polished and brushed surfaces. Although the proportions have changed considerably, this latest reference retains the lug bevels that have characterised the model line since its inception. 

The dial is straightforward, with large indices and gilded hands. The hour hand is still a snowflake hand while the seconds hand has a more conventional circular pip. There is little text on the dial, which benefits the small format. The 60-click diver bezel still has an aluminium insert and feels chunky and crisp. 

The three bracelet options are all highly qualitative, although the Jubilee-inspired five-link option is the most appealing. The links have ellipsoid profiles, making for a silky-smooth feel. The rubber strap is well executed as well, but its modern style doesn’t work all that well with the vintage-looking Black Bay 58. 

All three bracelet options come with Tudor’s T-Fit clasp, which is second in quality only to Rolex’s clasps. The T-Fit system allows an easy on the fly extension of the bracelet and the clasp closes securely, locked by a latch. Tudor’s T-Fit clasp comfortably puts to shame clasps found in timepieces costing many times over the price of a Black Bay 58. 

Familiar movement

The MT5400-U caliber is the smaller — but equally robust — cousin of the MT56xx-series of movements. While the active part of the movement only measures about 26 mm, the entire construction clocks in at 30.3 mm due to an oversized mainplate. The particular execution mitigates the need for a movement ring and was first introduced with the Black Bay 58 925 in order to look better through the transparent caseback. 

Caliber MT5400-U will run for 65 hours on a full wind and beats at 4 Hz using a silicon hairspring. The “U” designation means the movement is also Master Chronometer certified by METAS inside Tudor’s own licensed facilities.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay 58
Ref. 7939A1A0NU

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 11.7 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5400-U
Features: Hours, minutes and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Steel three-link rivet bracelet, five-link bracelet or rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF4,350 on five-link bracelet; CHF 4,250 on rivet-style bracelet; CHF4,050 on rubber strap. (VAT included)

For more information, visit Tudorwatch.com.