An eighties icon that is finding fresh footing, Raymond Weil has extended its GPHG-winning dress watch collection with the Millesime Small Seconds 39 mm “Tuxedo”. Available in three appealing colourways, the Millesime features Art Deco-inspired typography that brings a surprising degree of energy to the line-up’s familiar sector-style dial.

Initial thoughts

Raymond Weil was one of the biggest names in Swiss watchmaking in the 1980s and 1990s. Raymond Weil himself was one of the first entrepreneurs to see a future for mechanical watchmaking amidst the rubble of the quartz crisis, launching his eponymous brand in 1976. While peak production is in the past, the brand seems to have rebounded with a collection of well-received dress watches and savvy limited editions.

The new Millesime Small Seconds embodies the carefully considered details that have underpinned the brand’s recent resurgence. It’s not revolutionary by any means, but at just US$2,295 it offers an affordable entry point to the world of Swiss dress watches.

Affordability is one thing, but appeal is another. Fortunately the 39 mm Millesime hits many of the right notes in each of the three colourways, including a so-called ‘tuxedo’ configuration in either classic back and white or on-trend burgundy, as well as a dark blue option that might be the dark horse favourite.

Art Deco trio

All three models have a few key things in common, starting with the stainless steel case. The Millesime measures 39 mm in diameter and is just over 10 mm thick. It’s a widely accommodating size, small enough to pass as a dress watch but large enough to have a degree of presence. The RW4251 movement contained within is just 25.6 mm in diameter, proving the case size is intentional.

A press-fit case back ensures 50 m of water resistance, making the case robust enough for daily wear. Furthermore, quick-release spring bars on the standard calfskin strap make it easy to cycle through different options. This versatility will appeal to budget-minded collectors looking for ways to maximise each dollar spent.

The case design is straightforward, but the vertically brushed and beveled bezel is worth highlighting, as is the domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind the acrylic crystals found on vintage watches.

The Millesime is available in three colourways, each with three concentric sectors and central cross hairs. The lacquered chapter rings for the hours features arabic numerals in an Art Deco-style font that somehow feels both fresh and familiar.

The small seconds layout is also fairly unusual in the segment, but it’s welcome. The relocation of the seconds to a sub-dial at six o’clock reveals the polished tip of the canon pinion at the base of the minutes hand, enhancing the refined feel of the Millesime.

Unfortunately, the dial designer didn’t get the memo to remove the hash marks around the periphery of the dial, which are clearly calibrated for a 4 Hz central seconds hand. In fairness, many watches at much higher price points have the same issue, and the superfluous indications add a measure of instrument-like intrigue that suits the sector-style dial.

An economical engine

The Millesime is powered by the RW4251, Raymond Weil’s name for the Sellita SW261-1. It’s a compact industrial movement built for longevity and easy servicing, so it doesn’t boast any technical fireworks. But substantively it’s entirely in line with the brand’s strategy of offering affordable, reliable watches with an emphasis on style.

Fortunately, the no-date format of the watch is mirrored within by a platform-specific keyless works that bypasses what would otherwise be a ghost position for the crown. This is a nice touch that speaks to the breadth of Sellita’s off-the-shelf movement portfolio.

Key facts and price

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 39 mm
Ref. 2930-STC-05642 (tuxedo)
Ref. 2930-STC-05502 (dark blue)
Ref. 2930-STC-05450 (burgundy)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.25 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. RW4251
Functions: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 41 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Raymond Weil boutiques and retailers 
Price: US$2,295 excluding taxes

For more, visit raymond-weil.com