One of Louis Vuitton’s most distinctive complications, the Escale Worldtime was recently revised and upgraded, giving it improved legibility and an in-house movement. The nips and tucks have given the watch a sleeker, more refined aesthetic, while making the technicolour dial more readable.

It’s still far from a “tool” watch, but the second-generation Escale Worldtime has all of the charm of the original that’s now grounded in solid, credible watchmaking.

Initial thoughts

I’m biased because I am a fan of the original Worldtime, right from when it was launched in 2014. The original was decidedly impractical, way too expensive, but an imaginatively different take on the classic Louis Cottier world time. The new model has all of the appeal of the original, but with a superior execution in substance and form.

The new version has smoothed out all of the rough edges of the original, quite literally in some respects. The case is now finer, with more refined lines and a gently domed crystal, for instance. Functionality has improved substantially with a hand for the minutes and a jumping hours display. And the movement is now a latest-generation calibre, part of a family of industrial-haute horlogerie movements developed by LFT that is an achievement on its own.

The LFT VO12.01 movement features a 22k pink gold rotor with a guilloche rim

The Escale Worldtime costs over US$90,000, or about 10% more than the Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5330G in white gold. The Escale, however, is in platinum and has a hand-painted dial; the LFT movement inside is also comparable to Geneva’s best industrial-haute horlogerie makers. The Escale Worldtime an expensive watch, but comparatively speaking does offer value.

New and improved

Side by side with the original, the new Escale Worldtime is clearly different, and better. It looks and feels more sophisticated, with a case that is smaller and slimmer, as well as a convex bezel and domed crystal.

The original is only 1 mm wider and a little taller, but seems noticeably larger. As a result, the first generation now looks oversized and a little basic in comparison.

The new Escale Worldtime (left), and the original of 2014

The good impression continues on the wrist, with the case dimensions being nearly ideal. At 40 mm in diameter and just 10.3 mm high, the case has good proportions that are neither too large nor too small.

Though compact, the case has some heft, being platinum. This sets it apart from the first generation that was only available in gold, or a combination of gold and titanium.

Though the case has clearly been reworked, it remains the Escale design. From the front the look is subtle and barely different from an average round watch case, but in profile the case reveals its defining feature in the form of “riveted” lugs inspired by Louis Vuitton trunks.

The biggest improvement visually over the previous generation is the dial and display. Legibility is vastly better.

Instead of a fixed pointer, minutes are now indicated via a conventional hand. More crucially, the hours disc is now a jumping display read against a fixed arrow-shaped marker. The hour changes instantaneously at the top of the hour, eliminating the confusion that arose at certain times when reading the time on the earlier model that had a “dragging” display.

The new display also makes the dial a little more three dimensional, as opposed to the flat appearance found on the first version. The granular texture on the dial centre adds this feeling, though it is meant to echo the texture of Louis Vuitton monogram canvas.

The historically inspired “Fab. en Suisse”, French for “Swiss made” is now a recurring feature across Louis Vuitton watches

The defining element of the dial has been retained: the hand-painted cities disc for the world time. Reminiscent of nautical pennants, the multi-coloured emblems on the cities disc discreetly incorporate the Louis Vuitton monogram on a handful of boxes.

The “flags” are painted by an artisan – with a fine-tipped brush and a steady hand under a microscope – in acrylic paint that is then fired in an oven to dry. This technique is not as complex as enamel (which is done for the pricier Escale Worldtime Flying Tourbillon), but still clearly a time-consuming artisanal process.

The cities ring is painted by hand. Image – Louis Vuitton

The elements of the cities disc have been subtly redesigned as well, with the city abbreviations presented in a smaller font so they look a little more appropriately sized for each box. The same holds true for the numerals of the 24-hour scale, which are now better spaced to make reading easier.

Industrial-haute horlogerie

The LFT VO12.01 inside is part of the family of movements that debuted last year with the Spin Time. Conceived to be versatile enough to underpin Louis Vuitton’s offerings, while also being high-end enough to be consider high horology, the movement family certainly lives up to expectations. And compared to the ETA 2892 inside the first-generation Worldtime, the LFT VO12.01 is outstanding.

The LFT VO12.01 is one of the larger diameter movements in the family, and has an in-house world time and jumping hours module on top. Despite the additional complications, the height remains manageable, allowing the case to remain thin.

As expected, the LFT VO12.01 has the details expected of such a movement, including a free-sprung balance with Geneva-style stud carrier, solid-gold rotor, no wire springs, and so on. More notably, the LFT VO12.01 has a longish 62-hour power reserve, about 40% more than the Spin Time movements that have a smaller diameter.

A tiny citrine embedded on the case back indicates the case is platinum, a detail perhaps inspired by Patek Philippe

The movement aesthetic is Louis Vuitton style, comprised of a unique combination of recessed, frosted surfaces and circular graining for the bridges, clear jewels, along with a gold rotor featuring an engine-turned rim.

Personally, I am not a fan of the frosted bridges, but I concede they give the movement its own character. Conventional striping would have been, well, conventional, and probably bland.

The look is a little busy, but it is recognisable, which is notable in itself, since a new design language for movements something few have accomplished well.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime
Ref. W3PTA1

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.3 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. LFT VO12.01
Functions: Minutes, jumping hours, world time
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 62 hours

Strap: Blue calf leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: US$94,500 excluding taxes

For more, visit LouisVuitton.com.