The Classic Tech Art is a new bespoke time-only piece from independent watchmaking duo Molnar Fabry. While this exact configuration is unique, similar designs can be commissioned from the Slovakia-based creators.

Molnar Fabry is a small outfit formed by Michal Molnar and Igor Fabry, a Slovakian duo originally trained in high jewellery. As they became more and more interested in the world of high horology, their work has shifted from plain jewellery towards bespoke watches featuring thoughtful details and extensive skeletonisation. 

Initial thoughts

The Classic Tech Art unique piece is a good example of the Slovakian duo’s modus operandi. Starting off from a Vaucher Seed 5401 ébauche, the watchmakers applied extensive finishing to both seen and unseen surfaces within the movement.

Molnar Fabry’s calling card is open-worked movements and the Class Tech Art doesn’t disappoint in that respect. While the case back side of the movement is richly engraved but structurally unaltered, the tastefully open-worked dial reveals the usually hidden assemblies that make the Vaucher calibre tick.

Originally trained as jewellers, the duo behind Molnar Fabry operates outside the influence of many Swiss watchmaking traditions. As a result, the brand’s house style of finishing is somewhat unorthodox. Mixes of metals are on show, along with a rich blend of textures and shapes. 

The style might not be to everyone’s tastes, but Molnar Fabry’s work feels refreshingly original in today’s market. The two watchmakers shift the focus from proprietary movements and high-tech specs to true hand finishing. 

That said, the Classic Tech Art exemplifies a more streamlined vision of the brand’s design language, opting away from the excessively ornate cases the brand has produced in the past. This may point towards them going more mainstream — at least to the extent that a bespoke piece unique can ever be described as mainstream.

Given the extent of the engraving and hand finishing, the Classic Tech Art is not inexpensive. But in terms of craft, the sub-€50,000 price point still undercuts Swiss rivals offering similarly bespoke products. This is largely due to Molnar Fabry leaning into its own strengths, including mastery of small-scale production.

Hand finishing all over

In the past, Molnar Fabry has built many large, ostentatious watches. That’s not a criticism, since many (if not all) have been designed for specific clients. Against this backdrop, the Classic Tech Art is notable for its more contemporary almost minimalist case. In a bi-metal 38 mm construction, the case is fully made in-house by Molnar Fabry, from metal blank to hand-applied finishes. The well-sized case of the Classic Tech Art looks like a modern interpretation of the cornes de vache design, with angular lugs that protrude slightly from the case. 

The case band is crafted from a texture-rich grade 5 titanium alloy, which gives the case a modern matte look. The bezel and case back are made from highly polished 18k pink gold, which creates appealing contrast with the dark grainy hues of the titanium mid-case.

Due to the material’s unusual properties, titanium cases have long been the domain of industrial case makers. Molnar Fabry’s ability to work with grade 5 titanium in-house really speaks to their metalworking skills and strong background in jewellery. The gold work is equally well done, but mastery of gold is table stakes at this level .

A mechanical jewel

Inside the Classic Tech Art, the Vaucher ébauche has been transformed into a jewel itself. The two jewellers-turned-watchmakers are known to take existing movements (from new old-stock repeaters to Christophe Claret tourbillon ébauches) and tweak the aesthetics to the core. While they remain mostly finishing-oriented for now, the two watchmakers wish to eventually develop their own movement and be accepted as full-time Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) members.

The first view of the movement can be seen through the open-worked dial. A small rose gold central dial features deeply relief-engraved roman numerals for the hour markers, while a sloped dotted ring on the margin provides resolution for the minutes. The warm tones of the dial and nameplates provide contrast with the cooler tones of the open-worked dial plate, echoing the contemporary design of the case.

The rest of the watch face shows glimpses of the movement components through generous layered apertures. The titanium dial plate is cut in intertwined circular patterns, with the motif vaguely resembling a spider. The pattern can be symmetrical because it’s actually a separate piece that sits atop the open-worked mainplate of the movement.

The contemporary combination of colours and coarse circular brushing probably explain the ‘tech’ moniker, but the rounded bevels are eminently traditional. There are dozens of interior angles as well, and although some look less sharp than one might expect, this could be due to in part to the fact that many large brands are now using advanced techniques including Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) to cut inward angles prior to polishing.

The openings also reveal consistent bevelling and polishing of the functional components inside the watch. For example, the winding works are visible at the top of the dial, opposite the underside of the escapement near seven o’clock. At three o’clock, the operation of the keyless works can be observed.

Interestingly, the case back side of the movement is not open-worked. Instead, the two watchmakers opted for hand engraving of the plates and bridges. The engraved motifs bear some resemblance to leitmotifs found in Eastern and Central European folklore, which favour vines and flowery sloping patterns, and also resemble the ornamental engravings found on top-quality sporting firearms.

The depth and skill of the engraving work is commendable, along with the attention to detail and the general feel of authenticity. Since the majority of watchmaking is rooted in the Swiss, French and German cultures, it is refreshing to see original finishes inspired by a different cultural background. 

While most of the movement components come directly from Vaucher, Molnar Fabry casts the pink gold micro rotor in-house, which speaks to the duo’s capabilities and commitment to their craft. The rotor also bears the fairytale-like vine pattern, and winds the small-ish barrel up to its stated 48-hour power reserve. The core technical specifications of the Vaucher base remain unchanged, and the movement features a free-sprung balance that oscillates at 3 Hz.  

Key facts and price

Molnar Fabry Classic Tech Art

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: 18k pink gold and grade 5 titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Unknown

Movement: Customised Vaucher Seed VMF 5401
Functions: Hours, minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Leather with hand-engraved 18k pink gold pin buckle

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Similar watches are available upon request
Price: Comparable watch will cost about €45,000 before taxes

For more, visit Molnarfabry.com.

One of Louis Vuitton’s most distinctive complications, the Escale Worldtime was recently revised and upgraded, giving it improved legibility and an in-house movement. The nips and tucks have given the watch a sleeker, more refined aesthetic, while making the technicolour dial more readable.

It’s still far from a “tool” watch, but the second-generation Escale Worldtime has all of the charm of the original that’s now grounded in solid, credible watchmaking.

Initial thoughts

I’m biased because I am a fan of the original Worldtime, right from when it was launched in 2014. The original was decidedly impractical, way too expensive, but an imaginatively different take on the classic Louis Cottier world time. The new model has all of the appeal of the original, but with a superior execution in substance and form.

The new version has smoothed out all of the rough edges of the original, quite literally in some respects. The case is now finer, with more refined lines and a gently domed crystal, for instance. Functionality has improved substantially with a hand for the minutes and a jumping hours display. And the movement is now a latest-generation calibre, part of a family of industrial-haute horlogerie movements developed by LFT that is an achievement on its own.

The LFT VO12.01 movement features a 22k pink gold rotor with a guilloche rim

The Escale Worldtime costs over US$90,000, or about 10% more than the Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5330G in white gold. The Escale, however, is in platinum and has a hand-painted dial; the LFT movement inside is also comparable to Geneva’s best industrial-haute horlogerie makers. The Escale Worldtime an expensive watch, but comparatively speaking does offer value.

New and improved

Side by side with the original, the new Escale Worldtime is clearly different, and better. It looks and feels more sophisticated, with a case that is smaller and slimmer, as well as a convex bezel and domed crystal.

The original is only 1 mm wider and a little taller, but seems noticeably larger. As a result, the first generation now looks oversized and a little basic in comparison.

The new Escale Worldtime (left), and the original of 2014

The good impression continues on the wrist, with the case dimensions being nearly ideal. At 40 mm in diameter and just 10.3 mm high, the case has good proportions that are neither too large nor too small.

Though compact, the case has some heft, being platinum. This sets it apart from the first generation that was only available in gold, or a combination of gold and titanium.

Though the case has clearly been reworked, it remains the Escale design. From the front the look is subtle and barely different from an average round watch case, but in profile the case reveals its defining feature in the form of “riveted” lugs inspired by Louis Vuitton trunks.

The biggest improvement visually over the previous generation is the dial and display. Legibility is vastly better.

Instead of a fixed pointer, minutes are now indicated via a conventional hand. More crucially, the hours disc is now a jumping display read against a fixed arrow-shaped marker. The hour changes instantaneously at the top of the hour, eliminating the confusion that arose at certain times when reading the time on the earlier model that had a “dragging” display.

The new display also makes the dial a little more three dimensional, as opposed to the flat appearance found on the first version. The granular texture on the dial centre adds this feeling, though it is meant to echo the texture of Louis Vuitton monogram canvas.

The historically inspired “Fab. en Suisse”, French for “Swiss made” is now a recurring feature across Louis Vuitton watches

The defining element of the dial has been retained: the hand-painted cities disc for the world time. Reminiscent of nautical pennants, the multi-coloured emblems on the cities disc discreetly incorporate the Louis Vuitton monogram on a handful of boxes.

The “flags” are painted by an artisan – with a fine-tipped brush and a steady hand under a microscope – in acrylic paint that is then fired in an oven to dry. This technique is not as complex as enamel (which is done for the pricier Escale Worldtime Flying Tourbillon), but still clearly a time-consuming artisanal process.

The cities ring is painted by hand. Image – Louis Vuitton

The elements of the cities disc have been subtly redesigned as well, with the city abbreviations presented in a smaller font so they look a little more appropriately sized for each box. The same holds true for the numerals of the 24-hour scale, which are now better spaced to make reading easier.

Industrial-haute horlogerie

The LFT VO12.01 inside is part of the family of movements that debuted last year with the Spin Time. Conceived to be versatile enough to underpin Louis Vuitton’s offerings, while also being high-end enough to be consider high horology, the movement family certainly lives up to expectations. And compared to the ETA 2892 inside the first-generation Worldtime, the LFT VO12.01 is outstanding.

The LFT VO12.01 is one of the larger diameter movements in the family, and has an in-house world time and jumping hours module on top. Despite the additional complications, the height remains manageable, allowing the case to remain thin.

As expected, the LFT VO12.01 has the details expected of such a movement, including a free-sprung balance with Geneva-style stud carrier, solid-gold rotor, no wire springs, and so on. More notably, the LFT VO12.01 has a longish 62-hour power reserve, about 40% more than the Spin Time movements that have a smaller diameter.

A tiny citrine embedded on the case back indicates the case is platinum, a detail perhaps inspired by Patek Philippe

The movement aesthetic is Louis Vuitton style, comprised of a unique combination of recessed, frosted surfaces and circular graining for the bridges, clear jewels, along with a gold rotor featuring an engine-turned rim.

Personally, I am not a fan of the frosted bridges, but I concede they give the movement its own character. Conventional striping would have been, well, conventional, and probably bland.

The look is a little busy, but it is recognisable, which is notable in itself, since a new design language for movements something few have accomplished well.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime
Ref. W3PTA1

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.3 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. LFT VO12.01
Functions: Minutes, jumping hours, world time
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 62 hours

Strap: Blue calf leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: US$94,500 excluding taxes

For more, visit LouisVuitton.com.