News

Eighties Luxe: Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone

Bi-colour but one metal.

Having already launched it in yellow gold and then white gold, Piaget has logically followed up with the Polo 79 Two-Tone. While very much predictable, the Polo 79 Two-Tone is arguably the best looking of the trio with its retro combination of metals that are yellow and white gold, and not steel.

The new Polo 79 is otherwise identical to its predecessors, right down to the cal. 1200P movement and “slotted” construction of the case and bracelet.

Initial thoughts

The Polo 79 Two-Tone isn’t a surprise but it’s a good looking watch that has more appeal than its single-colour counterparts. The combination of yellow and white gold feels distinctly 1980s and true to the spirit of the watch.

Though not imaginative, the Polo 79 is solidly executed in any of its forms. The case and bracelet are done well, while the cal. 1200P is a tried-and-tested workhorse that is also impressively thin; it’s a little industrial but acceptable overall.

The cal. 1200P

The fact that the two-tone model is two colours of gold, rather than steel and gold, is a nice touch. But that means it is expensive, even more expensive than the single-tone versions that are already pricey. This costs US$91,000, while the yellow gold model is US$77,000.

The price premium doesn’t really make sense since it’s essentially the same thing in terms of gold value and finishing (though it is arguable that white gold costs a little more than yellow).

The Polo 79 line-up

Polo glamour

The two-tone Polo is hardly a novel idea as Piaget offered a multitude of Polo models in two-tone livery in the past. The combination is somewhat more unusual today since two-tone is largely out of favour. The combination works well with the Polo, and is coherent with both the design and origins of the watch.

A 1986 Piaget Polo ad

The Polo 79 Two-Tone is literally a combination of the white and yellow gold models. It’s basically a white gold model with the white gold gadroons replaced by yellow gold equivalents.

The contrasting colours not only add to the retro feel of the watch, but bring out the linear design of the Polo.

Like its single-tone siblings, the two-tone version has a “slotted” construction with the elements of the case and bracelet slotted into one another. The tolerances of the components are fine, so there is no visible joining between the parts.

This particular construction gives the bracelet a firm feel, though it is supple enough that is sits well on the wrist. The ergonomics are especially useful given the weight of the watch.

The display back reveals the cal. 1200P, a movement that is typical of Piaget. It’s relatively large in diameter, but thin thanks in part to the micro-rotor. It’s been in Piaget’s catalogue for a long time, explaining a relatively short 44-hour power reserve. The longevity, however, means the cal. 1200P is a known quantity in terms of performance.

Though competently executed, it could do with finer detailing, a common weakness in movements of this era from Piaget and its sister companies.

Key facts and price

Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone
Ref. G0A51150

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 7.45 mm
Material: 18k yellow and white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 1200P1
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 44 hours

Strap: 18k yellow and white gold bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Piaget boutiques and retailers
Price: US$91,000, or 129,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Piaget.com.

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Independent watchmaking

Mermont’s La Parfaite Goes Platinum

A platinum watch in this economy?

Startup independent brand Mermont has just made its public debut with the heavyweight La Parfaite, translating as “perfect one” in French. Assembled and adjusted by independent watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, La Parfaite is among the most affordable platinum watches on the market, despite its contemporary case size and upscale construction.

Initial thoughts

At first glance, Mermont’s debut watch could pass for a handsome, stainless steel Breguet Souscription homage, probably priced accordingly. However, La Parfaite is not stainless steel, it is (mostly) platinum – and surprisingly affordable.

Sebastien Bey-Haut, a watch and photography enthusiast, founded the brand, enlisting none other than Nicolas Delaloye, a Genevan watchmaker and AHCI member, to bring it to life. Though less commercially successful than some of his peers, Mr Delaloye is a respected independent watchmaker who spent eight years with the Patek Philippe Museum. Mr Delaloye personally polishes the single hour hand, performs final adjustment, and cases up the watches.

It’s unusual for an upstart brand to debut with a precious metal watch, but that’s exactly what Mermont has done. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from focusing on the value proposition, pricing the La Parfaite well below industry norms for a platinum watch, especially a full size mechanical watch.

Priced at CHF10,998 before taxes, La Parfaite is a full 38 mm in diameter and certainly among the least expensive mechanical platinum watches at retail. That makes it an interesting proposition, especially given the noted watchmaker at the bench.

Case and face

The watch has a single hour hand, Breguet numerals, and a secret signature above six o’clock – all reminiscent of Breguet’s well-received Classique Souscription 2025 launched just last year. That said, the smaller case is markedly different, and the dial’s snailed texture and blue lacquer finish result in a watch that is quite distinct from its likely inspiration.

The mid case, bezel, crown and pin buckle are platinum, while the case back is tantalum; both tedious materials to work with. Platinum is also extremely expensive as a material, especially recently. While rising gold prices have captured headlines, platinum prices have reached near-parity with 18k gold for the first time in years.

While there are a number of relatively inexpensive gold watches on the market, from brands such as Tissot and Titan – the Indian market’s affinity for gold is well known – platinum is another matter.

Besides the tantalum case back there are no other obvious signs of cut corners. The case walls are no thinner than you’d find on many precious metal watches costing significantly more, and the case design is surprisingly intricate. Note the strap is secured by screwed bars, rather than the usual spring bars.

On one hand

The other notable detail is the hand, which is made from stainless steel, heat treated and then hand polished by Mr Delaloye. The design appears to be a riff on the a traditional Breguet hand, but rendered with a significant degree of three-dimensionality and a heart-shaped opening. The hours track has a resolution of ten minutes, compared to the Classique Souscription’s five.

The master’s touch

Unlike last year’s Classique Souscription 2025 from Breguet, La Parfaite is powered by a two-hand movement, but the minutes hand is replaced by a polished steel cap. The movement is a La Joux Perret D101, essentially a clone of the Peseux 7001. Mermont uses the highest trim level offered off-the-shelf, soignée vis bleues, referring to the Côte de Genève finish and blue screws.

La Joux Perret’s stated accuracy tolerance for these movements is merely +/-7 seconds per day, tested in three positions. However, per Mermont, Mr Delaloye individually adjusts each movement to within three seconds per day on average. That is probably excessive for a watch without a minute hand, but still appreciated.