Omega continues to widen its already diverse Speedmaster offerings with the Speedmaster Moonwatch in “reverse panda” livery. Available in steel or 18k Moonshine gold, the latest iteration of the classic chronograph features a black dial in mirrored black lacquer with contrasting white registers, along with a ceramic insert for the tachymeter bezel. It’s something of a riff on the Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial launched in 2024.

Initial thoughts

This is an appealing variation of a classic. It might bring to mind past models with similar “reverse panda” dials, but the double-layer lacquered dial looks and feels quite different from earlier dials. The glossy surfaces is a pleasing upgrade that gives this a little more refinement.

Like other recent Moonwatch iterations, this facelift moves the spaceflight-qualified chronograph upmarket while still retaining its technical credentials thanks to the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861 inside. Admittedly this strays a little from the “tool watch” roots of the Moonwatch, which was originally a no-frills chronograph. But the upgrades are not merely cosmetic – the dial is actually superior in terms of execution and finish, as is the bezel, case, and most importantly, movement. The cal. 3861 is clearly a big step forward compared to its predecessor.

The lacquered dials don’t cost that much more than the standard equivalent with a matte black dial, which makes them a good alternative for someone who wants a Moonwatch that isn’t the base model. As with the other versions of the Moonwatch, the steel version is relatively good value for a high-quality chronograph is unquestionably iconic. The gold version is a big step up that is hard to justify.

Lacquered and layered

The “reverse panda” dial is a two-level construction made up of a black-lacquered upper dial with apertures and a lower disc lacquered in white; the lower disc shows through the apertures to form the chronograph registers. The upper disc includes a step on its circumference, a detail borrowed from the historical Moonwatch.

Another detail borrowed from the vintage Moonwatch is the “dot over 90” bezel, but here the bezel insert is black ceramic instead of the traditional aluminium. Besides being fade resistant, ceramic also has the benefit of being scratch resistant, both of which aluminium falls short on.

The case is classic Moonwatch with a 42 mm diameter. While both the gold and steel versions share the same diameter and case middle, the gold model is slightly thicker, presumably due to a different construction resulting from the material. Both cases, however, are equally water resistant with a 50 m rating.

The view from the back is identical to other current generation Moonwatch models: it’s the cal. 3861, the latest take on the venerable movement that has been found in the Moonwatch since the 1970s.

Though visually similar to the cal. 861/1861 that was a staple in the Moonwatch for decades, the cal. 3861 was reworked and upgraded, most notably with a Co-Axial escapement and silicon hairspring, as well as Master Chronometer certification, all of which pretty much guarantee solid timekeeping and resistance to environment factors like magnetism and temperature fluctuations.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch “Reverse Panda”
Ref. 310.60.42.50.01.002 (Moonshine gold)
Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004 (stainless steel)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.63 mm (gold) or 13.54 (steel)
Material: 18k Moonshine yellow gold or stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3861
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per second (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Bracelet in steel or Moonshine gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$49,300 in Moonshine gold; US$10,400 in steel

For more, visit omegawatches.com.

India Watch Weekend returns for the second time this year, underlining the growth of the luxury watch market in the country. While Indian clients have long been patrons of luxury watchmakers, many historically shopped outside the country in places like Dubai and London. Now clients are moving towards domestic consumption, explaining rising sales in-country and events like India Watch Weekend.

India Watch Weekend is happening in Mumbai, the nation’s commercial capital. Amongst the brands taking part are big brands like A. Lange & Söhne, Grand Seiko, but also independents like Ming and Dunselman Watchmaking. Also present for the first time is the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), a trade body dedicated to horological education.

The event will take place over the weekend of January 17 and 18 at the Four Seasons. It’s open to the public but tickets are required. For more, visit Indiawatchweekend.com, while tickets can be purchased online.

Though it was launched in 2022, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton still stands out within the catalogue for being the only Overseas in titanium. Vacheron Constantin (VC) has rolled out a pair of limited editions in the lightweight metal, a logical choice for sports watches, but the Overseas tourbillon, in both skeleton and conventional format, is the only regular production model.

With its lightness and colour, the metal adds to the appeal of the Overseas tourbillon (which was already pretty good in steel). The skeleton version is further enhanced by the style and finishing of the movement, which is as good as expected of VC, and better than preceding calibres.

Initial thoughts

The Overseas tourbillon is a large watch and it feels large, but fortunately it is slim, giving it an elegant profile – which is how the best luxury-sports watches should be. Because it is in titanium – which is an uncommon metal for high-end sports watches – the watch is also light, even with the bracelet. This gives it an appealing feel on the wrist.

The Overseas tourbillon looks good on its face, and is also surprisingly legible despite being skeletonised. The open-worked movement gives the watch a technical appearance that suits the material and purpose, while the prominent tourbillon showcases its haute horlogerie qualifications; the tourbillon is one of the most elaborately decorated elements of the movement.

But one of the best traits of this watch is relative – the execution of the skeleton calibre is improved over the preceding generation of open-worked movements. VC and its peers like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe are clearly makers of industrial-high horology, but the cal. 2160 SQ keeps a close eye on the high horology aspect.

This is reassuring as it demonstrates VC knows what it needs to do to maintain its position; this also bodes well for the next generation of movements, thought that will probably be some time away.

In terms of price, the Overseas skeleton tourbillon costs what a watch like that does today; it is an expensive watch but competitive against alternatives. And there aren’t that many alternatives in titanium, since most of the watches in this class are either steel or precious metal.

Large, light

The case is consistent with the rest of the Overseas line in terms of design and finish. Though not as established as its peers that were conceived much earlier, the Overseas design has come into its own, especially with this latest generation. The incorporation of the Maltese cross into the bezel and bracelet are a nice touch.

That said, the design of the Overseas doesn’t have the same degree of complexity in surfaces and edges as its peers. It’s not a criticism per se, since the case quality is as good as it can be, but it is a characteristic of the watch.

Like all current Overseas models, this is equipped with a nifty quick-release mechanism for the bracelet: pull on a tab and the bracelet can be removed and exchanged for a strap. The watch is thus delivered with additional straps in rubber and calfskin.

It’s effective and easy to use, but I think the bracelet is the best option for this watch and wouldn’t swap it out. Other Overseas models, especially those in precious metals, do work well on a strap though.

Squelette-ed

The cal. 2160 SQ inside is essentially the open-worked version of VC’s thin, automatic tourbillon calibre. Open working the movement reveals its key features behind its slimness, namely the winding mechanism driven by a peripheral rotor and “Magic Lever” winding. These make the movement wider than it would otherwise be, but it is a good tradeoff in a modern watch sized like the Overseas.

In its standard guise, the movement is found in VC’s entry-level tourbillon watches that are good but not quite great. The skeletonised version of the movement in this Overseas, however, is significantly more sophisticated and refined.

The look is modern, as is typical in watchmaking today, and it’s a good fit for a sports watch. The bridges are coated a dark grey, allowing the 22k gold peripheral rotor and gold-plated wheels to stand out.

The details of the movement, however, are classical and suited to a brand like VC. The lines of the bridges are slender and mostly curved, creating shapes that bring to mind historical movements.

Also, VC deserves kudos for elevating the movement decoration here. The decoration is appealing and done well, arguably better than before.

Back in 2020, I pointed out the bevelling in the skeleton perpetual calendar movement in the Overseas that is similar in style, but predates this by several years. This calibre is more refined in its details, a trait that is especially obvious since the open working is revealing.

And of course, the centrepiece is the tourbillon assembly on the front. Both the bridge and cage are steel are finished well; the cage in particular is finely wrought.

Key Facts and Price

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
Ref. 6000V/110R-B934 (titanium)
Ref. 6000V/110T-B935 (pink gold)

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 10.39 mm
Material: Titanium or 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 2160 SQ
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet and additional strap in rubber and leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Titanium model exclusive to boutiques
Price: US$146,000 in titanium; US$170,000 in pink gold (prices exclude taxes)

For more, visit vacheronconstantin.com