The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière builds on the success of the original Bel Canto, which earned praise for being one of the most accessible chiming watches on the market. Its open-worked hour striker module remains the star of the show, combining a tidy architectural layout with a distinctive acoustic signature that sets it apart from anything else in its price segment.

The Lumière keeps that mechanical drama intact but takes a futuristic turn with a smoked sapphire dial, luminous blue-green chapter ring, and a matching rubber strap that glows in the dark. The new execution gives the watch a distinctly modern, almost Tron-like character, yet it remains faithful to the core idea that made the Bel Canto a hit: offering a well finished, technically interesting hour striker at a reasonable price.

Initial thoughts

The Bel Canto made waves upon its release for being a visually dynamic hour striker at a price well below the norm for this complication. Not only cost effective, the hour striker module is neatly designed and well organised on the dial. In this respect, the Bel Canto exceeded previous attempts at making this complication affordable. In other words, it looks as good as it sounds.

The last time we saw new dials for the Bel Canto, the brand went the traditional route with laser-etched guilloché and Roman numerals. This time, the Christopher Ward (CW) is going the other way, with a futuristic luminous treatment that extends to the rubber strap, encircling the wrist with a cool glow.

The new Lumière edition receives a smoked sapphire crystal dial for the hours and minutes, surrounded by an uninterrupted ring made of Globolight, paired with brushed, diamond-polished hands tipped with the same luminous material. The dial ring in particular glows a vivid blue-green, giving the watch a distinctly Tron-like feel. The luminous look reminds me of Ming, arguably the trendsetter for this over-the-top style of lume. On a simple watch this style of lume might be considered derivative, but the functionality of the Bel Canto is enough to set it apart.

Key to the appeal of the Bel Canto is its value-oriented price point. While the Lumière comes at a slight premium relative to previous editions, it remains an unusual value in the world of complications.

A treat for the eyes and ears

Looking at the Lumière, the eye is immediately drawn to the minimalist smoked sapphire crystal dial for the hours and minutes. Raised above the lower plane of the watch face, the dial is ringed with Globolight, which is a type of ceramic imbued with luminous pigment. The continuous ring of lume matches the hour and minute hands, which have Globolight tips.

The lower dial surface is no less elaborate, printed with multiple layers of Super-LumiNova arranged in a sunburst pattern radiating from the time display. Though all markings appear blue in the daylight, by night things get a little more interesting.

The lower section of the lower dial glows blue, while the upper segment, underneath the dial, glows green. The result is a pleasing contrast that gives the Bel Canto an entirely different personality once the lights go out.

The glowing dial and intricate chiming works can be viewed from shallow angles thanks to the raised box-form sapphire crystal, first seen on the Bel Canto Classic. Thanks to the crystal, the dial offers a very three-dimensional look that is uncommon in this segment of the market.

A glowing strap

There are three strap options for the Lumière. The first is CW’s three-link Oyster-style Bader bracelet, in grade 2 titanium, and the brand’s five-link Consort bracelet in the same material. The difference in grades between the bracelet options and the grade 5 titanium case is likely not that noticeable, but the bracelets will scratch more easily, given the lower Vickers rating of grade 2 titanium (natural titanium), so the difference in look will widen over time.

That puts the spotlight on the third option, which not only helps keep the cost under US$5,000, but is also the most unique option: the luminous rubber strap. This technology is not groundbreaking, but it remains uncommon. We’ve seen something similar before from IWC, but it’s a particularly good match for the theme of the Lumière.

A textured white rubber strap by day, the edges of the strap glow blue. On the wrist, the circular glow imitates the ring on the dial, for a harmonious effect.

A striking movement

Housed in a 41 mm grade 5 titanium case, the watch retains the FS01 chiming module, which offers a layered construction visible on the dial side. The hammer, spring, and bridges are hand-finished by Atelier de Polissage Jurassien (APJ) about an hour north of the brand’s manufacture in Biel.

The Bel Canto’s value-oriented pricing dictates the use of a common movement to power the module, the humble but effective Sellita SW200-1. A clone of the ETA 2824, the SW200 is a nearly ideal base calibre for the Bel Canto because it offers good torque for powering complications, a strength that has made it a favourite of independent watchmakers for years.

The SW200-1 is also affordable to procure and service, meaning that the low entry price of the Bel Canto shouldn’t be a ticket to a costly service down the road.

Key facts and price

Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière
Ref. C01-41APT4-T00V0-RW (luminous strap)
Ref. C01-41APT4-T00V0-B0 (three-link bracelet)
Ref. C01-41APT4-T00V0-B1 (five-link bracelet)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.65 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Sellita SW200-1 with FS01 module
Functions: Hours, minutes, and hour-striker function
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Rubber strap or titanium bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Christopher Ward online store or retailers
Price: US$4,910 on rubber strap, $5,205 on three-link bracelet, $5,290 on five-link bracelet, excluding taxes

For more, visit christopherward.com.