Stone dials have become an increasingly visible trend in recent years; once rare, they are now widespread. Yet most rely on a handful of familiar minerals such as malachite, lapis lazuli, and tiger’s eye, leaving little room for novelty. Biver has taken a different approach with the Automatique, offering a far broader and more exotic palette of materials that includes mahogany obsidian, quartzite, and lavender jade—alongside traditional enamel dials crafted by Geneva’s leading specialists.

While the new dials take centre stage, the Automatique itself is largely unchanged, and still features one of the most technically interesting movements in the genre of high-end time-only watches.

Initial thoughts

Mineral stone dials seem to be everywhere these days. Once the domain of brands like Piaget, stone dials have outgrown their niche and become common enough that a cottage industry of suppliers has emerged to supply them at nearly all price points; even Timex offers malachite dials.

But most brands are using the same handful of stone types like malachite, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, and other semi-precious, but actually quite common, minerals. This is where Biver goes its own way, offering a diverse and unusual selection of stone and enamel dials, along with a few ‘ordinary’ dials for more conservative collectors.

In total, 11 new references join the collection, and each has the option for a precious metal bracelet that matches the case material.

As a watch, the Automatique itself is unchanged from past editions, and features the brand’s proprietary micro-rotor automatic with zero-reset central seconds. The choice of automatic winding is not an affectation; precious metal aside, the Automatique is a watch that can be worn every day, with a robust 39 mm case that’s water resistant to 80 m.

Prices vary depending on the choice of dial, case material, and the addition of diamond or sapphire baguettes, from CHF80,000 up to about CHF125,000. Though ‘just’ a time-only watch, it is expensively made from top to bottom; even the movement bridges are made of solid gold, which adds more to the cost of production than one might assume.

Brilliant stones

Having initially launched the Automatique with unusual obsidian and pietersite dials, the brand expands the line-up with equally novel, and arguably even more striking materials like quartzite, lavender jade, and mahogany obsidian.

The latter is among the most appealing. The mahogany obsidian dial is framed with a tone-correct 18k rose gold case and applied chapter ring. The material itself is aptly named, with a swirling, organic pattern that could easily pass for knurled wood. It also calls to mind the Damascus steel dials used by the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Holland & Holland, but with a smoother, glossy texture.

The pink lavender dials are also quite striking, with or without optional baguette diamonds, and may prove to be among the most popular choices given it will likely stand out well on social media. I can understand why, as the colour is rich and unusual, with purple being a fairly uncommon colour for watch dials.

The brightness of the pink lavender highlights the circular chamfer that rings the dial. This machined groove is a small detail, but it has a big effect on the look, visually shrinking the dial and preventing it from looking too plain. The other stone dials have this embellishment as well, but it’s less obvious on the darker stones.

The blue quartzite models are equally impressive, especially with the optional baguette diamond or sapphire hour markers.

Rounding out the set is an uncommon stone called Oeil de Fer. Geology is not my first language, but this mineral is essentially the same thing as tiger iron, like that found on the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR. Comprised of tiger’s eye, red jasper, and hematite, stones like this are typically sourced from Western Australia in one of the planet’s most ancient rock formations, formed roughly three billion years ago.

Against the backdrop of exotic stones, one could easily miss the other dial options being introduced, but that would be a mistake. The vibrant blue Clous de Paris dial, in particular, is an appealing addition to the range for collectors who aren’t moved by stone and enamel.

The Clous de Paris dial debuts alongside a more sober two-tone option that features concentric rings in contrasting vertically brushed and matte textures. Of all the new models being released, this is the reference that feels most similar to earlier editions of the Automatique.

Top quality enamel

Not all enamel dials are created equal; this was a key takeaway from a recent visit to Les Emailleurs de la Cité (EC), which is the source of the striking grey and ‘Bordeaux’ red enamel dials for the Automatique. EC is an artisan enamellist in Geneva’s old town, recently established by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and Florent Olivier Martin. With four experienced enamellists on staff, production is naturally limited, and Biver’s dials made by the same hands that make the dials for the Chronomètre Contemporain.

This is not the first time Biver has tapped EC for enamel dials; that would be the piece unique sold for charity last year. The colours, however, are new, as is the use of lume plots on the dial and thin strips of lume on the faceted dauphine hands.

The lume plots have a surprising impact on the character of the watch, bringing a toolish feel to an overtly luxurious product. It’s a pleasing juxtaposition that is strongly coherent with the instrument-like zero reset functionality of the movement.

An ambitious calibre

While highly finished time-only watches remain the flavour of the day, and the Automatique certainly fits that description, most independent watchmakers rely on simple time-tested manually wound platforms. The JCB-003 movement that powers the Automatique, on the other hand, provides a degree of technical interest that makes it worth a look regardless of the dial choice.

Setting the specs aside for a moment, the movement is constructed almost entirely from 18k white gold, with high palladium content so it won’t discolour with time. The larger bridges are hand-engraved with a traditional straight-line engine, a tedious and costly endeavour. As extravagant as this touch is, the guilloche finish is one of the few things I’d change about the movement; I think a simpler texture would look better given the limited surface area of the bridges.

Functionally, the movement is unique, with a grande sonnerie-style winding click, which is unheard of in an automatic movement. The movement also offers a zero reset functionality, which means the seconds hand snaps back to zero when the crown is pulled, making it easy to synchronise the watch to a reference clock.

This feature is uncommon among centre-seconds movements; the other watches with this feature are similarly costly, including (arguably) the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique “Only Watch”.

Key facts and price

Biver Automatique

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10 mm
Material: Platinum, 18k rose gold, or 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 80 m

Movement: JCB-003-C
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Leather with 18k gold buckle, or five-row Biver bracelet available at additional cost

Limited edition: No, but limited quantities
Availability: Direct from Biver or at authorised retailers
Price:

Two-Tone: CHF80,000
Clous de Paris: CHF85,000
Mahogany obsidian or oeil de fer: CHF89,000
Quartzite or lavender jade: CHF95,000
Lavender jade with diamonds: CHF105,000
Quartzite with diamonds: CHF110,000
Quartzite with sapphires: CHF125,000
Enamel: Upon request

All prices exclude taxes

For more, visit jcbiver.com.