A hit when it was launched a dozen years ago – time does fly – the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon was the first-ever Speedmaster in ceramic. Now Omega has refined and reworked the concept – the case is now almost 1 mm thinner – while retaining the all-ceramic construction and distinctive aesthetic.

The new Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (DSOTM) makes its debut in four variants. The first two stick closely to the original, right down to the same automatic cal. 9900 movement, but in a slimmer format. More notable is the manual-wind version containing the cal. 9908, the first DSOTM offering with this movement, making it even thinner. And it has no date to boot.

Rounding out the quartet is the Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon (GSOTM) that is also manual-wind but powered by the historically-based, Moonwatch-famous cal. 3861. This adopts the lunar-textured surface, front and back, first seen on the Apollo 8 edition.

The first manual-wind DSOTM that has a black-and-red livery

Initial thoughts

Contemporary collectors are spoiled for choice when it comes to the Speedmaster, which is available in seemingly endless configurations. While that’s arguably a criticism, it demonstrates Omega’s industrial prowess, which enables the brand to deliver large volumes of watches that are objectively high quality and equipped with some of the industry’s best chronograph movements, without keeping customers waiting.

Regardless of the shade of grey or black, the watches are instantly recognisable as Speedmasters thanks to the iconic case profile, which at to 44.25 mm is bulked up compared to the classic Speedmaster Moonwatch. The new DSOTM, however, is thinner compared to the first generation model, standing just over 15 mm high for the automatic version (compared to over 16 mm before).

The new DSOTM in its original livery

Omega deserves credit for the richness of the case finishing, which features the same mix of brushed and polished surfaces of its steel counterpart, but with the scratch-proof permanence that only ceramic (and a handful of other exotic materials) can deliver. This has always been a strength of the DSOTM collection and gives the watches a luxurious look and feel. The ceramic dial is also a nice touch.

And the luxurious feel is really the point, since the palette, which ranges from all grey to all black, limits legibility; these are not tool watches in the traditional sense. Instead, it’s an upmarket version of a classic.

Though similar at first glance, the four new references feature three different Master Chronometer-certified movements, each with the brand’s latest generation Co-Axial escapement. Notably absent, however, is the Spirate adjustment system, which was introduced in a single reference two years ago but hasn’t diffused any further within the brand’s portfolio of movements. The omission is curious, but doesn’t take away from the fact that modern Omega movements are among the most advanced in the industry in terms of materials and performance.

The cal. 9900 with the standard finish

Prices range from US$15,700 for the standard DSOTM to US$16,100 for the Black Editions with the choice of automatic or manual movements, and US$16,400 for the cal. 3869-powered GSOTM.

This pricing is probably more than what many expect for a Speedmaster, and positions these new models head-to-head with serious competition from the likes of Zenith, which is also still trading on its achievements from 1969. The materials and high-spec movements justify the price somewhat, though it’s hard to argue these are strong value propositions.

True to the original

The two automatic cal. 9900-powered variants stick closely to the winning formula of the original DSOTM from 2013, with an integrated vertical clutch chronograph read from a co-axial register at three o’clock for elapsed minutes and hours, and a discrete date window at six.

The self-winding versions, standard (left), and Black Edition

The Black Edition, arguably the more interesting of the pair, is just what it sounds like, with a fully matte black dial and matching hands. Even the movement, along with its engravings, is finishing with a black coating. The fad for all-black watches is probably on the downslope, but that hasn’t stopped Omega from executing on this theme at a very high level.

The cal. 9900 in Black Edition finish

The no-frills hand wind

For those looking for something a little slimmer, the DSOTM is also available with the manually wound cal. 9908 for the first time.

Originally developed for the multi-scale Chronoscope, the cal. 9908 deletes the automatic winding system and date window for a more appealing 13 mm case height. Visually, the manually wound DSOTM is distinguished by its triangular red chronograph seconds hand, a throwback to historical Speedmaster models, which is not lumed at the tip like the others, and matching red Speedmaster wordmark.

Though manually wound, the movement should not be confused with the cal. 3869, adapted from the cal. 3861 in the updated Speedmaster Professional, used by the GSOTM.

The cal. 9908 is different animal, with the same vertical clutch, column wheel format of its automatic siblings, which explains the comparatively plain look through the case back. The thinner profile should please most skeptics, even though it’s not especially thin in an absolute sense and remains thicker than some other ceramic automatic chronographs.

The grey side

The grey version is a very different product that departs from the traditional DSOTM format both visually and technically. The most obvious difference relates to the dial, which instead of being a smooth disc of black ceramic, is a high-fidelity laser-ablated representation of the surface of the moon, first seen in 2018.

The textured matte grey dial is impressively detailed and gives the watch a distinct character unlike anything else. The lunar theme may be too obvious for some, but it suits the Speedmaster.

The dial is also partially open worked to reveal a bit of the movement. A more traditional construction, the cal. 3869 features a horizontal clutch and cam-operated switching, just like the long-lived cal. 861 that supported astronauts for decades.

The lunar theme continues on the back, with plates and bridges ablated to resemble the surface of the moon. Even the lower bridge that secures the Co-Axial escapement is finished in the same way, revealing thoughtful attention to detail.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon
Ref. 310.92.44.51.01.004

Diameter: 44.25 mm
Height: 15.09 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 9900
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, Co-Axial escapement, chronograph and resistant to magnetism of up to 15,000 Gauss
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Rubber or nylon strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$15,700 excluding taxes

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Black Edition
Ref. 310.92.44.51.01.005

Diameter: 44.25 mm
Height: 15.09 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 9900 Black Edition
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, Co-Axial escapement, chronograph and resistant to magnetism of up to 15,000 Gauss
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Rubber or nylon strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$16,100 excluding taxes

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Black Edition Manual-Winding
Ref. 310.92.44.51.01.001

Diameter: 44.25 mm
Height: 13.02 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 9908 Black Edition
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, Co-Axial escapement, chronograph and resistant to magnetism of up to 15,000 Gauss
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Rubber or nylon strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$16,100 excluding taxes

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Grey Side of the Moon”
Ref. 310.92.44.50.06.002

Diameter: 44.25 mm
Height: 12.97 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3869
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, Co-Axial escapement, chronograph and resistant to magnetism of up to 15,000 Gauss
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Rubber or nylon strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$16,400 excluding taxes

For more, visit Omegawatches.com.