Ming has unveiled the Polymesh strap, described by the brand as the world’s first 3D-printed titanium watch bracelet. Blurring the line between bracelet and strap, it’s comprised of 1,693 articulating grade 5 titanium components. Designed to fit any Ming case with 20 mm lugs, the Polymesh strap reflects the brand’s growing ambitions.

Initial thoughts

The Polymesh strap illustrates the important function that independent brands like Ming play in the watchmaking ecosystem; they can explore concepts that big brands cannot. Large industrial brands are, to some extent, locked in a cage of their own making. On one hand, they have scale and distribution, but on the other, any innovation must be tested exhaustively to ensure it won’t complicate service channels.

Ming exists in a sweet spot, with enough market traction to confidently invest in the development of new ideas, and the nimble size to take decisive action. In this context, it’s not surprising to see the first 3D-printed wristwatch bracelet come from a brand like Ming rather than an industrial powerhouse like Rolex or the Swatch Group.

The concept itself is inherently interesting. It might be called a bracelet or a strap, but regardless of the nomenclature, it’s intended to offer both the dense, draping feel of a bracelet with the supple flexibility of a strap, made possible through additive manufacturing. As with any truly novel concept, the Polymesh strap likely needs to be experienced firsthand to be fully understood, something I hope to do in the coming days.

The Polymesh strap fits any Ming watch with 20 mm lugs, and is priced at CHF1,500 excluding taxes. That’s either a lot of money for a strap or a decent value for an interesting bracelet, depending on one’s perspective – I’d say it’s the latter.

The first 3D-printed watch bracelet

The bracelet itself is made of grade 5 titanium, sintered from microscopic beads of titanium powder – a laser essentially melts the beads to form the parts. The additive manufacturing process eliminates pins and screws, printing each link in a closed loop, capturing the adjacent link. After several hundred layers of titanium are printed, a process that takes several hours for each bracelet, some manual finishing takes place to remove burrs and install the quick-release spring bars – the only part of the assembly that isn’t 3D printed.

Even the clasp and buckle are formed as a unit with the bracelet. In total, there are 1,693 articulating components including the triangular ‘links’ and the buckle. The production involved ProMotion and Sisma, Swiss and Italian specialists respectively, in chain making, laser welding, and additive manufacturing.

Sisma, which specialises in 3D printing and laser forming, has demonstrated 3D-printed articulating closed-loop bracelets for a few years, though it sounds like the ability to work with powdered titanium is a more recent development.

Key facts and price

Ming Polymesh

Compatibility: Any Ming watch with 20 mm lugs
Material: Grade 5 titanium

Availability: Pre-order available now at Ming online boutique
Price: CHF1,500 excluding taxes

For more, visit ming.watch