Grand Seiko Goes Gold
Japan-only Spring Drives on solid gold bracelets.
Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold, respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 grams.
SLGA030 in rose gold.
Initial Thoughts
While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 45KS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements.
Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor.
The outgoing models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362.
Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins being what they are, a gold bracelet can easily double the price of a gold watch. Even so, Grand Seiko evidently sells enough of these to justify the renewal of the line, which is in some ways the brand’s answer to the Rolex Day-Date.
I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. The 40 mm case is 12.1 mm thick, contributing to a substantial curb weight of almost 200 g.
The cal. 9RA2 movement is slimmer than the outgoing model, reducing the height marginally, and runs for five days, up from three, and relocates the power reserve to the case back. It also adds active temperature compensation within a vacuum-sealed timing package. While nominally rated to +/-10 seconds per month, this is largely the same technology behind the “UFA” models rated to 20 seconds per year.
Inside the quartz timing package showing the integrated circuit and tuning fork.
The dials are simple, sunburst affairs that wouldn’t look out of place on an entry level Grand Seiko model. The dial of the yellow gold model is little changed, except for the power reserve indicator that’s been relocated to the back. The white gold model now wears an ice blue gradiated sunray dial, with a heat-greyed seconds hand, while the rose gold model has a warm brown gradient dial.
The SLGA028 in yellow gold.
It is also worth mentioning another version, the off-catalogue SLGA032 in rose gold with a stormy grey dial, covertly launched earlier this year. In comparison, these dials are tantalisingly subtle given the underlying substance, making each watch something of a sleeper.
The off-catalog SLGA032 in rose gold.
Unfortunately, Grand Seiko charges a sizable premium for precious metal, even compared to other luxury brands. The yellow gold SLGA028 and rose gold SLGA030 are priced equivalent to approximately US$54,000, while the white gold SLGA027 costs approximately US$60,000, making it more than US$10,000 more expensive than an equivalent 40 mm Rolex Day-Date in the same metal.
The heavyweight Grand Seiko
The solid gold bracelets are most interesting aspect of these watches. While its jewellery-focused sister brand Credor has about two dozen watches on gold bracelets in its current catalogue, Grand Seiko only has five – these three along with two cal. 9F quartz models.
SLGA027 in white gold.
Grand Seiko outsourced the previous generation’s gold bracelets to a certain supplier in northern Italy, whose client list also includes Jaeger-LeCoultre and Girard-Perregaux. The difference is slight, but noticeable. The links are subtly rounder than normal Grand Seiko bracelets, and it uses a butterfly clasp rather than the usual fold-over – traits that carry over to this generation.
The cases have changed little, still part of the modern “44GS” design language, actually based on the 45KS, with ample tin-plate polishing and a reassuring 100 m of water resistance, though without a screw-down crown.
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 9RA2-0AJ0
Ref. SLGA027 (white gold)
Ref. SLGA028 (yellow gold)
Ref. SLGA030 (rose gold)
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: 18k gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: Cal. 9RA2
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and power reserve on the movement side
Frequency: 32,768 Hz
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 5 days
Strap: Matching 18k gold bracelet with butterfly clasp
Limited edition: No
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers in Japan starting October 2025
Price: Approximately US$60,000 (white gold), US$54,000 (yellow and rose gold) before taxes
For more, visit Grand-seiko.com.
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