The reborn Gérald Genta has just unveils a simply-titled complicated watch, the Minute Repeater. Although a new design, the striking timepiece harks back to Gérald Genta’s golden age in the late 20th century, in both style and quality of execution.

The case takes a clean, cushion-shaped form, while the dial is glossy black onyx. And inside ticks the GG-002, a hand-wind movement derived from the longstanding repeater movement made by Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the parent of Gérald Genta. Though not a limited edition, the yearly output will be limited to 10 pieces.

Initial thoughts

Big-name brand revivals are not always successful endeavours, since it is often difficult for new patrons to recapture the spirit and style of the original, while also making it financially viable. Gérald Genta is clearly an exception. It was relaunched in 2023 by Louis Vuitton, allowing it to lean more towards genuine quality rather than a flash in the pan. 

The Minute Repeater is a welcome and original addition to the brand’s collection, embodying the late Genta’s instinctive design flair and aesthetic sensibilities, while being a new(ish) design. An especially pleasant surprise is the original case shape that certainly looks very Gérald Genta, but wasn’t previously in the catalogue, though Genta did pen similar cases in the past. In other words, this is not a remake.

The shape sits between an ellipse and a rounded rectangle, capturing the gist of the 1970s design well. The simple black onyx dial is overwhelmingly simple yet full of Genta-inspired details.

The repeater complication itself was dear to watch designer, who launched several models with the complication in the 1980s and 1990s. An all-new minute repeater collection is thus a fitting tribute to Genta.

The brand relied on in-house movements in the 1980s and 1990s, and so does the new repeater; it’s the complete package with the GG-002 inside. Manufactured by LFT, the minute repeating caliber features subtle design cues of traditional calibres and bears all the marks of a highly quality movement. (Ironically, LVMH does own the rights to the 1990s Gérald Genta movements, but those are now used by Bulgari, which once owned the brand.)

While the price is undisclosed, the Minute Repeater will probably cost in excess of CHF300,000 based on comparable models made by LFT. It’s definitely at the upper limit of the price range for such watches but regardless, the unique pedigree, elegant style, and excellent execution chime in its favour.

An original but inspired case

The late Genta left behind some 3,000 original drawings for watches, were are now owned by Gérald Genta and LFT, putting them at the disposal of the brand’s design team led by Mathieu Hegi. As a result, the case shape of the Minute Repeater is original, but clearly infused with Genta’s DNA. 

The exact shape is difficult to pinpoint. It is reminiscent of both the Patek Philippe Ellipse and Nautilus — the latter having been designed by Genta himself. The Minute Repeater’s case is both rounder than the Nautilus and less elongated compared to the Ellipse, not to mention it features Genta’s own whimsical design cues, all which give the case an appealing and familiar identity. 

The polished bezel is double-lipped, or double pomme in Gérald Genta terms. Connecting the gold case to the strap are a pair of short Vendôme lugs. While in his work for other brands Genta employed fairly conventional lug designs, he preferred integrated lugs like these for his own watches.  

Such a particular lug design hinders the owner’s ability to easily swap straps, the choice is true to the brand’s identity and the style it seeks to recreate.

At 40 mm in diameter and 9.6 mm in thickness, the piece sits firmly in the dress watch category, so the black leather strap is sufficient and appropriate (though maybe not funky enough for social media).

One final touch which completes the case is the domed black onyx cabochon on the slim crown. The elegance of the cabochon cannot be overstated and while most enthusiasts associate the jewelled crown with Cartier, it was also a defining trait of many original Genta pieces. 

There is however one gripe concerning the crown: it’s slimness might prove frustrating when it comes to winding the movement. While the deep groves might provide sufficient grip, winding a narrow, small crown is always a chore.

Plain yet soulful

The dial is perhaps the most visually defining trait of any timepiece, since it dominates the watch face. Here the choice was for a striking black onyx piece, which contrasts well with the gold case. The dial shape follows the case while also incorporating a round outline for the minute track. 

The choice for onyx instead of enamel is surprising, since the latter craft has experienced a surge in interest from both independent and mainstream brands. Genta himself was known to frequently favour mineral stone or shell dials, so the onyx dial plate is fitting. 

The slim gold indices evoke Genta’s work for Patek Philippe — the double indices at  12 o’clock are especially suggestive of the Nautilus dial design. The choice for simple and polished hands is suitable and further evokes the late ‘70s trends. The white markings are done in Genta’s characteristic typeface. 

The qualitative movement 

The movement here is a simpler version of the GG-001, which powered the Gérald Genta Mickey Mouse “Only Watch 2023″, a minute repeater with jumping hours. 

The GG-002, at its core a LFT construction, fills the case nicely. LFT is led by its founders Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both veterans of the original Genta brand. The two master watchmakers worked under Pierre-Michel Golay in developing some of the most impressive and demanding complications for Gérald Genta. 

Today the watchmaking pair develop movements mainly for Louis Vuitton and the brands it owns, along with a handful of boutique brands. When it comes to preserving Gérald Genta’s legacy for qualitative and complicated movements, Navas and Barbasini are as good stewards as they come. 

The GG-002 itself is a very modern construction, yet it looks pocket-watch like. The core architecture is decidedly classical, with the large center wheel displayed prominently, the visible going train components and the large barrel with its blade click. 

On the case back side the sounding works are hidden, save for the two black polished steel hammers and the governor. Particular to the Gérald Genta-version of this movement is the clear sapphire governor bridge, which is framed by an octagonal ring —a nod to Gérald Genta’s own extensive use of the shape in other watches.

The movement sounds the time to the minute via the two hammers when the slider is activated. Although modern in its construction, the GG-002 is not an advanced repeater movement, but rather a classical one of very high quality, as it can be observed from the tidy finishing and solid construction. 

The free-sprung balance beats at a languid 3 Hz — not unusual for classically inspired movements. The flat hairspring’s secured by a Geneva stud carrier and the entire watch is regulated to six positions — very uncommon even for modern-day chronometers from the likes of Rolex or Omega. The GG-002 achieves a comfortable 80 hour power reserve from the single large barrel. 

While the finishing looks impeccable, at close scrutiny one can tell it was mostly machine-applied, with final touches made by hand. The Geneva stripes are consistent across the bridges and the main plate is fully covered in perlage. The hand-bevelled anglage on the bridges and black polished steel parts are artful touches, although as a whole the decoration of the GG-002 doesn’t have the artisanal refinement found in calibres from the likes of Voutilainen.

Key facts and price

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater
Ref. EBFE01A1

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 9.6 mm
Material: Yellow gold 3N
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Unspecified, probably only dust and moisture resistant

Movement: GG-002
Functions: Two-hammer minute repeater, hours, minutes
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hours (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Sheep leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: No, but only 10 pieces will be made each year
Availability: Directly from Gérald Genta
Price: Upon request

For more information, visit geraldgenta.com.